Detail Info for: Oldsmobile : Cutlass 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S NO RESERVE

Transaction Info
Sold On:
09/23/2011
Price:
$ 2825.00
Condition:
Mileage:
133099
Location:
Williamston, MI, 48895
Seller Type:
Private seller
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Submodel Body Type:
-
Engine:
8 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
336778m174072
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
No Reserve For sale is my project car. This would be an excellent builder for those of you that are into restoring classic cars. This particular car has never been hot rodded, drag raced, or hacked up. It spent most of its life in Colorado until 2007 when I purchased it and moved it to Michigan. Colorado does not apply salt to their roads in the winter and it shows. The underbody is in great condition relative to the age of the vehicle. You will not find much flaky rust and rot on the frame or floor pans. Most of the observed rot in the fenders and quarters is from rain water. Please review the listing carefully and happy bidding! Title In Hand Original Dealer Invoice (12/2/1967) Point of Origin: Hesselgesser’s, INC. Grand Island, NE Original Manual Original Protection Plan and Plate Mechanical Specs Rocket 350. 2 bbl Rochester. #5 Cylinder Heads Jetaway 2 Speed Automatic (This is NOT a powerglide. BOP did not install Powerglides in any of their vehicles!) 2:73:1 10 Bolt Open Differential Single Exhaust (Looks original) Bucket Seats Column Shifter (Odd to see this with buckets. *shrugs*) Power Steering Powered Front Disc Brakes 14” Rally Wheels. End caps missing. Air Conditioning Recent Maintenance Brakes Originally a 4 wheel drum brake car. I converted it to front discs using reproduction parts from inline tube and disc spindles salvaged from another Oldsmobile. Front: Lines, Hoses, Calipers, Pads, Discs, Bearings Back: Lines, Wheel Cylinders, Shoes, Drums, Hardware Everything else: All lines & hoses, proportioning valve, master cylinder, booster Engine Ignition: Points, Condenser, Rotor, Cap, Plug Wires, Plugs, MSD High Vibration Blaster Coil, Dwell & Timing Set properly Fuel: Holly Fuel Pressure Regulator, Pressure Gauge, Fuel Filter, Rochester 2bbl was fully overhauled with a rebuild kit (gaskets, accelerator pump, needle & seat, check balls). Other: Starter Motor, Battery Problems If you are going to read any section before bidding make it this one! I have tried to document the defects with pictures to the best of my ability. If you have any further questions please ask before bidding! Rot in Front Driver Fender and both rear quarters Trunk pan rusted out. (Other floor pans are solid) Interior vinyl torn and cracked Crack and scratch in windshield Rust in some spots around rear window trim molding Oil leaks out of intake manifold end seals. There is also oil creeping up some of the intake manifold bolts. The engine probably burns a little oil too, but I cannot verify this as I have not driven the car extensively. However, it is common for a Rocket 350 of this age to have worn valve seals. If this is the case some oil can sneak past the valves and enter the combustion chamber. If it is any consolation, no blue smoke can be seen exiting the tail pipe. The air conditioning does not work. None of the hardware is missing or disconnected, the system is simply out of refrigerant. Read: The compressor and clutch are NOT seized up. No pipes or hoses are cut or disconnected. The choke does not work very well. It *works*, but tends to get stuck or close at different positions with each cool down cycle. It looks like the bimetallic strip and linkage is pretty much shot. The people who run this website make a nice electric choke conversion part. (www.carbsonly.com/carbs/carbschoke.1.htm) The gas gauge works intermittently. ??? Sometimes it reads the correct level, other times the needle goes way past the full mark regardless of quantity of fuel in the tank. Transportation/ShippingThis vehicle does start and run (and stop). As I mentioned before, the choke is not working well, so it can be difficult to start cold if you don't take the air cleaner off and push the choke closed with your fingers. It is in good enough working order that the buyer could drive it home. However, I would be uneasy about driving it more then a couple hundred miles without a buddy following in case of a break down. FWIW: when I purchased it in 07 I drove it 1000+ miles from Colorado to Michigan in one go without a buddy following me. Not recommended, but it did work. I cannot assume any responsibility for break downs. If you do not feel comfortable driving this car use a flat bed trailer. Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4