1967 Chevrolet Camaro

RALLY SPORT Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Manual

124377N145101

Clear

Gasoline

I have a reputation of giving long winded descriptions of cars that I list here on Ebay. But I like folks to know exactly what they are bidding on so that there are no unpleasant surprises. And everyone has always been happy with their purchase from me. I've sold about 30 cars from about $5k to $40k over the last few years on here. I am a 1st generation Camaro FREAK. I've been restoring them over 30 years now and I'm about to get the hang of it. I rate my cars as "A" , "B" or "C" cars. An "A" is a National contender, never, ever to be driven. A "B" is almost too nice to drive and will win consistantly at the local shows. A "C" is a super nice driver that will pick up a trophy now and then. This car is a "C" type car. I have a lot of requests for good builders. So sometimes I just take a car up to the point where all the hard, scarey metal work is done and someone can finish it out to their own taste. That's the case here. Now on to the car. I got this one as I do a lot. A guy had bought it, got started on it and gave up once he found out how much money it would take to get the metal work done. The car was originally Ermine White with a Black vinyl top; Code C-2. It had Black Custom Interior, Code 765-Z. VIN starts with 124 indicating a V-8. It originally had a 327 and a 4 spd. trans. Both are long gone.The car came with manual drum brakes, powersteering and factory A/C. The previous owner had completely disassembled the car and stripped the paint to bare metal. The tail panel had been removed. I installed a new one. There were a couple of small holes in the trunk pan that I was able to sew up with a mig. Trunk extensions, drop offs, shock mount areas, and frame rails were all good. I installed new quarter skins. I installed all 4 new floor pans. There was a small rusty spot in the firewall right behind the A/C evaporator. I cut a piece off of a parts car and welded in a repair. Rockers, roof and deck lid filler panel were all good. Nice original doors off a parts car. All cutting and welding were done with a plasma cutter and mig welder using solid steel core wire, (no flux core ever). Once all the cutting, welding and grinding were done, the rough in body work was completed and a coat of a yellow colored, rust inhibiting polyester primer was applied. It was then longboarded with 80 grit and reprimed twice. It was then longboarded with 180 grit and reprimed with black lacquer primer twice. I recommend priming and blocking it a couple more times before painting. The bottom of the car was then given two coats of truck bed liner. The rearend, leaf springs and shock plates were cleaned up, given a coat of black epoxy sealer and installed with new shackles. The subframe assembly was cleaned up, given a coat of black epoxy sealer and installed with new body mounting bushings and bolts. The car will need your drivetrain and all new brakes. I then installed a new decklid and a new rear spoiler. I installed a complete new front clip including the following: New core support New core support mounting bushings and bolts All new bolts and clips New fenders New inner fenders New inner fender brackets New fender extensions New lower valance New header panel New grill support bracket New hood latch New hood striker New cowl hood New hood hinges and springs New battery tray New heater core New steering rag joint A new windshield was installed with nice original stainless moldings and all new clips. A nice original back glass was installed with nice original stainless moldings and all new clips. Door and quarter glasses are all good and roll up and down nicely. The dash is complete minus the heater controls and the A/C duct work. The front to rear and trunk wiring is intact. The underdash and engine compartment wiring are in a box and complete. Good rebuildable seat cores are included. They will need new buns and covers. The car will need a complete interior kit and a weather stripping kit. It has nice 15X7 Rallys with decent original center caps and new stainless trim rings and mismatched roller tires. I installed a new gas tank with new mounting straps and a new 3/8” sending unit. I installed a new RS gas cap, new reverse light assemblies, new rear bumper, new taillight bezels and lenses. New wheel well moldings, new rocker moldings, new lower fender, door and quarter RS moldings. New outer door handles, new door mirror, new driprail moldings, new front bumper, new parklight assemblies, new headlight bucket assemblies, new headlight motors and limit switches, new headlight doors and trim, new headlight bezels, new upper grill molding, new lower grill molding, new grill. Complete new emblem kit. All the keys come with the car. The car still has a long way to go, but it is a nice solid start. I have a clear open Arkansas title in my name. I am available just about anytime for you to view the car. I will require a $500.00 non-refundable deposit via Paypal within 24 hours. The balance is due within 5 days via Bank Wire Transfer or cash in hand. If you opt for the Bank Wire Transfer, I can overnight the title to you. If payment terms are not met,the car will be relisted immediately.I can store the car inside for up to 30 days and am available most anytime to help you or a transport to load it. The car is not advertised locally,however lots of people know about me and about 50% of my cars sell locally by word of mouth.If someone stops by with the cash before it sells on Ebay,it will be gone.