1985 Toyota Land Cruiser

SUV

2F

Manual

JT3FJ60GXF1129216

Clear

Gasoline

Here it is, my pride and joy one of the greatest ’85 Land Cruisers you’ll find in a NO RESERVE auction. It’s strong as an ox with the coveted 5-speed Toyota H55F manual transmission. This is the 4th Land Cruiser I’ve owned and by far my favorite. If you’re in the market for a great cruiser please stick around, if not hopefully you’ll learn some great stuff that’ll help you down the road if this ones not quite right for you. I’ve had this Cruiser for over 3 years. It was a west coast truck for over 20 years before I bought it from the second owner and took it to Tennessee. From what I was told the original owner sold it back to the dealer they bought it from in California in the late 80’s where the second owner then purchased it. The second owner later moved from California to Arizona and was a single mom, she used it to haul around her kids but never took it off road. It was well maintained and never abused but as she got older it became harder for her to drive and she got in a couple minor fender benders which prompted her to sell it. After countless emails, phone calls, and pictures I pulled the trigger. The frame was straight (the damage was minor and cosmetic in nature rather than structural), the truck drove great, and like I said had been very well maintained. As with the previous owner I’ve never taken it off road (I’ve tested the 4 wheel drive in snow and it works incredibly well, as you would expect from a Land Cruiser). Over the course of the last three years I’ve driven it less than 10k miles total, used Mobil1 synthetic oil in the engine, transmission, transfer, and differentials and completed the following work (documented by thousands of dollars in receipts): Parts & Replacements - Almost every part that was replaced was replaced with an OEM Toyota or equivalent Japanese part. Any parts where this was not the case was most likely due to an upgrade (the new aluminum radiator and alternator are great examples of this). No expense was spared, almost every bolt that was encountered during any work on this truck was replaced with high quality stainless steel matching hardware, the only areas where this was not the case was where high strength steel fasteners were specced by the OEM Toyota Manual and used instead. H55F 5-Speed Manual Transmission & Transfer case - When I posted this listing on eBay of the 100+ Land Cruisers listed this was the only one with a OEM Toyota 5-speed manual transmission. I’ve owned 4 Land Cruisers and my only regret is that this is the only one I've had with this transmission. I’ve wanted one for years but because of the steep price tag I couldn’t make it happen until recently. I can cruise at 75 MPH on the highway with zero issues. Imagine driving your cruiser on the highway and not being terrified that at any minute a semi is going to ram you as it barrels down that hill behind you. Imagine being able to actually pass other vehicles because you’re driving the speed limit (or 5-10 mph over) which is an absolute impossibility if you’re driving with the stock 4-speed. The transmission was fully rebuilt and has less than 1k miles on it. New Koyo bearings, seals, gaskets, 3rd gear syncros and transmission mount. The clutch was replaced shortly before I bought the truck and I thought I would replace it when I swapped the transmission but it looked so good when I pulled it off it didn’t make sense to replace it. Both the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing were also replaced as was the master and slave clutch cylinders. Land Cruiser Buying Tip #1 - a common fail point is the seal between the transmission and transfer case. When that seal goes bad the oil will drain out of the transfer case and over fill the transmission. In very extreme cases the transmission will overfill creating a mess when it starts to leak out of the shift tower and out of the input shaft seal soaking the clutch disc. The transfercase will then contain very little oil accelerating wear and possibly causing a great deal of internal damage. Bring a socket set with you when you go to look at the cruiser so you can take out the fill plug in the transmission...if oil pours out when you remove the plug you’ve got a bad seal. Body - I hesitate to call any 25+ year old vehicle rust free, so I won’t but I’ve never owned a cruiser with this nice of a body and have seen only a handful that can compare (please email me for a link to the video so you can see all there is just cold hard steel all the way around - magnet’s on metal don’t lie). As I mentioned previously there was some body work needed when I got her...the passenger rear quarter, the hood, and the drivers side passenger door. The roof also had some damage from an aftermarket rack that was installed by drilling into the roof in several spots. The first thing I did on the body was replace the roof with a donor, rust free roof from an ’88 FJ62. The roof swap took more than 100 hours and in the process I replaced the OEM wool/fiberglass sound dampening with state of the art high temp dampening mat. Next was the quarter panel which was swapped without a hitch from the same fj62 that donated the roof...you won’t find another fj60 with fuel door controls under the dash as they only made them in 62‘s, but because of the swap this one's got it. I have a replacement hood and passenger door but ran out of time to install them because I had to get the truck painted before the winter. I painted it over the course of several different days because of some serious time restrictions (we had a little girl in November) and always thought I’d repaint it but I’ve slowly gotten used to the matte finish and haven’t been in a hurry to put the door and hood on and give it a nice paint job. There’s PPG paint, hardener, seam sealer, and everything you need to repaint this when you put on the last two body parts (you’ll need to buy the primer and possibly a little more paint). Every black part you see on the outside that isn’t made of plastic (bumpers, wiper arms, door handles, etc.) were all professionally powder coated by a shop in Tennessee that gets some of the coolest powder coating restoration work sent to them from all over the country. All light lenses are OEM Toyota parts, the front and rear side markers are new OEM as well, the antenna is heavy duty and new as well. I have the original mud flaps, and brand new black rubber piping for the window seal channels still in the box that I’m including with the listing as well. The front windshield does need to be replaced but the seal is in good condition and can be reused if you’re careful when it’s removed. Land Cruiser Buying Tip #2 - Take a refrigerator magnet with you when you go to look at the truck and run it along all the parts of body, anywhere it doesn’t stick means that there’s not any metal underneath that shiny new paint they’re trying to tempt you with. Engine - There are approximately 190k miles on this engine (the speedometer was recently replaced and does not reflect the actual mileage) but as you can tell by the compression test in the video the engine like I said before is as strong as an ox. I’ve added VDO (OEM Porsche, VW, etc.) mechanical vacuum, water, and oil gauges to ensure that all engine readings are as accurate as possible. The following has been replaced since I’ve owned it (most of it in the last year): Rear main seal Valve cover gasket Intake/exhaust manifold gasket Spark plugs & wires Fuel filter Belts Almost every hose on the engine Distributor cap & Rotor Fuel pump Champion aluminum radiator Water pump Thermostat Temp sending unit Oil pressure sending unit All new engine mounts Fan clutch K&N Air Filter Carburetor Hose caps Fuel lines Gas cap Speedometer cable Ignitor coil Battery Battery cables Military terminal clamps High output alternator (96 amps compared to the stock 40 amps) And more... This engine has been desmogged but passed emissions/smog tests with flying colors in Nashville, TN...this was even before I put on the new catalytic converter and Flowmaster 50 series muffler last month (may require adjustments or modifications to pass smog laws in your county, check with your local office for requirements). I have to add about a half a quart a month of oil due to a leak I think that’s coming from the oil pan gasket. It also leaks a little bit of coolant which I think is due to a couple of hose clamps that need to be tightened but haven’t had time to trace it. As you can tell I've replaced almost all of the engine components except for the engine itself, if it needed one I absolutely would have done it but it just runs way too good. Land Cruiser Buying Tip #3 - Always do a compression test on any used car before you buy it. You can rent a tester for free at AutoZone and find out how to use it from a number of different youtube videos. This test will give you a great understanding of what kind of shape the engine is in. Brakes - The truck stops on a dime and doesn’t pull to either side. My 3 year old son loves to ride in the Land Cruiser and safety is of the utmost importance when he’s tagging along. In addition to a full brake fluid flush less than 500 miles ago the following parts have been replaced: Front brake pads (that can be swapped for a new pair at any Wagoner dealer) Rear brake shoes Front and rear hardware kits Master cylinder Stainless steel brake lines added (front and rear) Rear wheel cylinders Parking brake handle mechanism Brake booster was traded out for one from an FJ62 with very low miles Front brake calipers were traded out for a pair from an FJ62 with very low miles Land Cruiser Buying Tip #4 - 25 plus year old rubber brake lines deteriorate over time which causes the line to flex when the pedal is depressed. This flexing is so minuscule it is nearly impossible to notice by just looking at the line while your buddy is pumping the pedal. Stainless steel brake lines are expensive but they will not flex and improve the performance of your brake system significantly. Drivetrain & Suspension - A full front axle service was just performed less than 500 miles ago complete with new bearings, washers, seals, gaskets, fluids, etc. The truck does not pull when braking even when driving 75 mph on the highway and needing to make a quick stop. I replaced the original wheels with new 17” OEM Toyota FJ Cruiser wheels with a full size matching spare underneath complete with the toughest 1.5” wheel spacers you can find. The tires are Goodyear Wrangler 265 x 70 x 17‘s and the rubber is in good condition (no dry rot, see the picture of tire and penny for tread depth). The leaf springs are original but the addition of four new monroe shocks helps smooth out the ride a great deal. Interior - A ton of time was spent removing the original carpet and the underlying sound dampening from the floor before it was primed with PPG epoxy primer and then coated with Durabak bedliner. A couple spots need to be touched up and I’ve included a brand new unopened matching quart of Durabak which is more than enough to touch up those areas. I replaced the drivers seat with a passenger seat with no tears. All seat belts are in tact but in addition I sourced an additional driver/passenger seat belt with very low miles (all OEM plastic pieces on the belt are in tact). A number of spare parts are included with everything from the AC/heating control knobs to wiring components, etc. The headliner is tight but has some tears, holes, and stains, it never bothered me but I want to disclose it nonetheless. I purchased a new dashboard cap around the same time I purchased seat covers. The seat covers have faded slightly and have a couple holes in them but protect the seats nicely. There is a slight tear in the passenger seat as you can see from the pictures but the seats are comfortable and except for a couple stains (which could probably be shampooed out) are in good shape. Drivers window regulator has been replaced. A new high capacity fire extinguisher tucks nicely on the passenger side floor board with new QuickFist clamps and stainless steel mounting hardware. Locking security console holds new weather resistant Jensen Heavy Duty radio securely but it hasn’t been hooked up yet. Brand new Polk Audio marine grade speakers, mounting hardware and custom wire harness are all included in the listing but have not been installed. I'm also including some OEM brown vinyl which I planned on recovering the armrest of the locking console with. AC/Heat & Electrical - The AC compressor was swapped with one from an ‘87 with very low miles before a complete R-134 conversion took place...new seals, o-rings, dryer, presto valves, and expansion valve. The system has been pressure tested and and passed with flying colors but needs to be vacuumed and to have freon added (I would have done it but we had a really mild summer in Portland, and I didn’t need more than a window rolled down). The heater core has been replaced and the whole truck heats up quickly even when it’s below freezing. A number of misc. connectors, parts, relays, washer pump, etc. have all been replaced and all lights, wipers, washers, etc. work as they did the day the truck left the lot (including the rear heater). What needs to be done - I drive it every day to and from work with no issues and wouldn’t hesitate to drive it across country in a heartbeat. If I was keeping it I would replace the windshield, hook up the stereo, and adjust the contacts at the steering wheel for the horn (works intermittently now), although I could easily keep driving it as is for years. Fuel injection and Buy-It-Now - If (and only if) “Buy-It-Now” is used I will also include a complete fuel injection kit, with all the parts needed for the conversion (throttle body, adapters, fuel pump, pedal & cable, wiring harness, sensors, etc.). This kit is based off of a GM kit and is an amazing fit for the stock 2F Land Cruiser engine. Includes two computers (one to run and a spare for the trail). Worth close to $1k in parts, please email me for pictures. It’s also important to note that the parts that you’ll pull out of the truck to install this system (carburetor, fuel pump, air intake assembly, etc.) could be sold for hundreds if you weren’t going to use them on another Land Cruiser. Video Link - email me and I'll send you a link (eBay = no outside URL's) Summary & Payment - This truck turns heads everywhere it goes...I can hardly be stopped at a red light without people asking me to roll down the window and talk about the truck. It's genuinely a fantastic drive, and like I said before if you've never driven a Land Cruiser with this transmission you seriously don't know what you're missing. I’m also including a digital copy of the OEM Toyota manual which includes very detailed repair instructions on everything but the engine. All of the spare parts and body parts I'm including (if you count the injection kit) are probably worth a couple thousand bucks on eBay...the truck drives great as is and if you don't want a showroom cruiser you could get rid of them and have an incredible one of a kind cruiser for even less than the starting bid. Please email me with questions before you start bidding. The winning bidder must pay a $500 deposit within 24 hours of the close of the auction and pay the balance when you pickup the vehicle with cash or a cashiers check. I bank at Bank of America and would request a cashiers check from there if you don't plan on bringing cash. Vehicle must be picked up within ten days of the end of the auction. If you want to pick up the vehicle on a day when the bank is closed (Sunday or outside of normal working hours then you MUST bring cash - I will have the bill of sale notarized in advance). If shipping is required it must be arranged by the buyer at a pickup location of my choice (a.k.a. near my house...not 90 miles away). I am listing the truck locally as well and reserve the right to end the auction early at any time regardless of wether there are currently bids or not or if eBay says that's okay. If this is the truck you’ve been waiting for, I’d encourage you to use the buy-it-now as I have way more invested than that price! Bid with confidence, I have had a 100% positive feedback rating for the last decade since I started using eBay!!!! Additional Options - If you fly into Portland International Airport (PDX) I'm happy to pick you up but I live between 30-45 minutes one-way from the airport and I'll most likely be taking time off from work so there's an additional $40 charge if you want me to pick you up (sorry I'm just a guy selling a land cruiser not a shuttle service, thanks for your understanding) BUT There is a light rail train (Trimet: MAX) that you can ride from the airport to a couple blocks from my house that costs about $5 and takes about 45 minutes. I will gladly pick you up at the MAX station by my house for free. Wether or not you're flying to pick it up or want it shipped I suggest bringing or sending me a big box of blankets to pad the spare door and hood during transport. I'm including a big blanket/comforter at no charge but I'm happy to pick up additional blankets for you at Goodwill to pad the door and the hood during transport but you'll have to pay for them. I'm guessing the adequate padding will cost about $25 in blankets which will be passed on to you (I'll provide a receipt).