1968 Ford Mustang

Coupe

inline 6

Manual

8F01T112195

Clear

BIDDERS WITH LESS THAN 10 FEEDBACKS, PLEASE EMAIL BEFORE BIDDING. YOUR BID IS A BINDING CONTRACT... THIS IS NOT A GAME AND ABUSES WILL BE REPORTED. A $250 DEPOSIT THRU PAYPAL IS DUE WITHIN 48 HOURS OF LISTING CLOSE, AND THE BALANCE IS DUE IN CASH AT PICKUP. $1 NO RESERVE PICKUP/DELIVERY: Our farm has good access for semi trucks and we are just 3 miles from the Interstate. I can bring it to central Missouri in August, and central Nebraska any time, for 75 cents per loaded mile. Also I will consider eastern Colorado, western Ks, and western Nebraska. Talk to me if you are interested. 1968 Mustang coupe, original pale yellow car with black interior, now repainted burgandy. This car is a good builder, great for a muscle-era project. Mustangs are a very recognizable collector car, with a huge following of reproduction and replacement parts available. There are many competing suppliers, so prices are very reasonable. It has sat in a farm shed many years, and still had the old, old bias ply tires and original hubcaps on it when we picked it up. The pedals show almost no wear, but I have no guess if the mileage is 59,000 or if it has rolled already. The engine looks like it was parked running. Everything is clean and unmolested. My guess is they hit something in the front end and never got around to repairing it. I had planned to go out and start the car, but the water pump is very stiff and the belt just slips, so I didn't go any further. The crank turns free, and my guess would be this car could run in a weekend of work, but I can't guarantee anything about it. It was last registered in the late 80s. It is a manual steering, manual brake, non-A/C, 4 lug car. I have a 69 Cougar with a 9 inch rear I would sell separately. I will give as complete a description of the body as possible, every nickel and dime detail, so there are no surprises. I have looked this car over and it really is above average and very restorable. Many of the rusted areas are very minor and will require simple patches that could be easily fabricated, rather than cutting out an entire panel. I've written a lot, to help you be as informed as possible. This car is complete except front bumper and radiator, and has been lightly hit in the front. Every part to repair it is available new. The front subframe structure is unhurt, the car will just need cosmetic sheetmetal replaced. The core support has a few ripples, which could be straightened or you could just replace it, it could go either way. It has a good body, but needs the front torque boxes replaced and the driver's floor and quarters replaced. A new front torque box is only $55 each side. The other three floor pans need minor patches for a few pinholes. The front lower core support and the driver's subframe rail have small rust through, but the places where the strut rods mount are fine. Each of these places are flat metal or 90 degree bends, so they would be simple to patch without having to replace the entire panel. The rear trunk area directly below the driver's taillight has rust where the rear bumper bolts go through, but the subframe rail is fine, the only rust is in the trunk floor and bumper mount area. The rear torque boxes and rear subframe rails are fine. On the tail end of the front subframe rail, by the driver's floor pan, it has a rustout a couple inches long that would be a simple flat patch. The battery apron is rusted through, typical for these cars. The inner fender aprons where the hood hinges mount have small rust holes, and they have had the anchor nuts for the hood hinges pulled out, and thus will need repaired or replaced. Both quarters and outer wheelhouse panels will need replaced, but I have a new passenger side quarter skin that is included with the car. The front floor pan on the driver's side is rusted out. The driver's door may need a small patch in the door, there is a half dollar sized surface rust spot but can't tell if it is rusted through without grinding the paint off. It never had a vinyl top, so the roof is rustfree, but has a few dings that will need smoothed out. The glass is all good, but the doors have been partially dismantled in the inside, they would need the regulators reassembled. The hood and trunk lid have dents and wrinkles, if I were restoring the car I would replace them. Overall the body needs the most attention, but it would be a doable project since so much is available new. My opinion is that the car is worth fixing, because the major structural areas are still sound. The interior is mostly complete and original, and really only needs carpet to be a presentable driver. The headliner, door panels, and seats are still useable with no major wear. The last owner had the front buckets reupholstered with cloth inserts. The data tag reads BODY 65A, COLOR W, TRIM 2A, DATE 15J, DSO 53, AXLE 6, TRANS 1. It has a title, and after purchasing the car I will need your information to fill in on the title. I'll be happy to add any extra pictures or check out certain areas for you. On Jul-03-13 at 19:28:24 PDT, seller added the following information: ***********This car has the set of keys with it.************On Jul-05-13 at 16:54:12 PDT, seller added the following information: I can bring this car to Oklahoma City for $150, or to Dallas for $250.