1999 Ford F-350

FX4 Crew Cab Pickup Long Bed

7.3 Diesel

Automatic

1FTSW31F2XED05086

Clear

Diesel

Perfect equestrian truck for long hauls. I have done a lot of horse shows for the ladies at the barn. They put their personal gear under the carpet kit in the rear (perhaps a bag or two on top). We drop the trailer at the show (which has all the horsey stuff). Unhook and drive to the hotel. Perfect. Since we don't like to stop, often someone will sleep on the carpeted and padded rear carpet set and be ready to take over in a few hours. It is ideal. I suspect long-haul ATV pulling and other long haul trips in which you might want to separate the trailer from the truck make this ideal -- but for equestrians this is always true on long trips. This is the best used truck for towing you will ever find. Really. It was made for that and modified further toward that end. It has gone on 5,000 mile trips hauling 12,000 lbs of horses and trailer. Yet, since it is primarily used for towing to horse shows, it has less than 142k miles -- mostly highway. We are the original owners and it comes with all maintenance receipts, original sticker, and original dealer advertising pamphlets, as well as paperwork for most of the mods and repairs. Note since I do some of the maintenance sometimes it may appear some were skipped -- none were. I just don't bill myself! Oxford White Clear Coat with Medium Prairie Tan Leather Loaded to the gills. It has: 1) The preferred equipment group (all the toys) 2) Diesel and Electronic Overdrive Transmission 3) 3.73 posi traction differentials 4) Electronic Shift on the Fly 4x4 (manual also possible in a pinch) 5) Engine Block Heater 6) Sliding Rear Window 7) Spare Tire (really – an option!) 8) Tow Mirrors 9) Off Road Package (FX4) 10) Premium Stereo (radio, cassette, CD) 11) Aero Lights 12) Roof Clearance Lights (cowboy lights) 13) 4 wheel Anti-lock brakes (option too) 14) Chrome bumpers, front leather captains chairs 15) Privacy glass 16) Trailer towing package 17) Camper package (means heavier springs, extra wiring, etc). Could add a camper easily. It has had the following modifications which are safe and very helpful when adult driven (we are adults) 1) Western Diesel 5 way flip chip (stock, tow, economy, fast, and blow black smoke) – honestly don’t remember last two official names. 2) Analog gauges that take their input mechanically (not from the Ford computer) for boost and EGT 3) Juice with Attitude nicely mounted on the left side of the dash with 5 modes (stock, tow, economy, fast, and silly fast). I don't remember the names of the top names as I rarely use them. 4) The Juice has gauges as well – from the Ford computer. They can be compared to the analog gauges and if something is wrong (e.g. wildly different numbers) I would check for problems. I have a harder time seeing the analog gauges (Hypermax). 5) They (Hypermax and Juice) can be stacked as they connect differently. When driving in town I put the Juice in stock and use the economy on the Western Diesel. When towing I use the tow mode on both, stacked. The Juice has many great features – one being that it has a programmable setting for EGT – if it is exceeded it defuels the truck thus protecting it and also screeches at you. This is rare. In 110 weather with 12,000+ trailer up 6+% grade for 10 miles (we live in a valley) it won’t defuel … unless it gets stuck behind a semi and slows to 30 mph and then you have to floor it to get it back to 75 (and yes it will do 75 in those conditions but we are conservative and usually go 65) Other than extreme hills with extreme heat you can tow pretty heavy loads at 80 all day long. I have some classic cars where the trailer plus car weighed 8-10,000 lbs and I could pull that at 110 (yes the speed limiter went missing with the chips J ). The joke is … that is the fastest they have ever gone! 6) Valve body in transmission changed to increase line pressure – mechanically. It shifts a little hard empty and like stock with 12,000 lbs behind it. 7) After market brake pads (I think “Green Stuff?”) at 104k miles. Cryo treated after market discs (Italia I think – memory foggy on brakes). 8) Toyo Open Country All Terrain tires with less than 10k miles (I think less than 5k – can’t find mileage receipt). 9) Re-routed fuel filter drain as Ford chose to dump it on the front axle making catching it in a bucket impossible. You can see in the front by one of the hooks a valve for that. No mess. Rarely need it but still nice. You cannot just chip a truck (that tows hard) and have it last long. So the following was done to reduce EGT to sane levels. 1350 degrees may not be exceeded for long although a short burst is OK and we do allow 1370 (for a minute) and are watchful. This is all programmable in the Juice with Attitude. The following EGT reducing changes were made: 1) Hypermax taper core intercooler 2) All new hoses with superior clamps (no leaks) 3) CFM+ manifold – stock is one cast piece and the exhaust goes through one side and the cool air back the other side … problem is the whole thing gets hot and raises the temps going into the engine. This is two separate pieces of different material – preventing that problem. 4) 4 inch down pipe leading to a 5 inch exhaust system. Totally legal – 99 ½ had no catalytic so it is not a “cat back” system – it is turbo to air all the way. This is rare as later 7.3 the catalytic came back. That means most modified trucks are either illegal (won't pass smog) or ineffective (cat-back is useless). And in case you did not know all cars will have to pass basic smog pretty soon – so if you live in a rural area like I do an illegally modified car/truck will bite you. 5) K&N intake of massive size and modified. 99 trucks pulled air from the fender to get air. And promptly filled with mud, water, etc. 99 ½ move to the new system – a tiny (pinky sized) whole in the front that then went through the battery box and then to the K&N. Our K&N version had an option to allow the air to come from the engine compartment (hot) to increase flow by essentially removing the battery box top. No good. So we noticed that the hole for the fender intakes was still in the sheet metal. So we cut a hole on the outside of the truck and put a scoop on it (pictures show it). We ducted it through that hole and as a consequence it dumps directly onto the K&N (this was a major EGT drop). Under hood temps went way down. Only bad thing – it does need cleaning a little more often. 6) The turbo mechanical waste gate control has been disabled and properly plugged – we want air! Stock allows 18 lbs so with the mods the waste gate would “flutter.” The computer still operates the wastegate as it did stock … it was a redundant system and with the Juice with Attitude not needed. I was conservative in programming and hardware design. Stock is 18lbs max. Ours is 28 lbs max (and that is hard to get – have to really work it). The chips manage the boost essentially. Much more and you have to change head bolts and other internal engine parts. 38lbs for sure requires major engine work. So ours is conservative and reliable. Yes, you can program it for more boost ... You can see a few other obvious mods like camper shell and carpeted interior. It has side storage units. The center can be raised for a bed or to hide things. You can store under it and sleep on top of it. In all honesty – that carpet has seen better days (mostly stains) and the camper shell has small issues with handles (hard to turn). There are no suspension mods – it is not lifted, does not have fat tires, etc. – it is made for towing. Does long distance well, and is also very good on graded roads. The stereo mods are not as obvious. It has the stock head unit but: 1) It has very nice replacement speakers – I do not remember the brand but they are very high end three way. Kenwood if I remember correctly. 2) They have cross overs with remote tweeters front and rear. They allow the built-in speakers and tweeters to work. Directional sound only comes from high notes (not bass notes - meaning the bass cross overs do not allow the bass to go to the normal speakers) so the stereo imaging is fantastic. 3) There is a giant Bazooka sub woofer behind the rear seat (which I don’t turn high, I am not a rap fan) also with cross over that does not allow the extreme bass to the mains … hence prolonging their life and keeping things from rattling so much with heavy bass -- and like I said, is non-directional so you won't notice the bass is in the rear (rear seat passengers say it gives quite a thrill :-) ). 4) The speakers (not woofer) we replaced recently due to age … the woofer is as old as the truck almost. And perfectly working. It is 19 years old – we got it in January of 1999. It has had a few “oops.” All minor and not requiring major work: 1) Bumpers – small dents, now replaced. 2) Parking lot hits on right side and driver door that took body work. You can’t see it except sometimes when I look very hard at the driver’s door I imagine I see it. I actually did the driver side at a gas station early on, opening the door into those walls that some stations used (and most do not any more). 3) Parking lot hit on left rear. This was worse than most and I insisted on a new fender and bumper. No mechanical or frame changes needed. It was hard to convince them to replace it but this is much better -- like new. 4) The worst of the worst combined with idiot mechanics and insurance company. A pack rat moved in and chewed some wires up. The symptom was sudden death – running along fine then nothing. Wait an hour, ran fine. Of course it could be after 5 miles or 60 miles. Not acceptable. Insurance insisted I take it to one of their approved shops which here meant the Ford dealer. They just plug into the OBD II and change parts. Of course with little nicks in the wiring harness all kinds of things showed up. The dealer went bankrupt. Trouble getting it back. New Dealer. Ford twice sent a top engineer from Phoenix to try and fix it (after talking to William Ford’s executive secretary). After 10k and almost two years spent by insurance and no fix in sight I finally I convinced them to let me take it to an old mechanic I know. Good thing, every single computer and sensor is brand new Ford except perhaps the oil pressure sensor on top of the block as I think the person that finally fixed it may have used a NAPA part. He does things the old way and knows my trucks as he is my regular mechanic – he removed the entire harness, laid it out on his shop bay, got his reading glasses, and traced every wire and found seven nicks that exposed metal – all potential shorts. They were properly repaired, a new wiring loom installed, back into the truck. Never a problem again and looks great. Took three days. We drive it all the time and there are no electrical problems. Bonus – all new computers and sensors. Even the recall cam sensor and way-deep oil/fuel pump, etc. Much of what Ford did is not documented (out of business, etc). But I think no computer or sensor was left unchanged. 5) I hit a large rock with the right front tire – choice was slam into a cliff on the left, go off a 100 foot drop off on the right, or hit the rock. I did get the tire on it but it dented the rim and tie rod and broke the tie rod clamp. Still drove, just a little funky! I got a refurbished wheel (cannot buy new), new tie rod, and one of the brackets. The other was not available but my mechanic welded it and said it is stronger than stock. Been six years, I believe him. Aligned also at that time. This has caused no issues and beats ripping out the oil pan! 6) Running boards get bent every so often -- and straightened – look good, not perfect. Cosmetics are awesome. The exterior looks new. The interior looks new – and smells like leather. We have carpets with factory carpet mats with rubber mats on top. No wear or stains at all except some leather patina on the rear seats – a patina issue, no cracks, no damage. Perfect headliner, dash, sun visors, etc. The front seats were re-done by an old-world craftsman (looked to be 75 or so). Unlike the original which had leather only on the seat surfaces (poor quality at that) the new leather is beautifully stitched and covers everything: seat surfaces, sides, back, and most important to me, the arm rests. I hate vinyl! Having that soft leather there is so nice. This is top quality thick but soft leather perfectly matched. All we lost was the embossed “Lariat” on the back rest (no loss). The truck was garaged most of it’s life as we built our house and it was built to fit the truck. Since we bought a new truck, outside it went. And the new one does not fit … grrrr. But we had something else to put there. It is annually professionally detailed (and we touch it up often) – hence the paint and plastic and leather is close to flawless. There are no cracks in the dash, doors, seats, etc – all protected it’s entire life. We detail for protection, not looks. Remember inside the camper shell, not so pretty. We use it, carpets stained. Also, the front grill is faded and has a crack. We did not replace it because it is expensive and for that money the new owner might want to buy one of the cool mesh grills or other fancy grills available. And it does not really show unless you are looking right at it. We are also maintenance fanatics. All maintenance done on schedule. After initial break in, it has always run Mobil 1 synthetic in the engine, transmission, and differentials. Oil changes were done on schedule as if it was Dino Oil – we use Mobil 1 15-50 which even now has the proper phosphorous and zinc to protect a diesel. It does not smoke at startup or running (unless you go nuts with the chips … once I did it and spun the rear wheels). So adult driven except once :-) It has two new batteries as of a few weeks ago. Stock was 230 hp and 380 lbs/feet torque. I can only guess from literature and how it drives – I believe it has about 325+ hp and 480+ lbs/feet torque (some say closer to 600 lbs/feet). What I do know is it will tow a giant horse trailer of 12k lbs from Phoenix to Boise at 80 mph all day long. Solid as a rock, no heating/cooling issues, etc. Trailer pulls straight and true due to the special full frame hitch. No DPF! And when adult driven and no trailer, usually shows over 20 mpg (23 generally). We can provide the name and phone number of the shop that has worked on the truck since new (there is one mechanic, the owner, that is the only one we let touch it) – if you are serious. I don’t want him bombarded. Transmission fluid last done at 114k and should be done again at 150k. Diffs last done at 138K and should also be done again at 150K. Brake pads were done at 104k and should last until 200k if driven properly. The rotors were not turned (I will not do that) – they were replaced and I cannot find receipt as I got them on Internet and forgot to save the receipt. Italia I think. Some of the maintenance got out of sync because something leaked and the gaskets were changed and we had new fluid put it. Still better to get it back on schedule at 150k even though some items are ahead of schedule now. Easier to remember. It comes with a few spares and removed parts (exhaust if you want it although it does not fit in the bed so you may have shipping issues), remainder of battery box, spare driver side mirror with cracks I added the cracks in 1999 … (works fine). Maybe fuel filters or other stuff. Not my tools, spare oil, etc. J There is nothing important that I know of that does not work perfectly or is in imminent need of repair. This is the perfect truck for someone that wants close to new but does not want to shell out 85 grand (by the time you pay tax, license, etc, that is what they cost) for a new one. It is as close to getting showroom new, with adult modifications bringing it closer to modern specs, than any truck out there. I would drive this truck anywhere with heavy trailer and no fear. It has all manuals, tools, and records, a few spares. And yes -- a 7.3 is FAR better than a 6.0 or 6.4 even though they are newer. That is why Ford and International got into a lawsuit -- the new engines were no good. This is a 1/2 million mile engine. AZ truck all it's life. No rust or rot. Better even than coastal CA cars that get salt air on them. No – we are not in a rush to sell so lowball offers are not appreciated. Probably I will ignore all low offers. Just buy it now or make a reasonably close offer. I have bought and sold a lot of cars almost since eBay started and have a perfect record. Once somebody read the above and offered me a penny less. OK, I took it. But you get the idea. I had a flake make an offer close last time I listed it ... then spent weeks of excuses – no payment. Twice! I will not stop the auction early without cash in hand. Come on equestrians! Toy haulers. Heavy equipment haulers (my cousin towed a 4800 lbs heavy equipment trailer with a 18k full sized Cat backhoe to Oregon. Yes, over specs. He was slow and careful. It is a towing beast. There is no need for a large deposit – you will either pay for the truck and pick it up on time, or you won’t. I just need a little to pay listing fees if you flake so the deposit is non-refundable. We will take any kind of payment as long as it arrives on time – wire, certified check, personal check, cash, etc. However, be aware, you won’t get the truck until the funds clear. Even certified checks take 2-3 days, personal checks 1-2 weeks. Wire transfer is the fastest if we can figure it out (and I might not be able to). Note – We can be flexible regarding payment dates and pickup dates – but you must contact me through eBay and make a written agreement so that if there is a dispute eBay can mediate anything agreed to beyond this listing. Bid to own – no reserve. You will not be disappointed.