2001 Chrysler 300 Series

Sedan

3.5L V6

Automatic

2c3ae66g31h596896

Clear

Gasoline

Check out in-depth video of the car: https://youtu.be/KVzdSdvzovA Selling the family car. It’s a sad and somewhat frustrating thing to sell a car you love, but it must be done. We simply don’t need it anymore and it’s time to move on from the first car I was really proud to own. It’s a 2001 Chrysler 300M with every option available, including Side Airbags, Performance Handling Group, 16-speaker premium sound with four CD-changer/cassette and added AUX-input, sunroof, real California Walnut trim on dash/doors/steering wheel, 17” chrome wheels including matching full-size spare, Autostick transmission, etc. It has everything, was the very top of the line at the time it was sold. Originally owned by a Chrysler executive, we believe, and purchased it in 2003 with 10k miles on it. The car currently has about 118k miles on it and we have full maintenance and repair records from 10k to present. I’ll release them to the buyer once I redact any lingering credit card info, etc. Major repairs in that time were: Head gasket was done 2011, brake lines and radiator about 2013, battery was new last year or so. It’s still on the original shocks/struts so those were going to be next before we sent it off to college with a kid, but have decided to replace it instead before tuition bills start appearing. Cosmetically, it has the expected wear and tear but nothing excessive. All the seats are in good condition but the dash does have a crack on the passenger side. There are only a couple small rust spots, neither of which is structural or significant (shown in video.) The car was hit in a minor rear-end about 3 years ago and received a new rear bumper cover and deck lid--the latch mounting plate was bent. Nothing structural. There’s a rub mark on the passenger front door and one on the rear passenger door as well—see the video for all the details. Two keys/fobs, all floor mats, manual, etc. are all included. Everything on the car works. That’s the short and long answer. AC is cold, transmission is smooth, exhaust is good, motor is strong, brakes are strong and have good pads/rotors all around. All power accessories work. I even have a few spares you’re welcome to, including seat motors, brake pads, tire, wheel, climate control unit, etc. This was a front-line family car (predominantly driven by my wife) until the inspection ran out about a month ago. We spent our time shopping its replacement rather than getting it inspected and then were off on vacation… and now it just needs to go. We don’t need it and I’m not interested in messing with getting it through the PA inspection now that it’s past due. Here’s what I expect it needs: One of the front tires needs to be replaced, if not both--have to be matched anyway. Good news for you—I’m including two good Michelin tires with the sale (one already mounted) for that purpose. Rear tires are good. The trouble is one front wheel has a stuck lug nut which I can’t get off. I don’t have the proper tools to muscle it free and if I damaged the wheel it would become stuck in my garage indefinitely and I don’t need that drama. I also am not interested in paying someone to liberate that lug nut and then still have to deal with getting the tires mounted, inspected, etc; again, I’d rather just have it find a new home. Better that you pick it up and maybe you do it yourself or have a buddy do it and you get a great car at a good price. The current tires are good enough to get your through until the snow flies and maybe they’d pass, I really don’t know—but drives fine in the meantime. PA state inspection does not require emissions if the car does under 5000 miles a year… and we’re at about 4900 at the moment, so you get a freebie on that if you do it ASAP. That’s also the main reason why I’m listing this on eBay and not Craigslist—to keep the miles down! Last time I sold a car on Craigslist it was a major hassle and I accumulated a lot of time/miles from buyers that weren’t serious. Anyway-- It should pass any emissions test, but at this selling price $50 saved is $50. Bottom line: This is a great car. I’m a little frustrated that I don’t have the time to mess with it, but there’s just no point in expending the time/effort to get back to 100% when it won’t make any difference to the sale price on a car of this model year. And yet, this car has MANY more miles left on it. It is a superb highway cruiser (just did a 700-800 mile road trip without any issue) and great commuter with the best seats I’ve ever had—including on my newer car. In a perfect world we’d keep it, but we just don’t have the space and I can’t risk fixing it DIY only to strand it in my garage. Terms of sale are cash only. I’ll meet you at title/tag place of your choice (local to me in Wexford just north of Pittsburgh, PA) to transfer the title. It has about 5 gallons on board at the moment. You’ll sign a very simple “as is/where is” bill of sale and off you’ll go! This car will drive wherever you need it to go, no distance is a problem, no drama. It’s a good car and we’re sad to see it go… but it’s time.Any other questions, just ask-- but most are probably answered in the video: https://youtu.be/KVzdSdvzovAUPDATE: Now that it's posted I see eBay VIN check says 3 owners-- the car is jointly titled with my wife, so I think that's where the third owner comes from. We are the 2nd owners. On Jul-10-17 at 17:51:34 PDT, seller added the following information: NOTE: In case terms were not clear, title transfer expenses are paid by the buyer.On Jul-11-17 at 16:35:02 PDT, seller added the following information: I answered one of the questions below with a second follow up that had additional info incl. photos of the invoices, but because I'd already answered it eBay won't allow me to post anther answer. SO... here's what I sent with regards to specifics on some repairs (minus the pictures): Okay-- I'm limited as to how many additional pics I can post-- but here's the quick overview of some of the requested items and a couple I found on the way worth noting-- see pics for details on some, by mileage. 61K: new brake lines. 68k: new tierods inner/outer. 71k: thermostat, belt tensioners, water pump, timing belt. 80k: head gasket. 100k: radiator and all belts. 105k: front hub bearings. 109k: front rotors, pads. (I did rears recently too but not sure when... it's in there somewhere. 112k: upper and lower radiator hoses. Happy to answer any other questions you have-- but I think those were the specifics (and then some) you asked for. For reference, remember this is a 2001 with 118k so we're talking about 6-7k miles a year on average and most of our miles were earlier on. This past year it dwindled to just under 5k and for that amount of use we just don't need to keep it here. It needs to be exercised more frequently than we're doing. Thanks for your question and interest!On Jul-12-17 at 06:35:07 PDT, seller added the following information: It seems when I answer questions with pictures, I can't "share" them below automatically-- so I'll just keep adding revisions here so everyone can see the answers. Obviously the pics won't copy over, but you can ask for them privately if you desire. Latest question/answer-- though I'll also add that my shoulder is recovering from injury so that added to lack of interest in pursuing the nut further: Hi, Can you tell me more about the stuck lug nut? How long has it been like that, and what all have you tried? Sure. The front brakes were done at 109K and the car has 118k on it now. I don't remember if the front wheel has been taken off since then, but -- by miles-- it hasn't been on there that long. I had that picture in my sent box from another questioner, but don't have it in front of me now-- I can get you the date later if you want, but since I cropped the picture to leave out personal info you can't see the invoice date now. I'd guess that it was probably May 2016, since that's when the inspection (also on invoice) is normally due. I've been replacing lug nuts as needed for a while now (I think there's probably a half dozen good ones, including new, included in the box in the trunk). The Chrysler lug nuts are chrome-capped with steel underneath. What happens is they get moisture between the cap and the nut and the steel rusts, pushing the chrome cap out. Then the socket won't fit. You can't use a larger socket because rust doesn't expand to exact dimensions. So... The solution *normally* is to pound on the correct size and I use a breaker bar to get the nut off and replace it. Sometimes the chrome caps tear off and you're left with just the nut, which is a smaller size. I have sockets for that too, so not a problem *normally*. I never use impact wrenches on first touch or last touch with lug nuts. Breaker bar to loosen, torque wrench to tighten, with impact used just to run them through the "middle range". I managed to get another one off but it's still wedged in the socket I used. I only have one other socket that size and I wasn't able to budge the remaining one with my breaker bar, but I did manage to get the chrome cap off. I think the nut will need to be cut off (did it before, not interested in doing it again) or use one of those sockets that tightens onto stuck nuts. I have some, but haven't tried them. No other nuts are stuck, just one, but I'm not willing to jam up my last remaining deep socket that size. It's soaking in PBblaster now.On Jul-13-17 at 15:43:47 PDT, seller added the following information: Hello all! I've been getting questions from out-of-state shoppers and others who aren't close by so let me offer this clarification as well. My schedule is nuts. Your schedule is nuts. If you're bidding and concerned about the standard eBay "full payment in 7 days" -- don't be. You absolutely will not get the car without full payment, BUT working in good faith we can make that deadline reasonable as long as we're within the time period eBay gives me to protect my interests, since they'll assess a closing fee as soon as the auction ends and I'd rather not eat that. IDEALLY, I'll be contact with the winner immediately after auction close (watch for my message) and would LIKE to have the transaction completed Tuesday or Wednesday afternoon/evening so please try and manage that if you can. Local notaries are all closed by 7 pm, best I can find. But I can be reasonable if you can be reasonable, as long as we stay within eBay's transaction resolution deadlines. Thanks! On Jul-14-17 at 02:40:45 PDT, seller added the following information: I forgot to click the little box to post this question to the listing, so am adding it manually: hi, how is the steering on the vehicle such as rack and pinion..is it tight or sloppy? any big banging noises when driving down the road such as strut mounts etc? hw are the wheel wells for rust? also the bottom rocker panels and bottom of doors...any rust if so how much? holes etc? and you did say tranny shifts smooth is all gears? does the traction control work? any leaks under car when moved such as puddles of oil or tranny fluid or antifreeze? thank you in advance I'm going to send you two messages-- second one will be a couple pictures from under the car, but I can't attach them to this reply or eBay won't allow me to post it on the listing. So, for you (and everyone else) here we go: Steering seems direct to me, but that's really hard to judge "tightness" subjectively. It's pretty light compared to my daily driver which has quite heavy/sporty steering and a thicker wheel. My wife used this car mostly. But it's not sloppy, just boosted lighter than I'm used to though tight and fast responding for a large luxury car. No noises going down the road that I'm aware of. The mounting plates and such are all solid. Some surface rust on the struts but much of the original paint is still there. Now, as I've said elsewhere, struts (at least front) should be a planned future repair. These are the original components and they were next on my list as the ride is certainly not as tight as it used to be-- very comfortable, etc., but not as firm and sporty as the car was before. As for body/chassis rust, watch the video for more detailed views of EVERYTHING, but only two spots I pointed out on it (trailing bottom edge of driver door, rear passenger quarter panel-- both about an inch linearly, surface only). Nothing of note on the chassis that I know of, but will send pics to supplement video I posted. Transmission is AMAZINGLY perfect, despite Chrysler's reputation! Never a problem. Traction control works. No leaks of significance. I think the car uses a little fluids now and then, but nothing major and I check maybe once a month but usually don't add much if any. Right front tire does leak a little air (but was planning to replace that one anyway) and occasionally replacement gas cap lets out vapors and triggers the check engine light. You can cycle keys to get code, verify that SOMEONE left it loose and reset cap/computer. New OEM gas cap would be money well spent as replacement cap is meh. Happens couple times a year.