1966 Ford Mustang

Convertible

C-Code 289 V-8

5-Speed Manual

Clear

Gasoline

No one has any time to waste these days, so as with all my transactions, I’m going to be completely honest and give you all the plusses and minuses on this car. By doing so, I hope to avoid wasting that valuable time of yours (and mine) in that from the following description you will be able to tell if this is the car for you. It also means that my opening bid is firm, and firm is firm, and so I am not looking to dicker, haggle, horsetrade, and no, I will not consider barter, so please don’t offer me high-end video equipment that I could sell for double that price, and yes, someone did actually make this offer on an item I had for sale. Regarding my starting price, it is what I think is fair for a straight running convertible being offered by a completely trustworthy bloke like myself - one who has a feedback rating of 100% and a 10-year history of Ebay sales - so to that fellow with the bee in his bonnet, please don't send me any of your cracker-barrel comments of "are you nuts?" and "why I saw the same car in Pixley for half that." Trust and security is worth something these days, I should think, and if you don't believe that, just ask the buyers who have have paid $20,000 to receive a car not worth $2,000. In brief, you can be certain that with your winning bid you are going to get the exact car that is described. Finally, before moving on, I should like to add that when you’re selling a car people seem to need to ask, ‘Why are you selling it,’ and certainly, they expect more than an answer of ‘because I don’t want it.’ Not wanting something? Heavens, that just seems plain un-American, doesn't it? Anyway, I don't, and yet I shall also give you the more informative answers of a) I won’t have time to take it out for the rest of the summer, which leads to b) next year I want to go older, perhaps a 1950s two-seater. Acceptable? Good, because having said that, we shall now proceed to the general description. THE GENERAL DESCRIPTION This is a non-matching numbers 1966 Ford Mustang 5-Speed Manual Drive 289 V8 C-Code Automobile that began its life as a 1966 Ford Mustang 6-Cylinder Automatic. Since its rebuild in 1999, I have run it for approximately 125,000 miles, but I cannot give am accurate mileage of the car in that I had to replace the odometer at about the 3-year mark and now canot recall what the old odometer read. Simply put, 46 years of existence will put a lot of miles on a chassis. It is Raven Black with white interior, which was not a color correct combination in 1966, but is damn sharp. The car is a good candidate for a running restoration in that while in need of repair, it is fully drivable. The engine does not burn any oil (no blue smoke on start-up), the 2-barrel carberurator (from Pony Carbs) is in fine condition having been replaced about 5 years ago, the transmission/clutch does not slip, the brakes are good, and the only thing that needs to be repaired to keep it running is the electrical, the condition of which I will describe in the pertinent section. As noted above, this convertible is STRAIGHT, and anyone who knows vintage convertibles knows that this is just about their most important asset. Regarding this point, about a year after I purchased the car, I had tubular subconnectors welded into the chassis, and it is these subconnectors that prevent the unibody from flexing. ENGINE As already noted, this is a 289 V-8 200 h.p. C-code Ford engine not to original to chassis. I do recall that at one point I had removed the valve covers and saw they were stamped 309, and that is all I can say about it in regards to its originality/authenticity. I know the engine was freshly rebuilt when I purchased the automobile, and as I said, since then I have put approximately 125,000 miles on it. It’s in solid condition and I suspect it will still be running long after I am not. That’s the way they made them in those days. The one minus I have to list is a repair I had to make to the block at the thermostat housing. A few years back, while replacing the thermostat, one of the bolt housings split the area of the block around the thread. Using some JB weld compound, I was able to repair the thread and rebolt the thermostat housing. This makeshift patch has held fast since then – I have even changed the thermostat again without issue – but if a buyer were to fully restore this auto, I’d suggest the split be professionally welded. TRANSMISSION and CLUTCH When I purchased the car in 1999, it had been converted to a 3-Speed, and sometime around 2002/3, I dropped a 1990’s era Ford T-5 Transmission (I seem to recall it was a '93 T%) with a Tri-Ax shifter into it. As Mustang enthusiasts know, automatic Mustangs were fitted with 4-lug wheels/axles while manuals were fitted with 5-lug, and this autmobile was indeed converted to a 5-lug. When we did the 5-speed conversion, we also used the correct kit for the crossmember, linkage, etc. The overdrive works great and at speeds of over 60 mph, one can expect to get 18 MPG, though at one point I had the timing set so perfectly that I was getting 24 MPG. At lower speeds, this car gets about 14 MPG. The clutch is in great condition, but for the last five few years I have been hearing an unusual chatter when in neutral. It does not affect the performance or driveability of the car, but I suspect it is not the transmission nor clutch but the flywheel. Perhaps it is a bit unbalanced? To be honest, when I first started hearing it, I always expected something to ‘go’ but it never has, and so I never bothered to look. BRAKES I had front disk brakes installed about a year after purchase. I just didn’t like the drums, which are still on the back. Currently, the brake pads are good, but I think they will need to be replaced in the not-too-distant future. Maybe a year? Well, that’s brakes for you. Usual to Mustangs, the parking brake is not perfect in that if you are in neutral, you have to pull it all the way out to keep it from rolling on even the slightest incline. If you park a lot in a hilly area, you’d want to get this fixed. But again, it’s a common problem with 60s Mustangs, and a year later, it’ll probably be doing the same thing. ELECTRICAL It’s a Ford Mustang. Do I even have to go into this? Okay, I will. My current problem is with the ignition and particularly the solenoid. I’ve replaced it, checked the wiring, checked the grounds, and still it’s temperamental. Sometimes the car starts right up and other times I have to tap the solenoid with a wrench to get it to turn over. The Interstate battery and the alternator are fine, but the battery does need to be charged up to full right now. I just haven't had the time to take it out for a long drive to do that. And the voltage regulator . . . ? I don’t know. I’ve tried three diffent VRs and I can’t tell if any, none, or all of them are problematic. I replaced all the wiring in the engine compartment and rear, but the underdash has always been a project I’ve been meaning to undertake. Yes, it works. Yes, it is a mess. Yes, it should be replaced. Any vintage car buff can do this job himself provided he has patience, $500 for the loom, and the stamina to be upside down in a cramped space for an entire weekend. I’ve also diagnosed a problem with the horn in that one of the springs under the contact post has broken, so the horn is not operational. I tried fabricating a post to no avail - it would just not stay in place – so I fear the wiring harness might have to be replaced, which means it needs a $135 part just to replace a 2-cent piece of metal. Stinks, but there it is. What else? I replaced the old ignition system with electronic (no points) and a hi-power Mallory coil. Headlights, brakelights, and blinkers work, back-up lights do not. I suspect a short in the harness that runs from the gearbox to back, but I haven’t had time to look at it. There is no cigar lighter. You shouldn't be smoking, anyway. If I gave it up, so can you. Lucky Strike. I used to smoke Lucky Strike, and they went well with the car. God, I miss smoking. HEATING/COOLING 3-core radiator installed 2 summers ago. Works great. Drove car in 90 degree temps and needle doesn’t go over halfway point – approx 195 degrees. Heater blows hot. Defroster is . . . again, it’s a vintage Mustang. Defroster works as much as it did in 66. No air-conditioning. WIPERS One-speed and they go back and forth. Iacocca was a genius, wasn't he? No washers but kit available if you want to install them. BODY Not horrible but could use a paint job at some point. A lot of scratches and dings, including a long one on the passenger side. I’ve included a shot of just about the worst of the rust around the wheel-wells. No MAJOR rot to speak of. Is there fiberglass in some spots? Of course. The car is 46-years-old with the original metal - there's going to be fiberglass. TORQUE BOXESI got under there and they seem like they're still in solid condition. I've included a picture, and that's the one that doesn't look like anything and to which you're asking yourself, "What is that a picture of?" TOP In good condition with one small hole on driver's side rear. Fix it with a kit if it bothers you. Again, with the car being perfectly straight, it lines right up with the catches. Needs a new boot cover. TIRES Needs two front and an alignment. Two rear and spare OK. Steel wheel rims (no caps or spinners). Can’t recall the make off the top of my head. Need to be cleaned desperately. All four are straight. SUSPENSION Haven't had it professionally checked on the lift, but yeah, the front end going to need to be tackled. Can't tell you what's good and what's bad. Probably needs the whole shebang. I did have new rear leafs installed about 10 years ago. INTERIOR Could use one – carpet, seats, panels. It's not horrible, just not great. No center console. All windows work but driver rear handle needs to be screwed back on as the small screws keep coming loose and then breaking when I tighten them. (lousy Chinese metal) RADIO I installed a Custom Sound USA radio/mp3 player. Hook up your Ipod/Phone and tune out your wife. I also installed a power amp in the trunk. Have to find the documentation, but I seem to recall it being 350 watts. Anyway, it’s loud. Can’t remember the speakers I installed, but I do remember buying a set rated for the amp. Unfortunately, the wiring has worked itself loose on 3 of them and now have to be rewired: the two front and one in the passenger door. Another job I have’t got around to and that’s reflected in the opening bid. It does need an antenna. Who listens to the radio, anyway? AND NOW TO CONCLUDE TODAY'S PROGRAMWell, I think that just about covers it, dear bidders. I’ve listed the plusses and minuses and it’s time for you to consider whether it’s worth the opening bid of $8,250, which, I should mention, is still firm. Really, I hate to come across as a jerk, but my time is EXTREMELY limited right now, as I’m sure yours is, so if you're in the NY Metropolitan area and ask to see it, please be comfortable with that price. I’m available only on Saturday and Sunday, mornings preferable. Winning bidder will have to make all arrangements to ship or otherwise transport this car. As to payment, I have had close friends rip me off, so please understand that when dealing with strangers, I have to have stringent controls in place. Transfer of ownership will only be completed after payment clears ALL INSTITUTIONS, and this can take up to 30 days. Cash from a local high-bidder will, of course, be acceptable, but will only be accepted during banking hours so that I can go to to the bank to make sure it’s the legitimate (There is a lot of fake stuff going around as of late.)