Detail Info for: 1913 Model T Ford Speedster CORRECT 1913 BRASS CAR!!

Transaction Info
Sold On:
07/12/2010
Price:
$ 6350.00
Condition:
Used
Mileage:
999999
Location:
phoenix, AZ, 85022
Seller Type:
Private seller
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1913 Ford Model T
Submodel Body Type:
Speedster Convertible
Engine:
4 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Unspecified
VIN:
193904
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
OK, boys, this is a REAL AUCTION and this car is getting SOLD. This will make someone a really excellent excellent car. I have owned Model T's for over 40 years and have had quite a few Brass cars. And this one as it sits is a lot better than most cars I have owned. I was looking for a set of Buffalo wheels recently and saw this car, and it had a set of Buffalos on it, along with a Ruxtell rear end. The price was right, so I bought it, took the Buffalos off it and put them on my 1911, pulled the Ruxtell out of the Speedster and put it in my 1915, then put my newly restored round felloe wheels and tires from my 1911 on this Speedster, and put the rear end out of my 1915 on this Speedster. So now I need to sell the speedster. This is a really nice 1913. The chassis under the Speedster is all correct 1913 to my knowledge, except it has a 1915 rear end it, but I am including a pair of excellent 1913-14 rear end riveted housings in this auction, so you can change out the housing with the correct ones if you want. Now, the wheels on the Speedster are off my 1911 Torpedo, and the new Gray tires were bought brand new by me just last February 2010, and have never been run. So the tubes, flaps, and tires are new, and cost me more than $1200. I spent 2 weeks restoring the 4 original wheels, they are correct 30x3 in the front and 30x3.5 in the back. The hubs up front are the early thin shoulder type, and one hub still has the roller bearings in it. The only issue with the wheels short of being perfect looking is that 2 hubs have some buggered hubcap threads so they need to be worked with a thread file which i have been too busy to do. The chassis has the early frame (with the cast brackets on the rear cross member), correct tapered leaf springs, a one (not 2) piece drive shaft, correct front end, etc. The coil box is a wooden KW, the steering column is a correct 1911-12 style with the correct quadrant and control rods, the windshield is a Rand brand, supported by 1911 torpedo style brass rods that come straight down from the windshield. The hood is an original, and all 4 fenders are straight and with the correct 4 rivet pattern on top. The car was built with no expense spared in the early 1980's and was run in the 1984 Arizona Governor's Cup race, which I think is a 500 invitational race around the State of Arizona 500 miles in length. The car finished First in its class, and I saw the large trophy the former owner had at his house. So, it was a running machine. The 1913 engine fully rebuilt about 1983, race run in 1984, and then the car was stored from about 1988 until about 6 months ago. The gentleman started it up, and decided to sell it as he was in no condition or frame of mind to drive it anymore. The engine has a cast date of february 10, 1913, and looks all correct except for the NH carb on it. Please note it even has a correct long-nosed "teacup" pan 3 rivet pan, that's lovely ad rare, and probably worth $4-500 itself. It did have a ring gear and starter installed, so no cranking is necessary. The lettered pedal on the transmission are correct. The body was built by a Phoenix cabinet maker using the metal seat off a 1912 METZ Roadster. It's lovely. There is also a hand made hardwood tool chest on the back deck, along with a torpedo style gas tank with brass plated hold down straps.The car needs pain, at least the fenders should be painted. The front fenders are in primer. The running boards have some drill holes that need to be welded before you paint them. The haedlights are ones I had and put on the car, a pair of original E&J 1913-14 headlights with good bonnets and bodies, no burners or reflectors, and could use a pair of new rims, but easily repaired. I think with a couple of days work, you are on the road with this car. I would keep it, but don't have the room.There are also a few misc. extra parts. This car has a clear Arizona title that says it's a "1912" but must be an old typo because it is obviously a 1913. Please give me a call if you have any questions, 602-509-1582, as I can talk a whole lot better than I can type. Thanks. On Jul-05-10 at 20:15:56 PDT, seller added the following information: Forgot to mention that the Brass radiator was purchased from Brassworks in the 1980's and it still looks virtually perfect; the radiator cooling fins are not buggered at all, and has the gas headlight tube in the back. This one has the Ford Motor tag on the back side, very nice, and Brassworks doesn't put those on their T radiators anymore. Also nice winged ford motometer with brass wings, brass is toned to match radiator. Radiator is just toned to a nice perfection, as is the brass windshield, brass support rods, brass rear view mirror, and the steering gear quadrant. Personally I would not polish the brass, it's "patina", not corrosion. Also all the shackles are the oiler type with the brass oilers, and don't show any wear to the naked eye. There is one thing that I would do, which is to get some better coils for the coil box. There are 4 repo coils in the box now, which are a sort I haven't seen before with a full plastic case. I don't like them at all. They seem to be way out of adjustment, or fried, so you'll need to get some better coils. On Jul-05-10 at 20:27:04 PDT, seller added the following information: The seat is leather covered and is not damaged. Nice.On Jul-06-10 at 03:43:57 PDT, seller added the following information: Both front and rear springs are the correct tapered style, the fan is an original brass hub fan, the crank handle is the correct one with the aluminum handle.