1970 Dodge Challenger

Coupe

225 cu. in. 6 Cylinder

Automatic

JH23B0B332731

Clear

Gasoline

Do you want to own a Dodge Challenger for a lot less than $30K? Here's one way: Buy a very restorable one for a lot less and make it $30K with sweat equity. This is a perfect candidate to make into a custom Foose-type Challenger. It's a non-AC car, so you could also make a racer out of it. The body of the car is totally clean. All the grunge is long gone. Totally different from buying a grungy, old, basket case Challenger and busting your sludged-up knuckles breaking loose all those rusted-together, sludge-covered parts. It's ready to pop onto the Rotisserie Stand to begin the sheetmetal work. Yes, of course, I have the title to the car. The VIN is JH23B0B332731. I included a photo of the fender tag with the VIN on it. I bought this 1970 Dodge Challenger New Year's Eve for 1987 and restored it in 1989. It was beautiful for at least 15 years as a posted 1992 photo shows. But it's been outside for 25 years and developed rust problems in small spots around the front and rear windshields in Florida's rainy weather. The front and rear sub-frames are perfectly solid. It's a Florida car. No road salt down here. The floors including the trunk floor were addressed in the 1989 restoration and are solid except for a small, easily repairable, rust hole of about 2 inches by 1 inch on the rear floor board just behind the driver's seat area which is visible in the photos. There was some spot repair done on them in the 1989 restoration. There are several photos of the frame and floors shown. Both Quarters, Roof, Rear Deck, Cowl, both A-Pillar tops suffered some spot rust damage and I recommend that they be replaced with aftermarket sheetmetal for a perfect restoration. The aftermarket provides replacement sheet metal on all these parts. It is possible to spot repair all of these, but now there is a much larger offering of replacement sheetmetal available for Challengers that wasn't yet available in 1989. The vehicle was only driven 20K miles since restored in 1989. A remanufactured 1970 225 slant six engine was part of the 1989 restoration and has only 20K miles on it. That engine is completely sludge-free and looks like a new engine internally, because it is essentially a new engine. It lost some compression in one of the cylinders (#3) so it doesn't idle as smoothly as it did. FYI: The 1970 225 Slant Six engine with the car is a 1970 engine. Slant Sixes still had Forged Cranks in 1970 model engines! You can research it. The long block was purchased from a major engine remanufacturer when I restored the car. I don't recall their name but simply recall that they were one of the major remanufacturers. And they provided a 1970 model engine for a 1970 car. Thus this Slant Six is a 1970 model and thus has the very rare Forged Crankshaft to the best of my knowledge. Thus the Buyer could choose to make a performance engine of this 1970 Slant Six if they want to stay with the 6 cylinder drivetrain. The carburetor is in good condition. The 904 Transmission is in very good condition. It performed perfectly when I drove it but is the original transmission. I doubt that the Slant Six driveline is of interest. If the buyer intends to go to a V8 driveline they can specify in their offer and offer to buy the car without the Slant6 driveline and make a lower offer. I have a V-8 Radiator Bulkhead that can be installed on the car in a V-8 conversion that the buyer could buy separately. A new Radiator was installed in 1989 and so it only has 20K miles on it. So it's very good. But it's a Radiator for the Slant Six, not a V-8. I installed a new Battery Tray in 1989 and it's still in excellent condition. The car was equipped with Chrysler's Electronic Ignition in 1989 and is in excellent condition. The Gas Tank is in very good condition. The Rear Bumper and Rear Valance are in very good condition. The Rear Bumper Chrome is very shiny. The Rear Leaf Springs need to be replaced and the Rear End is a Slant6 driveline 7.25. The Taillights are in good condition. The lens are very good but the lens housings have some chrome pitting due to age. The Side Marker Lamps are very good. The Trunk Lid is in good shape but had some inner panel spot rust damage that was repaired in 1989. Message me and I'll send photos of it. I haven't fully inspected it but a quick look looks like it's still very reusable. The upper skin of the Trunk Lid looks fine. The Rear Windshield and Rear Side Glass are in very good condition but need to have their tinting redone. A replacement is required for the Front Windshield. The Doors and Fenders were part of the 1989 restoration and thus are in good condition. The Fenders, due to being off the car and stored with each other, their sharp edges scratched the other's paint. The car was primered in Epoxy Primer then Surfacing Primer then Acrylic Lacquer top coat in 1989. The Epoxy Primer is still state-of-the-art primer and I don't recommend removing it in areas not being repaired when repainting the car. Sand the Lacquer top coat down to the Surfacing Primer layer underneath since much better Top Coat paints are available now. Unfortunately, due to rain exposure, there is one small rust spot at the rear bottom of each Fender and a little bit worse and the front bottom of the doors. The Fenders can certainly be repaired fairly easily thus saving $600 each for each replacement aftermarket Fender. The Doors are a little worse and certainly can be repaired. I recommend repairing the doors and fenders. They have small spot rust damage at the bottom that's very repairable. Aftermarket doors and fenders are still very expensive and these doors and fenders from the 1989 restoration are still very reusable. I had to replace the driver's door in the 1989 restoration because the original had been side-swiped. I removed the Left Door VIN tag, so it's still with the car. Message me and I've send a photo of it. The door glass on both doors was replaced in 1989 with factory tinted glass. The 1970 Grille and Headlight Bezels are in good condition but have some slight metal damage.. The Grille has some small perturbation in the metal at the ends but is in very good condition. Message me and I'll provide photos on these parts and many others. The RT Hood that was on the car was rusted out in the front left corner when I bought it. I metal-repaired it in 1989 but the filler cracked and rust came back in that area, so I recommend buying a new aftermarket RT Hood. The old RT Hood is not part of the car. It's not something that I would repair anymore. The Front Bumper is no longer part of the car. There were some deep scratches in the old bumper so it's best to get a new reproduction front bumper which isn't that expensive. The Front Valance needs some body work but is certainly restorable. The Front Suspension is in SUPERB condition. The best part of the car. Just bolt it back together. No need to spend hundreds rebuilding an old, worn-out suspension on an old basket case Challenger. The whole Front Suspension was completely rebuilt in 1989 with Moog heavy-duty parts and polyurethane performance bushings and is still like new. It gave a smooth, sweet ride. The front brakes are drum without power booster, but that worked fine in a 6 cylinder car. The car has power steering and the pump and gear box are in very good condition. The car received new shocks all around in 1989 so they only have 20K miles on them and are still very good. I believe all the metal trim pieces external and in the interior are in very good condition. The hood trim piece and the tail panel trim pieces are missing. They are all aftermarket available. You'll have to buy new seats and carpet. Only the front bucket passenger seat remains and needs recovering. The front seat runners are missing. The carpet was new in 1989 but 25 years of sun has bleached the color brown. Top quality reproduction carpets with the correct nylon loop fabric and jute backing are available cheaply from the aftermarket, so get a new carpet. The Headliner is from the 1989 restoration and is good. Some of the seat belt parts are missing. Primarily the front lower seat belts. The Dash has an aftermarket cap on it, which looks fine. I don't recall the exact condition of the Dash underneath the cap, my recollection is from 1989. I recall that the Dash wasn't bad but wasn't perfect and should be replaced with an aftermarket dash or redone by Just Dashes. The Dash was a non-1970 replacement in 1989 because the 1970 Dash wasn’t in usable condition. It doesn't contain the VIN tag on it. The Fender Tag with the VIN has always been with the car. I have the Left Inner Fender and the Left Door VIN tags. I do believe I stored away the Dash VIN tag off the old 70 Dash Pad for safe keeping but I haven't found where I put it yet. I still have many boxes to search. You'll need to replace the steering wheel. The Heater Core, Left and Right Cowl Vents and Dash Control Panel are all fine. I may not have some of the lower Dash Trim Plastic Pieces. The cardboard Glove Box is no longer there. The steering column is good and contains the transmission shifter. I recommend replacement of the hard plastic Door and Rear Panels. They're in usable shape but the prior owner cut out speaker holes in them. The car is completely dismantled. Message me and I'll send photos of many parts. I've moved everything into my garage so it's ready for pickup. The car sits on plywood boards and cushioning floor mats and can be slid on plywood out of the garage onto the driveway and picked-up. I still have the stock Mopar Road Wheel mags shown in the picture and am willing to sell them separately. Only 2 tires remain. 2 rims are without tires. When you buy, you'll receive the contact information to arrange a pickup of the vehicle. If you hire a third party, hire someone you trust because the vehicle is in parts. I will take photos of everything and send them to you to provide security. When you pickup, there are places locally to buy boxes to put all the parts in. Hopefully, you'll pickup with an enclosed car trailer. Everything will fit inside it. I'm here at the pickup address 100% of the time so it should be easy to coordinate a pickup date/time. Occasionally, I have to run an errand so coordination with me of the pickup time is necessary so I know not to schedule an errand when you pickup the vehicle.