1983 Nissan 280ZX

Coupe

6 - Cyl.

Manual

JN1HZ04S4DX580857

Clear

Gasoline

Up for auction is a 1983 Datsun by Nissan 280zx, 5 speed T-top. The engine is the l28e straight six non-turbo The automobile only has 108k miles on it, and has spent the last section of it's life in storage. I bought the car with intent of restoring it to its original grandeour, but with my first year of college coming up soon, I unfortunately cannot hang onto it, because tuition and rent have taken priority. Overal the body on the car is in fair condition, there are some minor dents on the fenders, the doors are just starting to rust in the corners, and there is a rust spot on the back hatch. The paint is faded. The interior is in great shape, no rips or tears in the seats, the dash has no cracks, its just semi dismantled right now (I have all pieces) leading to the biggest issue with this vehicle, a wiring gremlin, of which I've been searching for. *I also have a body kit and car cover for this automobile* """""""""""""""""""""""""""This car is not in running condition it is being sold as a project""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" When I bought the vehicle I thought it was just the fuel pump that was stopping it from starting, after replacing the fuel pump, and drained the old fuel out of the system and ran fuel system cleaner through the lines, the motor was still acting like it was having trouble getting gas. I then removed the fuel rail from the car, put all new plugs on, cleaned the distributor contacts, all electric contacts, and put new vacuum lines on. When I removed the fuel rail I narrowed the issue down to the two wires that control when the injectors spray, they jump between a postive and a ground which is controlled by the ecm according to what I've read on nissan forums. The issue is that i don't believe it is actually the ECM, because I've gotten the car to start a few times, by wiggling the wires around under the driverside kick pannels, and the wires under the rear carpet mat leading to the fuel pump. I believe I've got a short or a relay somewhere that is causing my issue, but the problem is that I'm moving for school on monday, so my father is fullfilling this auction for me. When the car runs it drives great minus one of the calipers sticking on the rear of the car (disk brakes all around) shifts through all gears fine, the last time I started the car I drove it for a little over fourty minutes to and back from town, I also let it sit and idle for an hour curiously crossing my fingers to see if it would work its issue out itself. The tach sits still at idle, no vacuum leaks, and the car runs nice and cool. If you have any more questions please don't hesitate to ask, I'm also selling this car locally and reserve the right to end the auction early. Thank you for your time and happy bidding!