Detail Info for: Well Kept Work Horse in Good Condition

Transaction Info

Sold On:
07/11/2010
Price:
$ 2950.00
Condition:
Used
Mileage:
189500
Location:
Warren, Rhode Island, 02885
Seller Type:
Private seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1999 Chevrolet Suburban
Submodel Body Type:
LT SUV
Engine:
8 Cylinder 5.7 Liter
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
1gnfk16r2xj562025
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
4 Wheel Drive
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Power Windows
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

12.00 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 http://www.saotome-associates.com/99burban/ How I came up with the Valuation and my Reserve Price According to Edmunds.com (http://www.edmunds.com/used/1999/chevrolet/suburban/100013043/options.html?tmvaction=vdpresult ) Trade-In value for a “Clean” 1999 Suburban with the comparable mileage, equipment and the condition, is about $3245, and “AVERAGE” is $2220. According to Kelly Blue Book, http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/chevrolet/suburban-1500/1999/trade-in-value/pricing-report?condition=good&id=5224&equipment=200665|true|200651|true|2729752|true|200768|true|200691|true|200679|true|200701|true|200706|true|200726|true|200719|true|200762|true|200798|true|200814|true|200838|true|200848|true|200860|true|4233636|false&mileage=189450 Trade-In value for a “Good” condition 1999 Suburban 1500 LT, with comparable mileage, equipment, and the condition is about $4225, and “FAIR” is $3625. I think the fair price is somewhere in the middle… I have taken great care of the vehicle, so I am sure that you will agree that the reserve price of $2800, and Buy-It-Now price of $2950 is very fair. Recent Work Performed or Purchase: 1. New set of 4 Mastercraft HTR highway tires (April 2010, worth $700) 2. New heavy duty front Brake Rotors and Pads (April 2010, worth $410) 3. Oil and Coolant Change (June 2010, worth $190) 4. New Battery (1 year old, out of 3 year warranty, $80) 5. New Fuel Pump (Jan 2009, $800) 6. AC Recharge (July 2010, $200) Options and Equipment (and the conditions): § Fuel-Injected 5.7 Liter Vortec V8 § Automatic Transmission with Over Drive § Cruise Control (working) § ABS (working) § Daytime Running Lights § Dual-Front Airbag (I assume it is working, since I never had a front collision) § Power Windows (all 4 windows working, however, the master switch for rear passenger side does not work. You can get a replacement switch console for about $60 on e-Bay) § Power Locks (all doors working, except the rear barn doors. You have to lock it manually, or replace the lock motor) § Power, Heated Side Mirrors (Working, but the passenger side’s heat is not working. Could be fuse) § Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS – Working) § AM/FM/CD/Clock/Cassette Radio (Original – working, knobs missing) § Intermittent Wiper (Working) § AC (Working) § Tilt Steering Wheel (Working) § Privacy Glass on the rear door § Center Console with cup holders § Towing Package with Receiver Hitch and harness with 2” ball (directional and brake lights work, when you hook up a trailer) § Auto dimming mirror with compass/temperature (working) § Garage Door opener (don’t know the condition, since I never used it. It blinks when I press the button) § Leather seats (driver side has rip on the edge, but I put leather cover on it) § Power, heated front seats for driver and passenger (power adjustment works, but not the heat) § Dual Zone (front and back) climate control (working) § Map lights (6 all together, working) § Remote Keyless Entry (need a watch battery, and needs to be programmed) § 3 Row seats (seats up to 8 adults, working fine) § Old set of 16 inch rims (Qty 2)§ Jotto Desk (Swivel/Tilt computer Desk mounted on the floor - can be removed by unscrewing it) What is NOT INCLUDED: · Thule roof rack system (sorry, I need it for other vehicle) General Condition: The overall condition is “clean” by Edmunds standard. The exterior is shiny and has the original paint. Like I mentioned, there are small scratches and dings everywhere that are too hard to tell from the pictures. There are no major dings on the body. There are two small indentation on the hood. For about $150, I was told that they can be removed by “paintless ding removal” shop. The dings were never that noticeable to the point I would have it done. I had doors done a while ago, and the results are fantastic. But, the I concluded that the hood can live with the dings. There are some areas on the doors, particularly the lower edges of the door that meet the floor, are starting to develop some rust. I put rust inhibitor paint to keep it from progressing, but it will eventually rust through. But right now, the exterior looks pretty good. If I were to keep the car, then I would keep on putting that goop to prevent it from rusting. The engine starts right away and runs great. I never had any issues with this engine, despite what some reviews on Edmunds.com may say. That is one thing I never had issue – engine and transmission. I recently had my ASE certified mechanic and paid $85 to evaluate the general condition. He came up with a list of work that needs to be done (or should be done). The tires are practically new since I replaced them in April 2010. The tred wear on the tires are rated for 60,000 miles. There are things that I know that I can tell you. However, since I did not originally purchase the vehicle, I do not know the entire history from the birth. The list of known conditions or issues: “Service Engine Soon” lights occasionally comes on – this is because the pre-heater for the catalytic converter is dead and needs to be replaced. I never bothered with it, because I was told by my trusted mechanic that sole purpose of the heater is to quickly heat the catalytic converter to an optimal temperature so that the emission is clean when you first start the vehicle. It has no negative effect on driving or fuel efficiency whatsoever under normal driving condition. Oxygen sensors in the exhaust have been replaced so that the fuel-air mix is optimal.The barn door is slightly misaligned. They will close, but the right side will not stay open, when you pull it all the way out. This is annoying, but can be fixed with a new set of bushing. Have your mechanic do that for you for less than 1 hr of labor, plus cheap bushings.Heater on the front leather seats do not workDefroster on the passenger side barn door does not work (works on the driver side)Heated Mirror on the passenger side does not work (works on the driver side)Power window switch for the rear, passenger side on the main switch cluster does not work (just the switch. The motor works, and the switch on the actual door works)Front driver side leather seat has rip on the outside seam - it was like this when I bought the vehicle in 2007. I have gray leather cover on it. It was not worth repairing at the cost of $245 by the nearby upholstery shop, but it was worth $80 to buy the cover to make it look better. This is all I know about the vehicle... Although the exterior paint looks shiny and great, especially after the wash job, there are typical dents, dings and scratches on the vehicle that you cannot really see on the photos. But, I often get complements on how the car looks for its age. It is the last year with this body style. I am making no warranty statement or certifying the condition of the vehicle. I am telling you what I know to the best of my knowledge. I paid my mechanic $85 to spend 1 hour on the vehicle. He may not have found absolutely everything. I did this so that YOU are better informed out of my courtesy. Please look at my feedback – 100% positive with close to 185 feedbacks. I don’t deliberately mislead or lie about something just make a buck and the feedback score proves it. So, you can decide if you want to deal with me or not. I am going to ask you to give me a fair price for the vehicle. I am not going to give it away, so please don’t ask me to lower the reserve price or give it to you for much less than what is worth. Payment and Terms: If bid, you are intending to buy it. If you win, you are entering into a binding legal contract. If you do not follow through on your bid and the payment, you will get a negative feedback and eBay folks will come after you. So, let’s play nice. Non-refundable deposit of $500 is required within 3 days. The balance is due within 7 days. I will accept PayPal only for the deposit. I will accept cash or PayPal for the balance. I am sorry, but I had too many people trying to use fake government issued checks, certified checks, and postal money order. The only thing I can trust at this point is cash or PayPal. If I do not hear from you or do not receive the balance within 7 days, then I will re-list the car and leave you a negative feedback. If you do not come through with the balance, then I will keep the deposit. Pickup and Shipping: You need to come pick it up, or arrange for your own shipping. Use the ZIP code 02885 (Warren, RI) for getting your quote on shipping. You need to pick it up within 15 days from the end of the auction, otherwise I will have to store it somewhere and you will end up paying the storage fee. If you are flying in to pick up the vehicle, I can meet you at the airport with the 'Burbie. You can drive home from there. The closest airport is T. F Green airport (airport code is PVD) in RI. The second closest is Boston (BOS), but it is about 1 hour away. You will have to arrange for your ride if you fly in to Boston. I have the title. You will need to make all financial and registration details in your state to drive the vehicle back, or have it shipped. I will not let you drive it without valid, properly registered dealer plate or personal plate. Zero or Low Feedback (Less than 3) Users: If you have less than 3 positive feedback rating, please contact me and speak to me first. Otherwise, I will cancel your bid – I need to do this because I get so many fraud bids and simply do not have time to deal with it. I don’t want to get burned by people who intend on harming people or the eBay community.

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