1970 Dodge Charger

NO RESERVE Coupe - B Body

440 V8 U-Code 375hp

AT

XS29U0G248414

Clear

Gasoline

1970 Dodge Charger R/T 440 U Code - Matching #'s - AC NO RESERVE Thank you for checking out my auction, on my 1970 Charger R/T, 440 U-Code, Factory AC, Project. Yes, it has its Original Engine and transmission, it is Numbers Matching, VIN stamped on Engine, and VIN on transmission, VIN on Dash, VIN on Radiator Support, and VIN on the Trunk gutter, and I was able to carefully retrieve the Build Sheet, original Vin tag is on the door as well. All the panels are original to the car, nothing changed out, yes they need some work, but this is a very solid Rare Car. The Fender tag, was removed along time ago, when it got repainted, so that is the only thing missing, though since you have all the documentation and the build sheet, another one could be made. This will be your opportunity to build a great car that has Pedigree, nothing like starting with a Numbers car, which means everything in the end when it is restored, especially a R/T - 440 U Code - 375HP Charger. Numbers Matching Cars like this, done correctly, can bring $45-60K. Instead of doing a big long description, I decided to write underneath a lot of the pictures, hope that helps you while viewing the pictures. This is a very solid car in general, amazing to find a car like this still these days. It has been parked since 1983, and not driven since. This was a factory White, White top, and tan interior, with AC which is pretty rare back then in a Muscle Car. It was repainted in 1978 in kind of a custom scheme, you can read more about that in the pictures. It has all of its original sheet metal currently, and for the most part you will probably be able to work with most of it, besides, the rear valance and maybe front valance and patch panels it needs. The drivers passenger fender, has some issues, it was ran into a ditch long ago, and worked back out a little. The inner passenger fender apron, got damaged some back by the firewall, and they tried to fix it, again this was the late 70's, and they got it good as they could. It isn't to bad but it will take a little bit of work to get it get it looking smooth again. when it got ran into the ditch down low, it moved the front bumper up about a 1/2" so the bumper brackets might be tweaked a little, not sure, fender is in correct position and inner apron looks aligned. The body on the car looks pretty good, amazing rockers on it. There is a little bit of rust on the bottom of drivers fender, behind both rear wheels low on the quarter panels. The passenger quarter has some bubbling around the wheel lip, drivers side looks decent. There is some bondo work that was done on the driver door you can see. For the rest of the car no signs of any major bondo on it pretty clean from what I can see. The roof for a vinyl top car is in good shape, the top is good, obviously the top is coming off, but it very solid. Repairs that need to be done, are the C pillar seams, they are bubbling, and probably rusty, pretty typical. There is a spot of rust on the drivers side, end of the roof line, not sure whey strange area. The roof gutters are solid, front of windshield roof area very solid, no bubbles up on the roof area on top, very clean, hard to see in pictures. Front windshield is cracked. Below the rear window the filler panel, between trunk, and trim, the metal is loose, and you can move it up and down, needs repaired under the trim, but around the rest of window seams in good shape as far as I can tell. Grill area is complete, but see pictures has some cracks and grill center broken, surround had a light crack but nice. Front bumper good condition, and rear bumper needs some work, but usable as a core. Overall a very good body, look at the pictures and you will get a good idea. The frame rails are in good shape for the most part, the rear 2 right before they go over the rearend, will need some light repair, in the bottom corners, pretty easy to fix. Front frame rails look good. The trunk pan, it is pretty much gone needs a new one, not uncommon on these Mopars, The floors look decent, one section needs to be replaced full at the rear of the passenger floor see picture, large softball size hole. The rest of the floors have some pitting, a few pin holes, but I think may be savable, depends on level of restoration you are going for. Interior, you can basically see it, and the condition, needs everything restored. It is a factory AC car, all the stuff is in dash, instrument panel is missing. The glove box door needs to be repaired on the framing on the dash itself due to rust, see pictures of it off. Dash pad is nice, steering wheel center is decent, cracks around wheel. No console, it is gone. Doors open and close nicely, it does have side windows, just rolled them down, they are not broken. The rear window will not crank down. The engine does not run, it is the original engine and transmission to the car, VIN stamped, 440 Magnum HP, with 727, car has a 1970 Road Runner 3.23 Posi in it now, it originally had a Limited slip 3.23, not complaining, I like Posi myself and since it is out of the same year, I am good with that. Engine has not run since 1983, been parked, and was removed for a number of years. I took valve covers off, and everything on top looks in order, no bent push rods, dirty but looks good. Engine block will not turn over, so it needs obviously dismantled. The car does roll and steer, so you can move it around. All the shocks are frozen, so it is sitting up a little high, should have took them off, but I didn't, needs restored. Everything you see in pictures, that are attached to the car is what I have, I do not have radiator, driveline, ac compressor, fan, etc, this is all I have, accept the rear armrest I do have for the car. Please view all the pictures and study them and read more of the description below. I probably missed something, but you can make most everything out in pictures. Please read the auction and view the pictures many times this is what I would call a finished project, if you have questions let me know I would be glad to answer them for you. This is a NO RESERVE auction, meaning that I am going to let this car go for the highest bid. Thanks, Jason 503-910-2085 503-910-2085 - Jason - Blue Oval Ranch Inc. - Salem, Oregon - DA0612 Terms are pretty Simple, if you can pay for it, within the time I allow, and can follow the guidelines, then please bid, if you can't then don't. It takes 2 to put on a good auction, you the Buyer and Me the Seller. I have perfect feedback, have sold over 500 well loved Classic Cars on Ebay, and have pretty much had great experiences with everyone. International Bidders, Please bid, have sent many cars to Europe, Australia, Asia, and all has been great. Please read the auction 2-3 times, and look at all the pictures and study them. If you have more questions please call me or email, I would be glad to help. If you need help shipping, I have a gentleman that I us often, he can give you a quote anywhere in the USA, he is reliable and hauls all my cars and most of my customers. His name is Mario, with Zbest Transport 425-315-5929, if anything he can give you a ball park of what it cost to ship. Tell him you are dealing with me. Terms of Sale: When auction ends, you need to contact me within 24hrs of auction end, $1000 deposit within 2 days, prefer paypal. Balance due within 7 days of auction end. If you have questions about payment, give me a call before you bid, if you need special arrangements, as long as I know ahead of time, no problem. I am easy to get along with. When you pay in full, I will fax you a bill of sale, and buyers guide, and have you sign it fax it back, and I will send you the Oregon Title, and Original Paperwork I have by FedEx to you and the bill of sale. If you come in person, obviously I would do all the paperwork with you, and hand over title in hand when you pay. Most people I deal with have there car shipped, so just explaining all the details. Pretty Simple, you pay, and you get the title and the vehicle. A U C T I O N E N D S MAY 18th EAST COAST: 10:00 pm WEST COAST: 7:00 pm 10 Day Auction, I am looking for a Buyer! Give me a Call if you have questions! *U.S. and International bidders welcome as long as your friendly! The 1968-70 Chargers are just awesome, they got the looks, they got the engine options. 1970 was pretty unique, with the chrome wrap around grill, and R/T Scoop on the door, all time favorite. As you look through the pictures you will get a pretty good idea of what the car is. It is very solid, it will need some body work, but for the most part fairly straight besides the passenger fender. Might was well start off right, because this is the big question that everyone has when dealing with the a car like this so just show all the VINS and documentation for the car first DO THE NUMBERS MATCH? YES VIN on the Dash Drivers side. By the way this car is All original Sheet Metal, all the body panels are original, Date codes etc. Original Door VIN on drivers door. For those who do know how to decode and what makes this car special. XS - X/Charger, S/Special R/T, 29- 2dr Hardtop Charger, U- 440 Magnum 375hp, 0-1970, G-Built St. Louis, 248414 Consecutive Unit Number. Peeled the gasket back on the drivers side, trunk rail, Partial VIN Stamp, nice to see it there. These 2 next pictures are really important to when identifying a Charger, since they are stamped into the body, this is the true way to identify your High Performance Mopar, if these hidden VINs are not on a car, you should be questioning its authenticity. Inner radiator support, Partial VIN on the drivers side. Build sheet under the back seat, there is another one still in the seat, but it is really bad. We were able to take this out to preserve it. The only thing we do not have is the Fender Tag, you can get another reproduced since the car is complete, and everything matches. Maybe hard to read in pictures, but in person you can see all the numbers pretty good. Vin stamp on the passenger side of the block above oil pan. Transmission VIN stamp on the passenger side of bell housing. Top of the engine pad, can you say High Performance 440 - 375HP. This is a U Code 440. Forgot to take a picture of the rearend tag, it is not original to the car, back in 1978, a 3.23 Posi Track rear end was installed out of a 1970 Road Runner. Back in the day everyone wanted Posi over the Limited slip. In the pictures you will notice it is sitting up high in the front and rear, like it does not have the motor in it. The front shocks are frozen on it, so when we set the engine back in it, the car stayed up, feeling proud with its chest buffed up, look I am a R/T 440 Charger!!! lol. Interesting story about this Charger R/T. It was bought by a gentleman in 1978 in the Albany area, he got it in High School. Very original car when he bought it, original paint etc.He wanted a custom paint job to show it off. He had it painted, Copper as you see, and it had Gold stripes on it, that ran out the back of the side vents, the inner sections darker copper color, and the stripes continued over the trunk lid. As you look at this picture you can see it. Across the Trunk Lid, he named it "BROWN SUGAR". This car went to a lot of Shows back in the day. It got parked in 1983, school, family etc, how times flies, it has never seen the road since then. He owned it all these years, and we bought it from him. Here is were we saved the car. The engine and transmission and rearend were going to be transplanted into an 1973 Dodge Dart that he had. The plans in the last few years, were to take this Charger, and put it on a Ford 4x4 Frame, which they had already pretty much to go, and build a General Lee 4x4????? Seriously out of a U code 440 Charger R/T?? Thank goodness that never happen, we brought it home with us 2 days later, would love to build this car, but need to turn it loose so someone can build their dream car. These are the plates that were on it, I have the other one for the front as well, tags expired 1985. Look close "BROWN SUGAR". Grill section, needs repaired or replaced, someone decided to steal the Charger emblem, grrrr. Small crack on the surround, you can barely see it on the vertical area on edge, and chip on edge of grill. Headlight covers look good though. Front valance needs some love, but I think maybe workable, or get new one. In person the fender looks a little better, but still needs love. I would try to keep it though. Drivers side bottom of fender some rust, needs repaired. The rockers though excellent. The car has all original sheet metal on it. This fender, not looking to good, it has been straightened up some, but I believe with some more work, this fender could be used again on the car, to keep it correct for it, on top of that these are very hard to find original, 1 year only. Small crease at bottom of the fender. Drivers side taillight in general is good, but there is a small dime size chunk out of the back section toward the end to the left maybe able to be repaired. This taillight is in decent shape. Bottom rear valance, its seen better days, needs replaced, you might be able to use the other half though, and splice it. Original engine, VIN stamped. I had someone ask me already does it run? No it does not, has not run since 1983. When we got it, the engine and transmission were out of it, we put it back in so it could be transported, bought new motor mounts to secure it, and it does not have correct trans mount in it, just used another Mopar trans mount to support it. In a few pictures down, I took off the valve covers so you could see the rockers. The motor is frozen, I don't know the total condition, it ran when parked. There was old oil in the oil pan, drained it. I see as well, under the carb, they put a screen between carb and intake to keep stuff out. Until it is taken apart, I do not know the total condition of it. The Carb is original, but it looks pretty well shot. The rare exhaust manifolds were in the trunk when we got it, just put them with a couple nuts, for transport. I do not have anything else under the hood, what you see is what we have for the car, this goes for interior as well. Rockers are all there, no bent push rods, so everything looks tidy under the valve covers, dirty obviously, but good sign. Intake part number, here is that screen I was talking about earlier, that they put between the carb and intake, to keep objects out of the engine while it sat. This is the way we got it. Drivers side exhaust manifold, original. Passenger side exhaust manifold. Block part number, it has actually on both sides of the block. Engine VIN. Trans VIN. Seats. are decent builders, in good shape in general. I took them out so you could see the floors of the car. Someone a long time ago in the late 80's, decided to help themselves to the console, and instrument cluster to the car, and took a few R/T emblems. If you want to return them that would be great, no questions asked, give me a call, long shot but you never know : ) 503-910-2085 Factory AC car, pretty rare on a car like this. I just noticed as I looked through my pictures, were you see the seat belts sitting, there is a softball size hole, in the corner, you can see in with the under shot pictures I took though. The original top, left it on was going to peal it off, but left it. It actually is really solid on top, around roof gutters around front of windshield. Has the typical seam were the roof meets the C piller, bubbling up, were the factory lead is coming out. My guess is these areas will need rust repair. I peels back some of the loose Vinyl top, very clean underneath, and solid. Interesting spot for a rust hole, can't figure it out, other side is good. underneath back window, the filler panel is rusted under the trim, you can push it up and down with your hand. top of roof is very solid. C Pillar seams I was talking about, pretty common, bubbling from the seam, and factory lead coming up, and usual rust. Took the glove box door off so you could see the bottom of dash, it needs repaired. For the most part pretty decent floors, some scale, and some repairs need to be made, but overall, the general floor is repairable. Passenger rear floor at the rear, needs to be replaced on the back half, the other floors, might have a few small pin holes, but I think usable, depends on what level restoration you will do. Biggest needs rust wise, is that it needs a full trunk pan. Gas tank needs replaced as well. Rockers are very nice on this car. Both rear quarters will need replaced behind the wheels, pretty typical repair on these cars. Section of trunk pan rust. The frame rails on the car look pretty good though for the most part. Bottom of quarter panel on the passenger side, this section in the bend on both sides, is going to have to be repaired, it is getting thin. I think the frame rail in general is savable, besides these repairs. Drivers side frame rail, bottom section needs spliced in and repaired, is intact but is think and is flakey. Front frame rails look very nice. This apron has been repaired in the past. He ran it into a ditch back in 1982, didn't hurt the front grill, but the apron, toward the back, you can see it wrinkled it a little bit. He had it straightened, as best they could back in the day, and there are some spot welds at the front of apron on radiator support. This will need to be reworked in the future. This is the only damage when it comes to accidents structurally. Trunk pan, well it needs one, not much else to say.