1968 Chevrolet Camaro

RALLY SPORT Coupe

V-8

Automatic

124378L311525

Clear

Gasoline

I have a reputation of giving long winded descriptions of cars that I list here on Ebay. But I like folks to know exactly what they are bidding on so that there are no unpleasant surprises. And everyone has always been happy with their purchase from me. I've sold about 30 cars from about $5k to $40k over the last few years on here. I am a 1st generation Camaro FREAK. I've been restoring them over 30 years now and I'm about to get the hang of it. I rate my cars as "A" , "B" or "C" cars. An "A" is a National contender, never, ever to be driven. A "B" is almost too nice to drive and will win consistantly at the local shows. A "C" is a super nice driver that will pick up a trophy now and then. This car is a "C" type car. I have a lot of requests for good builders. So sometimes I just take a car up to the point where all the hard, scarey metal work is done and someone can finish it out to their own taste. That's the case here. On to the car. This car came from the factory with some really nice options. It was Matador Red with a Black vynal top and Rally Sport equipment. It was a V-8 with an automatic transmission (both long gone).It had Black and White Houndstooth Deluxe interior with floor shift and console.Came with power steering,manual drum brakes and factory air conditioning. It still has the correct coded 12 bolt,non-posi rear end and multileaf springs which would indicate the car was originaly an L30 275hp 327 or an L48 295hp 350 Super Sport. When I got the car,it was about 70% dismantled. I stripped it to bare metal and started the metalwork.It had a good tail panel,frame rails,shock mount areas,inner and outer wheelwells,trunk drop offs and decklid filler panel.The trunk pan had a couple of small holes that I was able to weld up.I installed a new decklid and new rear spoiler.I installed a new right quarterskin.I bought a skin for the left side,but it only a small 1”x7” rusty spot behind the wheel and I just couldn’t bring myself to cut off the whole quarter,so I cut a patch panel out of the skin and welded it in.Good sail panels and front and rear window openings.There were several small holes in the middle of the roof,so I installed a new roof skin.Good rockers,door jambs,firewall,cowl area,toe panels and upper dash panel.The car has nice solid original floor pans,braces and seat risors. All the cutting and welding were done with a plasma cutter and mig welder using solid steel core wire(no flux core ever).Once all the cutting and welding and grinding were done,the rough in body work was completed and a coat of yellow rust inhibiting polyester primer(Z-Chrome Rust Defender) was applied.It was then longboarded with 80 grit and reprimed twice.It was then primed with black lacquer primer and longboarded with 180 grit twice. The subframe assembly,firewall,cowl area and dash were cleaned and sealed with PPG DP-90 Epoxy Sealer.The bottom of the car was coated with truck bedliner. I then installed the front clip including new fenders,good original inner fenders(sanded and sealed with DP-90),new core support,new lower valance,new header panel and new cowl hood. I then installed new wheelwell moldings,complete new side marker kit,new tail light bezels and lenses,new gas cap,new rear bumper and bolts,new gas tank and mounting straps,new 3/8” sending unit,new heater core and heater hoses,new outer door handles,new door mirror,new front bumper and bolts,new grill,new upper and lower grill moldings and good original hideaway headlight assemblies.It will need vacuum actuators,brackets,vacuum reservoir and vacuum hose kit to make the hideaways functional.The original vacuum headlight switch is intact. The original tinted back glass was installed with nice original stainless moldings and new clips.The original tinted door and quarter glasses were installed.All original correct Deluxe regulators and tracks were cleaned and lubed so all the windows roll up and down smoothly.A new tinted and shaded windshield was installed with nice original stainless moldings and new clips.New drip rail moldings were installed. The car is rolling on 15x7 rallys with roller tires. The seats were stripped of all upholstery and padding. All repairs were made as necessary. They were then cleaned up and sealed with DP-90.They just need new covers and buns to make a real nice set of seats. The original keys for the ignition,doors and trunk are included.The center a/c vent,radio,ashtray,lighter and wiper knob are missing. The under dash wiring harness,front to rear harnees and trunk harness are intact. The engine compartment harnesses are not installed but are included along with several original misc. parts,Deluxe door panel pulls,rear view mirror and bracket,a/c ductwork,etc. There is a good shifter with it and a console that will need to be restored. The car will need your drive train, all new brakes,a complete interior kit, a weather stripping kit, etc. I suggest the car be blocked and reprimed a couple of times to make sure all the sand scratches are gone before painting. This car still has a long way to go, but is a real nice start. I have a clear Arkansas title in my name. The car is not advertised locally, but everyone knows that I build these cars and about a fourth of them sell locally by word of mouth before the end of the auction, so I reserve the right to stop the auction should a local show up with cash. Of course,if you hit the Buy it now,it is yours.I will require a non-refundable deposit of $500.00 via Paypal within 24 hours. The balance is due within 7 days via Bank wire transfer or cash in hand. If you use the wire transfer, I can overnight the title to you. If payment requirements are not met,the car will be relisted immediately. I can store the car up to 30 days inside. I am available just about anytime to help you load it or help a transport driver load her up. The car can be viewed about anytime. Please ask any and all questions you may have before bidding. Thank you.