1967 Mercury Other

Coupe (2-Door HT)

289 V8

Automatic

7H15C565571

Clear

Gasoline

You are looking at a 1967 Mercury Cyclone 2-Door HT, 135,516 miles (not true of various major components), 289 4-Barrel, Cruise-O-Matic Trans, Power Steering, Power Brakes. This car is absolutely ready for summer cruising with no work required. My goal over the 6 years I have owned it has been safety, the driving experience, appearance and sound. I am going to describe it by system in completely honest terms, both good and bad, so you will know exactly what you are getting, should you make a bid. Engine: All good news! Professionally rebuilt 18 months and about 1000 miles ago. Machine shop baked/cleaned block and heads, bored .030 over, all new pistons, valves, bearings, seals, etc. Car does not drip! Rebuilder then installed new 4-barrel Holley carb on Performer intake manifold, new water pump, fuel pump, electric choke, electronic ignition, rebuilt oil drain plug (pan was stripped). Also recored radiator and installed all new intake and exhaust bolts and studs. I want to emphasize that this is not a rebuild to create a racing engine. The old 2-barrel carb was unserviceable, and the rebuilder recommended the 4-barrel setup with a matching camshaft for best driveability and a little better performance. Electronic ignition is pretty much standard with a rebuild. Engine now runs smoother than ever, both at idle and while driving. Starts up immediately when warm, within 5-10 seconds from cold. Best of all, possibly, if you are a cruiser, it runs cooler than before and did not overheat in either the Woodward Dream Cruise or the Hines Park Cruise last summer, on very hot days!Trans. and Driveline: Trans. Professionally rebuilt 4years ago; I told them to make it like new. Guess they did. It now works flawlessly and shifts smoothly yet crisply. No leaks. Pinion nose seal replaced, 1 axle bearing replaced.Brakes: 4-wheel drums, Power-Assisted. Work extremely well and stop the car quickly and with virtually no pull. (Took me 5 years to accomplish that!) Entire system - all lines, hoses, Master Cyl, wheel cylinders, shoes are new within 5 years; booster professionally rebuilt, drums turned, only piece not new is the pedal - - and you can tell it is good. Frt. cable of parking brake replaced.Steering: Inner and outer tie rods and sleeve new. Lwr ball joints replaced. Strut rods replaced. All bushings at front frame mount new.Suspension: One front coil replaced. Four new shocks. Front stabilizer bushings replaced. Car rides very well, sits level, and to the best of my knowledge tracks straight and true. Very comfortable and stable at freeway speeds.Interior: New carpet. New front seat trim over new pads, professionally done. Rear seat has no issues. Door and quarter trim panels look new. Instrument panel crash pad not cracked, has minor flaw in speaker grille area. Headliner will need to be replaced at some point; it has mouse holes from storage before I got it. I installed shoulder belts (mounting provisions were built in by law in 67), but they are green. I bought them on e-bay and thought they were black (could not find red!). They work fine, but you may wish to replace them; new belts custom made are available from an outfit called Snake Oil Products somewhere in Texas, Good products but not cheap, hence the green. Sorry! Car has original AM radio, to which I added an FM converter. Radio works ok when parked, but not well while driving. I don't know why; I suspect the antenna. Rear package shelf is water-stained and discolored. There are small rust holes at the bottom outboard corners of the rear glass, and when I wash the car a little water runs in. I believe it may have ruined a (new) rear speaker; it does not work well, at any rate. Clock does not work. Windshield washers do not work that I know of. Wipers do work, new motor and new blades. All windows move up and down freely. Driver's door glass is tight to quarter glass when rolled all the way up, and pulls when door is opened. Driver's door glass hangs up a little when rolling up in last 2". All lights work, hi and lo beams, turn signals, etc. Trouble light in trunk does not work.Body: I wish I could tell you this car has no rust and never has had, but that is not the case. When I got it 6 years ago, the trunk floor and rear structural rails looked like Swiss cheese. I had to have the entire rear underbody structurally repaired before I was comfortable driving the car. I can see there has been body repair in the quarter panels and I had to repair a spot in the front of the hood. The sides of the car in addition to the hood have been repainted since I have had it; the sides had an ugly black molding running full length, and when I removed it, of course paint came off, too. There are a few chips here and there, but nothing serious. I had a new black vinyl roof installed. Some of the exterior roof moldings are pitted. There is surface rust on the underbody, and I can see perforations on the extreme lower edges of the fenders, underneath the battery tray, and surrounding what was a brake line retention screw hole. All these are non- structural. I have included underbody photos for your review.Exhaust: The crowning glory of this car, all-new dual exhaust with crossover pipe and chrome exhaust tips. Looks and sounds absolutely fantastic; not too loud, just the perfect muscle car sound! It really is good.If you have any questions let me know and I will get right back to you. I have enjoyed this car and spent a whole bunch of money on it (which I am not asking for!) but I am going to move along to something different. This is a really good car, and will serve you well right off the bat. And one of the most truthful and straightforward listings you will read for a '60's car! Thanks for looking.