1937 Ford Other

Cab & Chassis

21 stud flathead V8 85hp

Manual

3625768

Clear

Gasoline

Start Price Lowered !This is as Low as I Can Go or it does me No Good to sell it !1937 Ford Truck33,984 Actual Miles Frame Off amateur restoration 30+ years ago.Painted inside and out, top to bottom with Imron paint. I have a 14 minute YouTube 'walk-around' video of this at https://youtu.be/BaV1Ify033YI do have a clear title for this. I have never had any liens against it. Original Number-Matching 21 stud flathead V-8 professionally rebuilt in 1979 with less than 4,000 miles on it since then. Actually 3651 miles on the rebuild. It currently has 33,984 miles on it, up from the 30,333 actual miles it had when I bought it. The 221 cubic inch 85hp had already been rebuilt once before and had since seized up bad enough it required some major cylinder boring and the next over-size pistons were no longer available at the time so my Dad bored it to the 100hp Standard Bore at 239.4 cubic inches which is 1/8 inch or 0.125 over. Back in the 1950s they used to bore these blocks as much as 1/2 inch oversize so we still had plenty more to go later on if ever needed. It got a Total Rebuild with new pistons, rings, wrist-pin bushings, professional 3 angle valve job, carburetor rebuild, distributer rebuild, new fuel pump, starter and generator rebuilds, etc. The only thing it didn't get at the time was bearings as they had been replaced by one of the previous owners before it was allowed to set and seize up. I did however end up replacing the bearings a few years later (more on that farther down in the description). The 33 year old Imron paint job (painted in 1982) has some assorted chips, scratches, and spots beginning to bubble under the paint, but still very presentable as is. Original Mechanical Brakes checked out perfectly even on Safety Lane Inspection. Inspector told me at the time that hydraulic brakes don't ever check anywhere near as even as I had these adjusted to. Only has One Parking Brake hooked up though which is more than enough to hold it. I bought this truck in 39 years ago in 1976 at the ripe old age of 14, a year and a half before I had a drivers license, and spent the next few years rebuilding it with the help of my Dad who owned a repair shop in Dakota Illinois doing engine rebuilds for several of the local drag racers along with being one of the best automatic transmission rebuilders in the tri-state area. I tore it down to the frame removing nearly every nut and bolt along the way. About the only thing I didn't do was split the rear end, though I did pull the axle shafts. The rear leaf spring shackle pins are worn, but they too stayed in place. Other than that, I went through the mechanical brakes adjusting them in the drums and then on the linkage as per the motor manual instructions, and as previously noted, they came out working perfectly. Unlike the cars and smaller pickup trucks that used cables which would stretch when you got on the them hard, the larger trucks used 3/8 solid rods for the brake linkage. They do not give or stretch and work as good now as they did 30+ years ago when I adjusted them. While doing the front brakes we replaced the king pins in the steering linkage just because there was a new set laying on the shelf in the garage. I had the radiator boiled out and pressure tested even though these older vehicles have a Non-pressurized coolant system and installed two new thermostats. While I've heard hundreds of stories over the years about the flathead V8's overheating, with the Huge radiator and large 4 blade propeller of a fan blade my normal operating temperature has always been 160 degrees in town and would drop to 140 on the highway due to the higher airflow through the radiator. And that's with the 1/8th inch over-bore and larger pistons in the engine. The first two years I had this on the road, I was running it 60-65mph passing cars on the highway with it, and 900 miles later I ended up spinning a couple rod bearings which it only has 3 main bearings and 4 rod bearings with 'floating' bearings in the rods (one bearing on each Pair of rods) (not one of Henry's better ideas !) I ended up ruining the crank and 3 rods in the process and bought another parts truck just to get the parts needed. I had the crank ground and the rods resized and installed all new bearings. Then I checked the rear end gearing and found out it has a 6.66:1 gear ratio, which coupled with the 7.00-20 tires works out to 4,000rmp at 60mph and I had been pushing it to 65 and sometimes higher not knowing any better. Since then I have kept it in the 40-45mph range on the short trips I made to local car shows and to the Stephenson County Antique Engine Club's Steam Threshing Show every year where I now run the Sawmill for the past 15 years after spending 25+ years as an off-bearer on the other end of the mill. Have to keep in mind that this is an old FARM TRUCK and has the lowest of 3 possible gear sets available at the time. It is NOT an Interstate Cruiser with those rear end gears. During the rebuild in the late 1970s I had the generator rewired to put out a little more amperage, and since these have a cut-out instead of a voltage regulator I always drive it with the lights on to help balance out the current. The original ignition coil was very weak, so doing another old-school trick from the 50s & 60s I cut open the coil and hooked a wire to the center brush and ran it to a remote coil mounted on the driver side fender. I have since then picked up a NOS coil but never installed it. I only had one side piece and the upper center strip of the stainless grille trim at the time so I used some stick-on chrome fender well trim for that. I have since bought the crank hole trim piece for $78.00 and the other side piece with a couple small dings that need to be worked out yet, but never got around to installing them. The outside duals are both flat from setting for extended periods of time over the years and have both spun on the rims so they will need to be remounted and aired up again. I have the original seat springs for this but as they needed recovering and I had a decent set of bucket seats laying around at the time I made up a mounting platform and installed them instead of redoing the original. It will go with the truck though if you want it. The old gasket on the gas gage sending unit on the top of the tank was dry-rotted and seeped a little so I just always ran it with a 1/2 tank or less so it didn't slosh around against it quite so bad. If/when you have the seat recovered and change back to it from the buckets would be a good time to remove the sending unit and install a new gasket. Not a big deal, but I wanted to let everyone know about it. I'm sure I probably missed a few other details as I have only gotten the truck out and driven it a few times a year during the summer months and the rest of the time it's always packed away in a shed in the back yard, but if you have any questions please ask them early so I will hopefully have time to answer them for you. I no longer have Internet service at home and have to drive 5 miles to the Library to use their computers during their open hours so that limits the amount of time I can be on here fielding questions. The truck is Selling AS IS based on pictures and description. It received an amateur Frame Off Restoration over 30 years ago and is a 78 year old truck with almost 34,000 miles worth of wear and tear on it so I make No Guarantees on anything. Check out the pictures and video and decide for yourself. I have owned this truck for 39 years and hate to sell it but I'm at risk of losing my house and need to money to pay back taxes. As a result there is also a minimum amount I can let it go for which is why I am starting it where I am. I would HOPE you all like it as much as I do and that it goes much much higher, but I need to get it sold and paid for ASAP. I also can't afford to waste time dealing with scammers so I am adding the PayPal Requirement for bidding to hopefully cut down on that. If you want to bring cash and pay when you pick it up I will need that done ASAP as well, but please contact me first about bidding if you don't have a PayPal account and are still interested in it. I do my best to describe all items as accurately as possible and use the best pictures I can to show the actual condition so there should be no confusion as to what your are getting. Payment to be in U.S. Currency through PayPal or bring Cash in person when you come to pick it up. Again, I have this listed as PayPal Required for bidding. If you want to bid but don't have a PayPal account contact me about bidding but don't wait till the last minute to do so. With my Limited Internet access during Library Hours (and weather permitting) I could end up away from the computer for a couple days at a time though I will try my best to reply in a timely manor. YOU The Bidder are responsible for picking this up from my property. I Will NOT handle any shipping arrangements so Don't Waste Your Time or Mine offering X amount of dollars for me ship it or arrange for shipping. It is listed as LOCAL PICKUP ONLY ! Bring Your Own trailer or arrange for one on your own. If you're Local you can easily drive it home, but with the low gearing and stiff rear springs you may not want to drive any great distance. At least not on your first trip with it. I was hoping to be able to sell it back to the family members of the guy I bought it from and they are more than welcome to bid on it. I let them know it was going on here after waiting a week for the husband to return from California but I couldn't wait any longer and had to get it listed. If they are able to buy it I will gladly deliver it for them and give them some personal instruction in driving and maintaining it. But as she said on the phone, if they aren't able to get it, it 'wasn't meant to be'. Still hoping though. Thanks For Looking & Happy Bidding! Please also check out my other current and future listings as I get time to photograph and list more items. Never know what I might list next from 35-40+ years of collecting and hoarding anything and everything.