1977 Honda Gold Wing

GL13008716

Clear

Thanks for looking at my '77 naked GL1000. It has been reconditioned with the frame off. It is not a museum restoration. It's a rider and a looker. The frame is powder coated. All the nuts and bolts replated in zinc.This bike is a survivor. I bought it out of a barn. The bike was parked when a gentleman got too old and could no longer ride.Current Texas state safety inspection and registration.Clean, current title in my name. When available OEM Honda parts were used. The points are upgraded to a newer version of the Dyna-S. Still has OEM coils. I would like to do GL1500 coils in it. The bike is in tune, timing set, valve lash adjusted, and carburetors sync'd. New plugs and plug wire boots. The brakes are new. The discs are turned and resurfaced by Trudisk. Brake pads are EBC, semi sintered. The calipers, front and rear are rebuilt with new SS pistons and hardware. It's hard to find a bike with the pad shims still there... it's got them! The brake lines are upgraded to stainlesss steel braided Teflon from Randakks. The water pump was replaced and resealed up front. The thermostat and coolant tubes services with Honda seals. The bikes temperature runs as it should. The gear shift lever shaft seal replaced.Fresh oils, fork with ATF, Delo crankcase oil, 90w differential oil, and Honda coolant. The fork seals and and wipes are new, again OEM Honda parts. Quality spin on oil filter adapter from Randakk's Cycle Shack. Uses a Mobil M1-102A filter, it's black, isn't noticeable like a orange or white filter would be and fits in well. Makes oil changes easier and less messy. The original oil filter canister is available to the buyer. I would even throw in a OEM Honda filter.The fuel filter and air filter are OEM Honda. The crankcase was flushed with 50/50 SAE 30 and ATF once then, 100 SAE 30, then a final drain, new filter and refill.The fuel tank is great , not scaled, pitted, or leaking. I didn't reseal it with various products, ha e had mixed experiences, and the tank is really that good. The petcock is a 75-76 that is rebuildable, and is resealed. Correct braided metric fuel line and Honda line clamps used. The radiator was flushed, tested, acid bathed, and repainted. New thermostat and Honda radiator cap were installed. Both timing belts where replaced in May with Gates belts, the tensioner rollers spun free. This is a must for any GL. belts, then carbs. The radiator fan works as it should. The bike currently has an AGM battery, with new Honda rubber hold down strap. Comes with a Battery Tender trickle charger lead attached. New 30 amp main fuse. All new Honda glass fuses in the fuse box. The starter has been rebuilt with Honda brushes and brush springs, and planetary gear in head repacked with grease.The tires are new, Dunlop 404's front and rear. Made in 2017. With balance beads installed.The wiring harness is in great shape. Trust me I have seen some hack jobs... the connectors are all there, minus the 7v regulator. I installed a potted aftermarket one with oem style bullet connectors. All the lights work. New Honda horn. New bulbs. The rear taillight lense is new, not cracked, and OEM Honda. There is a difference. All turn signals are good, not scratched. Not full of water. Honda rear brake light switch is new. The chrome and polish is GREAT. The forks, valve covers, and belt covers are polished.The GL has CB 750 handlebars. I would really like early CB550 short bars, but not too drag bike like. I really hated the pseudo baby ape hangers it had with the king and queen seat. I ramble on. The exhaust is stock. The header collectors NOT fused to the muffler or broken. High temp paint applied.The bike has 120 psi on all cylinders! The primary chain is not noisy. Carbs rebuild with Randakks kits, new OEM float needles and seats. Correct Honda fuel line and clips used for the air cut off. The year correct #764 carbs are present, the bike had the one barrel carb when I bought it. I have never had those work right. The “off idle stumble” fix has been performed, #62 idle air jets installed. I only run ethanol free marine gas in the bike, it saves the tank and old carbs, that were never intended to have it. The bike charges as it should. Doesn't overcharge at RPM. I have put a 10 gauge ground wire in green, from the headlight bucket to the rear frame. It ties to the headlight bucket ground to the: coil ground point, shelter frame at the headlight resistor and to the the battery negative post. Bad grounds will drive you crazy on old GL1000's... lessons learned. Lights stop working, no horn , and the bike will overcharge. Simple insurance. Gauges, tachometer, and speedometer work as they should. LED's in them as well as the warming cluster changed out. The neutral green light works as it should. I did replace the seat with a correct stock seat. The seat is in amazing shape and factory. The paint is great for a 40+ year bike.I did replace the canister/ crankcase vapor tubes with used parts. The originals dry rotted on disassembly. This bike has all the original rubber caps, covers to include the side cover tabs, the swing arm pin covers, the fork tube caps, the triple tree nut cap, handle bar cap Allen nut caps, the small wire grommet on the headlight ears on the fork tubes. There all there. Even all four radiator hose clap bolt covers! How many GL's have that?The motorcycle has matching locking, the same key works in the ignition, shelter lid, and both helmet locks. The bike will come with two keys.Has the kick start lever under the shelter with the original rubber strap. The gas tank cap gasket is new, and even has the chain with the retaining clip. The shelter sides have pins and plastic bushings as they should, as well as the retaining cables. The side cover tabs are not broken and the rubber tab bushings are present.The front side headlight reflectors and boots are present. I will be posting a video of the bike in operation, to ease any concern over performance, overheating, etc. I can understand, I’ve bought motorcycles on eBay and have worried and disappointed. The bike is for sale locally and the Auction may end early without notice. I plan to post a link to a video of the bike when I take a ride, to ease your mind of how it runs, doesn’t overheat, lights and horn working, etc. good piece of mind. A DEPOSIT is due at the end of the Auction from the BUYER TO THE SELLER in the amount of $500.00 payable by PayPal. ALL sales final, NO WARRANTY STATED, IMPLIED, OR GIVEN. I have tried to represent the bike to the best of my ability. The bike was available for a pre-purchase inspection. Please ask questions before bidding. For local pick up. BUYER to make arrangements for shipping. I can be available for the shipper within reason, please don’t have the truck here at 11 pm. I work, and it costs to take off, and need lead time to get off work. Or the shipper calls and says I’m here... I can keep th bike in storage for a short time as well, within reason, Not to exceed one moth past the close of the auction. Disclaimer I will be on my family summer vacation from July 15th to the first week August and unavailable to assist with shipping. For anything official the BUYER and SELLER will communicate via eBay for official business, i.e. the payment details, shipper’s name, date and time, plans to pick up, etc. Thanks, it keeps everyone one the same sheet of music and honest. Once paid and the payment has cleared the bank, the title will be sent to an address your provide signature required. Naturally the bike can be picked up in person, cash or after payment has cleared the bank. Please bid if you intend to buy the bike, don’t if you need permission from your significant other... I can keep it in storage within reason as well, the previous owner was kind to me in the regards. Just have a plan, and not to exceed a month. Payment in full is still due within 7 days. And thanks for looking. Again feel free to ask me.On Jun-26-18 at 11:01:00 PDT, seller added the following information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_92z8a_CH2o