1970 BMW 2002

Sedan

2.0L 1990CC 121Cu. In. l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspir

Manual

1667248

Clear

GAS

This is a rust-free California 1970 bimmer that's in remarkable condition with many tasteful mods. I've owned the car since 2005, and in 2007 I got completely carried away with a very expensive restoration/refresh. (I'm hesitant to use the word “restoration”, as the word is heavily overused, and means different things to different people). I would say that about 80-85% of the car was rebuilt in one form or another. I pretty much disassembled the car completely. The only things that were not touched were the dashboard, heater box, wiring harness, and the headliner, Everything else was examined carefully before re-using, rebuilt, replaced or upgraded. I've driven this car as my primary daily driver ever since. There's 44,000 miles on the rebuild/restoration. (I also own a 1974 Bavaria and a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser). I've been retired for three years, and have wanted to sell it since, because I need to cull the herd to save on expenses. This is the least practical of my three cars (but the most fun), so it's got to go. I've had difficulty pulling the trigger, but it's got to go... Before I list the the work done and the upgrades, let me explain my vision for the car – I wanted a fast, clean “sleeper” that retained the original period look without too many obvious hot-rod attributes. I was not particularly concerned with “originality”. You'll see little things like the black wheel wells, that the purists might throw up over, so if you're looking for numbers-matching “correctness”, this car isn't for you. However, you can see that it is true to the original design, with modern modifications that improve performance, economy and comfort. This is one hell of a fun car to drive, and is economical and easy to maintain, and doesn't look like a hard core street racer. It's very fast. It has adequate low end torque for every day driveability but really screams starting at a roughly 4000 rpm, from there it quickly redlines compared to the more pedestrian stock motor. I've never had it dyno'ed, but this car is definitely faster than a stock tii (I know because I used to own a low-mileage well tuned example), so I estimate the horsepower at 135-140. I've invested over $27,000 including the price of the unrestored car in 2005. I've done most of the labor myself. Yes, it's crazy expensive to restore a car. The many bits and pieces add up quickly. I'm not going to list everything, but if you have a question, just ask. I believe my reserve is very reasonable. I know I'm not going to get anything close to what I've spent. My loss is your gain. The odometer reads 38,500. It was roughly 82,000 when I bought it. At that time, I assumed that the odometer had turned over once already. However, when I disassembled the car, I wasn't so sure. It was in remarkably good shape, so it is entirely possible that there is currently only 138,000 total miles on the car. I suspect that at one point the car had sat for a few years, because the only place I could find rust was in the plenum on the passenger side, probably from leaves and debris collecting. I cleaned it up to bare metal in that spot and it's now perfect. However, I cannot vouch for the miles. What I can tell you is that it's a really tight, super clean car, even though there's over 40,000 miles since I did the major work. Exterior: Two stage Dupont Chromabase base coat, with Urethane topcoat (unknown brand) Finish paint was done by Bob's AutoBody in Pasadena, CA. Note the straight door panels and roof lines. A lot of care was taken to get these right. Original Granada Red, no color change. Door jambs, engine compartment and trunk was repainted. All trim and windows were removed prior to painting. Rechromed bumpers with new rubber overiders New rubber door and window seals (note: the passenger side door seal has deteriorated somewhat, because I had purchased an original New Old Stock and it's old. All new belt-line trim New window felt Cibie H1/H2 lamps with auxiliary high beams, all on new wiring with relays New windshield (replaced within last year) Interior Reupholstered Recaros, with the back seat repholstered to match. The work was done by Ardvaark racing. These were done in German vinyl, and are soft an supple. You won't find better seats. These are absolutely beautiful Square weave wool carpet Rebuilt, recalibrated speedometer Extra gauge cluster Kenwood head unit with auxiliary iPod jack (older model, will charge an iPod but not an iPhone, but it will read and play an iPhone. Four 5X7 Polk speakers, mounted under dash and under package shelf with no exposed visible speaker grilles. 1000W amplifier under back seat Kenwood low-profile bass unit under passenger seat Like new, period correct Hi-Fi Personal Steering wheel Three point seat belts in front, weld mounted to the B-Pillar. Engine: Completely rebuilt9.0 compression MaxSil pistons (Actual compression is estimated to be about 9.3:1 because of shaved head Engine Block is from a 1975 2002, and was bored to match oversize pistons. E12 port-matched head, all new rocker shafts, valve guides and other stuff Ireland 292 Reground camshaft 02Again Header and downpipe Megasquirt II 3.57 running MSExtra firmware E30 318i Intake manifold E30 318is in-tank fuel pump and fuel rail 19lb injectors 36-1 toothed wheel, distributor block off plate, fuel pump block off plate and Idle Intake Valve, all made by 02Again EDIS Ignition Spal Electric Fan Silicon Garage high-capacity radiator Relocated Battery. Two Hawker-Odessey batteries mounted under rear seat, with E30 Cable and Terminal (these are really powerful and long lasting dry-cell batteries. Others have reported that one of these batteries is sufficient for a 2002. I went the distance and installed two) E-30 80a alternator Drive Train: Lightened Flywheel Perfect, ultra smooth clutch – no hopping. New pressure plate, disk etc. Known low-mileage E21 five speed. Smooth shifting, absolutely no typical second gear crunch rebuilt driveshaft rebuilt 3.91 Limited Slip Differential (work done by Aardvark Racing) Repacked Constant Velocity Joints with new boots. Super Lite wheels, Brand new Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 195/60r14 (less than 1000 miles) Brakes: All new hard lines and stainless flex lines New tii master Cylinder tii Booster New pedal box bushings and other misc hardware Ireland Engineering Big Brake kits – Vented front disks with Volvo calipers and 320i drums in back Suspension: ST springs Bilstein shocks Ireland Engineering Anti-sway bars front and back Ireland tii Engine compartment brace All new bushings Exhaust: Ireland Engineering stainless exhaust system. It's well fitted and never needs to be tweaked. However, the front silencer is not original, I had it replaced with a Magnaflow stainless steel can because the original was rattling. Apparently the internal welds had failed. I want the new owner to be completely satisfied with the purchase. This is not a perfect car, nor was it professionally restored, but I take a lot of pride in everything I do, and I believe that I've done a hell of a good job. I encourage you to see the car in person, or have someone inspect it for you. It may be too late, but I'll have the car at the SoCal Vintage BMW show on Saturday, Oct 11. Have one of your SoCal enthusiast friends check it out for you. I also will provide the leftover base coat, so you don't have to color-match if you need to repair or touch up. I think I have almost two quarts (unreduced), which is a lot. If you live in California, this stuff is hard to get. Full Disclosure: Here are the known issues. The car has been in a a couple of minor fender-benders, but I guarantee that the frame is straight. The tires wear evenly and the car tracks straight as if on rails. Two of the events happened on my watch. The left front fender was replaced as a result of a teen-age texter turning in front of me one month after I got the car back on the road. The other was my high-school daughter failing to put the car in gear and not setting the handbrake while parking on a hill, resulting in a damaged rear quarterpanel. Pics of this repair is posted on photobucket (see below). As a result of the former, the driver's side grille doesn't match the passenger exactly. The driver's side has the deeper headlight housing, and isn't quite the high quality of anodizing (I spent a fortune having the original grilles re-anodized). Oh well, if you drive your cars, something is bound to happen eventually. If you have teen age kids, don't bid on this car. They'll find it's extremely effective at attracting members of the opposite sex, so you'll find it impossible to keep them from driving it. I suspect that the right front fender was replaced before I bought the car. It looks good, but it is short of perfect. There's a few little tell-tales that give me suspicion, but if didn't mention any of this, you may not have noticed, depending on your eye for this sort of thing. I consider it a quality repair. A few years after restoration, a rust bubble developed on the drivers door. After disassembling, the culprit was cracked seam sealant on the bottom of the door. So water that normally exits via the drain holes, soaked into the cracked seam and rusted through. I cut out the rusted area and welded in a new patch. It's perfect. Again, you wouldn't notice if I hadn't disclosed. There's an intermittent problem with the fast idle control. What happens is that infrequently, the idle will suddenly race to about 2000 rpm. This happens maybe once a month at the most. I have no idea what's causing it, maybe it's a faulty coolant sensor, or maybe a Megasquirt issue with hardware or firmware. It's no big deal because it happens so infrequently. I've lived with it for years. The remedy is to just shut the engine off and turn it back on and you're good to go, or wait a bit and it goes away. It's never happened when cruising at a steady state, either because the driver can't notice it, or because it perhaps corrects itself before the driver has a chance to notice. Again, no big deal. The dash unfortunately cracked a couple of years ago, in spite of being always garaged. It was perfect until that happened. There's one crack. There are some barely detectable minor scratches near the gas filler. My fault, I brushed a rubber bumper on a Mercedes. It's possible that these could be wet-sanded out, but I didn't want to mess with it, you really have to look hard to see the problem. There are a few minor road rash chips, very few. There are a few minor reverse dings from stuff rattling around in the trunk. I was a little sloppy at times. The number three cylinder runs a little wet. It's never been a problem, I've never fouled a plug, but I run a hotter plug in that cylinder just in case. It burns a bit of oil, but all M10s do. I check it from time to time and put in a half-quart when the dipstick gets half way. Compression is good, but I can't quote the numbers. I did it a couple of years ago, and misplaced the record. If you insist, I'll do a check for you. You may have some concerns about the Megasquirt. You really should not ever have to touch it. It's well tuned, very drivable, gets great gas mileage (I've consistently logged 29-30 miles per gallon on the highway for the first couple of years. I haven't checked in a long time). Now that it's set up, if you wanted to tweak the fuel or spark tables, or adjust the electric fan temp, or the cold start parameters, that's pretty easy. I can show you or someone on the BMW2002 FAQ would be glad to help. There weren't too many megasquirters when I took this on, but since then there is quite a body of knowledge applicable to the 2002. Unless you're completely computer-phobic, you should be able to learn the basics in no time. The communication cord is tucked under the dash, so it's very easy to plug in your laptop if you wish to do so.That's all I can think of. Please contact me if you have questions. I can be reached on six hundred twenty six, - three hundred fifty-five - six thousand four hundred and seven at home or use the same area code and punch three hundred and ninety – seven thousand nine hundred to reach me wherever I may be. My name is John Capoccia, and you can email me on my gmail account by putting a dot between my first and last name. You can view some additional photos at http://s108.photobucket.com/user/jpcapoc/library/Cars/Granada%20bimmer Happy Bidding! On Oct-13-14 at 23:35:23 PDT, seller added the following information: Additional Information: A few new pics are posted on photobucket, in a new folder labeled October 13 There are two videos added to photobucket in the same folder. One is a walk-around, the other is just an external shot accelerating in the mountains near my house. I apologize if the first is a bit grainy, I had to reduce the resolution to be able to upload. I also found a few more restoration photos and added them to the "old" folder. One is of the batteries and amplifier under the back seat. It's worth looking at, I think the batteries are a pretty cool and innovative upgrade (not my idea, I copied a fellow enthusiast) and is definitely better than the trunk relocation. It provides better balance and doesn't waste valuable trunk space. Because they're dry cells, they require no maintenance and they don't leak. I neglected to mention that the car has an S14 starter, which is a more powerful and more dense (smaller) than the original. A great upgrade The car also has cocoa mats. They're a bit worn, but they're the reason the carpets still look like new. More disclosures: I neglected to mention that the reverse lights don't work as they should, I wired in a workaround with a toggle switch. They worked when I bench tested before I installed the tranny. It's a brand new switch. Also, the interior light is not actuated by the passenger door. The wires fell into the space behind the switch, and I could not fish them out. I got impatient and said the hell with it. With a little more determination and a steady hand, this could be fixed, and so can the reverse switch be fixed. There's also a small oil leak. Every couple of days there's a spot on the garage floor. It's relatively minor. Most M10's ooze some oil. A friend of mine had his professionally rebuilt and the rear seal leaked right from the get-go, so it's nothing unusual especially since there's 40K on the motor. I'm pretty sure it's the main seal. When the car is pushed hard, it seems to throw a bit of oil and it will burn against the header, so you'll get a whiff every now and then. You'll seldom detect it while driving normally, but you will get that whiff from time to time. Check out the acceleration video, it doesn't smoke out the tailpipe. Here, I'm under hard acceleration, foot to the floor and redlining it, and de-accelerating from redline. Again, please ask questions. I've answered many, and want to be sure that you're bidding with confidence.