1986 Toyota MR2

Coupe

1.6L 1587CC l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated

Manual

JT2AW15C9G0074855

Clear

Gasoline

* SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY * * CASH ONLY * I bought this car July 2014 as a project/fun car. I purchased the car from an older gentleman, up from the Chicago area, who was the original owner. After purchasing the car last July, I drove it locally for about 1 month before removing the original motor and transmission. Over the fall/winter/spring months I built a fresh 1.6l motor using a 4AGZE 7-rib block and head. The original 4AGE had the 3-rib block. This motor is built to handle a small turbo, hence the very low compression pistons (see below). I also have 2 sets of cams from the supercharged 4AGZE that would be used with a turbo. It is also important to note that I have converted this motor to carbs from fuel injection. Below is a list of work that I have done and a parts list as well. Removed original 4AGE Bigport Bluetop and C52 transmission Removed all components from the engine bay & boot Painted engine bay with heat resistant paint (black) New Engine Parts: 4AGZE 7-rib block, bored .5mm over 4AGZE crank shaft ACL Race Bearings Brian Crower Sportsman Forged H-Beam Rods Arias Forged 8:1 Pistons HKS Valve Springs Bigport Bluetop Cams *ALL* New Gaskets and Seals New Water Pump New Oil Pump New Oil Pan DanST Engineering Custom Aluminum Intake Manifold 2004 Yamaha RX-1 Carbs New Parts Also Installed: New High-Flow Aluminum Radiator Stoney Racing Silicone Radiator Hoses Stoney Racing Silicone Ancillary Hoses Summit Racing Vacuum Reservoir w/ Gauge Carter P4070 Fuel Pump Summit Racing Inline Fuel Filter Summit Racing Fuel Pressure Gauge Summit Racing Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Jegs 3/8" Fuel Line Excedy OEM Clutch Parts I have but *NOT* Installed AEM Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit Original Exhaust System Engine Compartment Lid Boot Lid Battery (needs to be relocated) Coolant Reservoir (needs to be relocated) Wiring Harness Rear Window Roof Visor (Broken) Parts Needed to get Car Running: HyperPak Ignition or an MSD equivalent Oil Pressure Gauge Tube for Fuel Filler Neck Spark Plugs Notes On Final Components That need Installed Oil Pressure Gauge - The car will need an Oil Pressure gauge at the very least; my plan was to install a Water/Oil/Volt setup along with the Air/Fuel gauge. Battery - My original plan was to relocate the battery to the frunk (Front Trunk), which can be done easily. It could also be relocated to the boot, behind the engine compartment. Either space is fine, most guys opt for the frunk to help with weight distribution. The original mounting location was next to the fuse box in the engine compartment, which I removed when work was started. Fuel Filler Tube - Because of the routing of the new fuel line, the original hard pipe for the fuel filler neck cannot be installed back into the original location. My plan was to purchase new rubber tubing from any hardware store and attach it to the fuel filler door. Ignition - Due to the carb conversion that I have done, aftermarket ignition must be used in order for the engine to fire properly. This can be solved by simply using a HyperPak Performance Ignition module or an MSD equivalent. I opted for the HyperPak solution since it is the most simplest by allowing you to use the stock distributor. Engine Oil & Coolant - The engine must be filled with oil and the coolant system filled as well. Engine Assembly Lube - Permatex Ultra Slick Assembly Lube was used on *ALL* bearings. The oil pump is packed with Lucas Oil Stabalizer for a good prime. Wiring Harness - The engine compartment wiring harness is removed and needs installed. Since the fuel injection system has been removed, there is no need for the ECU and a multitude of other connections to be made. It is only a matter of connecting the basic connections for battery, alternator, water temp, etc. Rear Window Roof Visor - The Roof Visor was broken when removed. These being sold on eBay if you wish to replace. Summary I spent 3 months planning this build out on paper before turning a wrench on this car. You can rest assured all the work done has been done right. I take pride in my work and hobbies and this car is no exception. however, Please keep in mind that this is a *project* car. You may encounter little things here and there that I may have not known about while getting the few remaining things back together. I have kept most, if not all of the parts that have been removed but no longer needed. Mostly, from the fuel injection system and other stock components I felt weren't necessary. It is also important to note that I have removed the A/C components from the car. I do have the original block and head. All of these things are part of the purchase. Also, the body is in fair/good condition. The worst area is behind the passenger side rear tire. There is cracking body filler (bondo) and a good amount of rust. I work as a painter and giving the car a fresh coat of paint and body work was on my list of things to do, just not before all of the mechanical things had been done. I'm selling the car because I would like to start doing small paint jobs and repairs from home. My garage is very small and having both a project car and painting out of my garage is just not possible. Some of the pictures I've included were before work was started on the car. It is currently sitting on jack stands and the buyer would need to provide a low profile floor jack to get the car back on the ground.