1966 Ford Fairlane

6A40S179535

Clear

1966 Ford Fairlane GT S-Code 390, Factory 4 speed. Now equipped with center oiler 427. As you can see in the pictures, this car has spent some time going fast and straight. It's spent most of it's life in The Chicago land area. It's got a Bunker Hill sticker on it as well as some other stickers. At some point someone really wanted to make this into a serious streetable race car. It currently has a roll cage, slicks and drag rear end. It's got the fuel line and rear battery and battery switch for it. All of which works. This car can easily be switched back over to a street only car. Whoever did the racing back in the day looks like they made sure that things could be reversed back. The roll cage is only bolt in. The rear could be swapped back out. The original tail light put back in and the battery moved back to the front. Quite honestly, if you got the parts ahead of time and with some planning, you could probably freshen up and get the interior mostly back to original during a long weekend. This is really a solid, solid car. The ONLY body issues that I've been able to find are as follows: small older rust hole in the passenger floor board. It's been patched at some point. Maybe the size of your palm. If you look with a flash light down into the driver side trunk drop off from inside the trunk you can see where the quarter was patched You can't tell from the outside. Maybe I've missed something somewhere on the body, but this car is super, super solid. The rear wheel lips have been rolled to fit those fat slicks in the back. The body is currently in primer and is pretty darn straight. The hood is set up for pins, but, as you can see in the pictures, it comes with an original GT Fairlane hood. These are harder to find. It's not in the best shape with some rust in the corners and on the bottom, BUT, it's been worth hanging on to, as I said, I don’t see them very often. Now, let's get down to what's under the hood. It's a real FE427 engine. I've taken pictures of just above the oil pan so you can see the 3 cross bolts. Let me just go ahead and say. I don't know a lot about the engine or the car. I didn't build it. I don't have all the answers, but, it is an authentic 427. The block casting numbers are: C3AE - AB. It’s a 1963 427 center Oiler block.This engine is FULL of power. Has a C6 trans I will do my best to answer any and all questions in regards to the motor. I can take more pictures if you would like, as well. I have a few videos of the car running, driving and stopping so you can see what you're getting. The VIN is the same on the door tag and the stamping on the radiator support.VIN BREAKDOWN: 6A40S179535 6 - 1966A - ATLANTA40 - FAIRLANE 500GT/2 DOOR HARDTOPS - S CODE 390 GT179535 - PRODUCTION NUMBER This is a project car that's at a really great spot for someone to take it one way or another. You could easily take the 427 out, sell it or put it in someone thing else, and toss a 390 and 4 speed back in and take the car to original. You could also just clean up the car some, put some fresh paint on and have a one of a kind weekend race car that will turn some heads. There are a lot of extra parts that come with the car as you can see. Many original pieces like emblems, light bezels, etc. In the picture you will see an original upper back seat. In the box that it's sitting on is the bottom portion of the back seat. In the car, still under the dash, is the original clutch pedal assembly. Yes, this is a real S-code 390 GT Fairlane 500 car. I've included the VIN in the listing AND a picture of the vin to confirm. I purchased this car with a ton of extra parts and engines. We are hanging on to the other stuff and are selling this car. Please know I've tried to describe this Fairlane to the best of my ability. I'm more than happy to try to answer any questions as best I can. I am more than happy to take more pictures and get more info you at your request. This is a neat car and it needs a great home! Car is located in Montgomery, AL. $500 deposit due withint 24 hours of end of auction. Extremely reasonable reserve has been set. Don't be afraid to bid! True mileage is unknown and exempt. No title. eBay requires you to pick something out and I picked "clear." Please do not take that as accurate. Balance is due within 7 days. I'm more than happy to hold the car until you can come get it or arrange for pick up. On Jan-05-18 at 17:02:43 PST, seller added the following information: ***UPDATE***1/5/18: The title has been located. I knew before I listed the car, that I had it somewhere but I could't locate it. While making the initial listing, I had to be fair and list it as "no title", but, I do have it. It's from the last owner who owned it in the late 80's. Thank you!On Jan-06-18 at 08:42:03 PST, seller added the following information: ***UPDATE***1/6/18: You guys are asking a lot of great questions. I'm happy to answer them as best as I can. One question was if they car had any body filler. A close friend and I purchased this car a year or two ago with an entire lot of parts. I hung onto a few FE engine parts for myself and this car and my buddy took the entire parts lot. With that said, I didn't do anything to the car except made sure it would run and drive around. I don't know what's under the primer and can't guarantee any of that. There are a few places on the car where the primer is flaking off. I think it's been on there a long time. CASTING NUMBERS:Heads: C3AE-609DIntake: C6AE-9425-HBlock: C3AE-6015-AB Thanks!On Jan-06-18 at 12:10:20 PST, seller added the following information: ***UPDATE***1/6/18: Attached are two videos. I apologize for the quality and lack of attention to detail. The first is a quick drive-by video just to show that the car does crank, go into gear, move on it's on power and stop. I would NOT recommend street driving this car, driving it home or racing it until you have THOROUGHLY gone through all aspects of safety. The second video is of a walk-around of the car. Thanks! Drive By: https://youtu.be/bkWryTXPzKw Walk-Around: https://youtu.be/bkWryTXPzKwOn Jan-09-18 at 14:43:19 PST, seller added the following information: ***UPDATE***1/9/18: You guys are still sending some great questions. Once again, I'm trying to do my very best to be as up front and honest as possible. With that said, I missed a couple of spots that are important to know. I don't want anyone to think I'm trying to pull one over on someone. If I were, I wouldn't be constantly making updates. Let first say, these pictures I'm adding of the rust issues are zoomed in SUPER close and, therefore, make it look far worse than it is. - I did note the smaller rust hole in the floor board that seemed to have been patched at some point, albeit, not the greatest patch. - I mentioned the left rear trunk drop-off down at the bottom. While you can't see it from the outside of the car, you can see it from underneath while on your back looking up under the car. Upon further inspection of this spot, it seems to be our belief that this isn't necessarily from any sort of rust, but a prior tire blowout with the way the metal is sort of "ripped" in that spot. - The frame rails: the frame rails are solid and rust free except for one spot on each side that is directly in between the shackles. Clearly, these shackles may have been overtightened and with each hard launch this car made, little by little cracked the frame rail. I would recommend taking off that stuff and simply patching in that section of frame rail and/or strengthening it with some sort of extra steel. - We took a magnet up and down the entire car in 60+ places and couldn't get it to fall off. That's in no way guaranteed that there's not filler underneath, but, we just wanted to be clear that we're trying to do our due diligence for everyone. Let me be clear again: For it's age and compared to many, this car is super solid and I still wouldn't shy away from it with these issues. They can absolutely be repaired. Let me also say, again that, the pictures of these issues underneath are with the camera zoomed in VERY close. They do not look that bad in person.