Detail Info for: Dodge Coronet Convertible with R/T Badging

Transaction Info

Sold On:
08/10/2010
Price:
$ 17500.00
Condition:
Used
Mileage:
85086
Location:
Spring Grove, PA, 17362
Seller Type:
Private seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1969 Dodge Coronet
Submodel Body Type:
Convertible Convertible
Engine:
8 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
WP27F9G
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

No PayPal. Cashier’s Check, Certified Check or Money Order only. Bidder's, before you bid, make sure you have the funds available for the “amount you bid” plus, “any funds you need for shipping”. If you do not have the total funds immediately available, DO NOT BID! Up for sale is a 1969 Dodge Coronet 500 Convertible, loosely cloned to resemble an R/T. It is not a true R/T Coronet Convertible. It has no power steering or brakes. I purchased the car about 5 years ago and at that time, the car had a non-original 383 engine in it. If left the factory as a 318 car. The odometer says 85,086 but the PA title exempts the milage. All of the bodywork, trim, chrome and interior work, were as you see it, when I bought it. All of the glass appears origional and in decent shape. The interior appears mostly origional and decent also. The top doesn't seem too old and look OK. This car is over 40 years old so don't expect the craftsmanship of a new Challenger. I have two other Mopars I'd like to enjoy more and a busy schedule, so I have no time to enjoy this car or work on it any more. I just want to see it get a good home and enjoyed. The car has just a mile or two on it since my updates were done. Announcement of concern: The last time I had it running, I noticed a small amount (trickle) of anti-freeze had ran down the exhaust pipe on the left side of the car. I cannot tell where it is coming from, and just don’t have the time to look into it right now. All indicators like engine temperature and oil pressure were great, and there was no smoke from the exhaust, miss, or noise from the engine. It ran and idled beautifully! I did pull the valve cover and everything looked perfect. The heads were checked before the new valves were installed and there were supposedly fine. It could just be one of those “bugs” that come with a lot of engine rebuilds, or something may be wrong with the head. I will include a spare pair of used “346” heads just in case you would need to swap-out the head, new valves and springs. If it’s minor fix, you’ll have a pair of heads to sell. Now for the good stuff. Updates I did to the car were: Engine – Replaced the 383 with a 1971 440 from a former Virginia State Police car. Just a few of the engine rebuilding highlights included: boring it .030 over and fitting it with new 10:1 pistons, balancing it, giving it a mild hydraulic cam, reworking the heads with stainless valves, new fuel and oil pumps, and topping it off with an Eldebrock high rise 2-4s manifold with a pair of 550 CFM Eldebrock performer carburetors. Other stuff too numerious to mention. Transmission – Replaced the stock 727 transmission with a TCI 727 Streetfighter transmission and a B&M torque converter. Rear – Removed the stock 8 1/4 rear and replaced it with an 8 3/4 rear with 11” drums and a rebuilt center section with 4.10 gears and positraction. Replaced the stock leaf springs with a pair of Hemi leaf springs. Miscellaneous – Installed a pair of factory HP exhaust manifolds and a “TTI” 2 1/2 inch exhaust systems with turbo mufflers and stainless tips. Removed small wheels and tires and replaced them with wider, slotted style police wheels with dog dish hubcaps, trim rings, and 4 brand new Cooper white lettered tires. Installed KYB gas shocks all around. Removed the steel hood and replaced it with an aftermarket fiberglass lift-off hood. Converted the ignition to a single wire distributor. Installed a non-rally type dash tachometer. Replaced both of the convertible top hydraulic lines and 1 lift cylinder. What comes with the car: An original steel “R/T bulge” hood painted like the car with its hinges that was on the car when I got it. 1 pair of ceramic coated big-block Hooker Competition Plus headers, never used. 1 Pair of used "346" heads. What can I say about the car? It’s an awesome big block Mopar convertible with just a couple of miles on it since my work was done. Although it’s a clone, it is a car you can have a blast with. This car will give the Bowtie and tuner owners whiplash just watching it. Figure how much you would have in a car like this one, if you found a basic Coronet convertible and did all of the body and mechanical work to it. This car is “stimulus” priced to start (substantially below my investment and cost to build) and will be sold to the highest bidder. It’s the kind of car you don’t mind driving anywhere, anytime (in dry weather hopefully). It’s just an extra Mopar that I don’t have the time to drive and want to see it get a good home and enjoyed. It is probably safe to say that in 5 years it could easily be worth twice what you pay for it. After all, it is a big-block, Scat Pack era, Mopar convertible. There will be no: after-the-sale price negotiations, or tire kicking allowed. Payment is due “in-full” 7 days after the close of the auction in the form of a Cashier’s Check, Certified Check, or Money Order only. No PayPal accepted. The car must be picked up within 30 days after close of the auction. When the funds clear my bank, you may pick it up, or have your shipper pick up the car. Until the car leaves, the title stays. I will not store the car in its locked and heated garage indefinitely without its title. When the car leaves, I can either send the title with the car, or express mail it to you when the car leaves. I will be very accommodating with you or your shipper for pickup. I will make myself available any time day or night for you to take delivery. People don’t come any more honest than I am, but unfortunetly not everybody is honest. If you are honest, you’ll understand and appreciate all of the comments and requirements that I’ve made. All bidders remember this. Before you bid, make sure you have the total funds at your disposal for the “amount you bid” plus, “any funds you need for shipping”. If you do not have the total funds available, DO NOT BID! Finally, if I have not said it or described it about the car, don’t assume it. I am very busy and have very little or no time for answering e-mail questions. Don't be offended if I don't respond right away or at all during the auction. It's sometime days before I check my e-mail. Read my description and “announcement of concern”, and bid if you’re interested. The car is being sold “as is” with no warranty, expressed or implied. For what I’m starting the no-reserve bidding at, how can you go wrong? Buy it right, enjoy it for five years and you will probably double your money when the economy turns around. Good luck!

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