2000 Audi A4

Quattro Turbo Sedan

1.8 Liter Turbo

Manual

waudc28d7ya093789

Clear

Gasoline

This is a very clean 2000 Audi A4 Quattro with a 5spd manual trans, and 1.8t Turbo and All Wheel Drive. ( THE ENGINE IS AN ATW CODE) Approx 140k miles on it. I have only owned it a few weeks, and drove it a few days. I put a brand new clutch master, and slave cylinder on the car. I bought it from the original owner, who had it since new and took extremely good care of it, it was maintained and serviced by a German shop or Audi dealer since new. I also have the factory OEM roof-top rack/carrier, the Ski/Snowboard accessory, and 2 BRAND NEW NEVER USED Audi bike carriers for sale, each in its own auction. See my other auctions if interested. NO RESERVE AUCTION, if it gets on Bid at the starting price, it goes to the bidder. I just want this car gone, if you bid, a deposit is due immediately, and must be paid in full in 5 days. Please don't bid if you cannot complete the sale, don't waste my time.If you are at all interested in this car, I suggest you get bidding because I have multiple people wanting to come look at the car this week. If there are no bids I will be taking the first decent cash offer. I will let the auction run to the end if there are bids, and the high bidder with take it. The car is listed locally as well as on Ebay, if the offer is right I may end the auction early. I would prefer to let the auction ride though, but cash in hand is hard to turn down. If there are a few bids, I may let the auction run to the end, and turn down cash offers. Don't wait till the last minute, because a good cash offer may persuade me. The previous owner put brand new tires on it last year which are still like new, new front & rear rotors, rear calipers and brakes. The body is in great shape, a minor ding here and there. There is one spot on the rear bumper where the clear is failing. The interior is super clean, with a small tear in the seam of the drivers seat. The car also has a factory sunroof. The car has also had a stage-1 engine upgrade done, which included a tune, upgraded boost controller, vacuum/pressure lines, and a K&N air cleaner. The upgrade is advertised to take it from 150hp to about 210hp. I only drove the car 2 days and about 50 miles or less, it ran with TONS of power, and performed perfectly. Suspension and transmission were perfect, it rode like a dream. THIS CAR DOES NOT RUN AND MUST BE TOWED. The engine needs the head removed, and exhaust valves replaced the #2 cylinder. There is zero internal damage to the piston or cylinder, somehow the keepers or retainers failed on the #2 cylinder exhaust valves while parked. Here is EXACTLY what occurred. I owned and drove the car literally a few weeks, and replaced the clutch parts. I drove it a few days, and it ran incredibly well, tons of power and handles like a dream. I parked the car in my driveway and it sat for about 1 week. I went to pull it into my garage to change the oil and it would not crank. Assuming the battery was dead, I pushed it in and changed the oil and thermostat. Once done, I charged the battery, but the engine would still not crank. REMEMBER, it ran perfectly pulling it into the driveway, was idling and shut down with no issue. I removed the plugs and noticed that the #2 plug was damaged. I removed the valve cover and probed the cylinder and noticed that the exhaust valve keepers broke and the valves slide into the cylinder. SEE PICTURES OF BORE SCOPE SCREEN. As stated, it was NOT RUN with the valves in the cylinder, and NO DAMAGE TO THE PISTON OR CYLINDER. The head needs to be removed, repaired and replaced, I have a few other engine jobs to do and don't have the time to fix this car. If you are mechanic this is an easy fix as you know, as far as R&R a head, this is very straightforward, nothing to tight to work with as far as clearance. THIS MOTOR DID NOT RUN WITH THE VALVES INSIDE THE CYLINDER, AND IT DID NOT JUMP TIMING, the timing belt and timing synchronizing chain are perfect, and did not jump out if time. I am a veteran mechanic with decades of experience building engines, and an engineer with a degree in mechanical engineering, I know what I am talking about, and am honest with what I sell, I promise you the above information is accurate and correct, the engine is easily fixed with some head work, SEE PICTURES. You can clearly see the face of the valve sitting on the piston since it slide out of its guide, and no damage to the piston such as when this happens when an engine is running. My guess is there was a fracture in the steel, and the extreme cold the last few weeks caused the crack propagate and fail completely. I am selling this car AS-IS, and there is NO RESERVE. High bidder buys it. CASH ONLY, NO PAYPAL for balance. Please do not bid unless you intend to pick it up, and more importantly pay. Payment due within 5 days, NO EXCUSES OR EXCEPTIONS. I can deliver the car within a 1 hour drive from my 19047 Zip code for $100, NO FURTHER. After that, the buyer must either pick up the car, or have it shipped. I cannot, and will not find a shipper if you cannot pick up the car, that is on the buyer. NOTE, the Title MUST be transferred out of my name before the car leaves my property, NO EXCEPTIONS. If you are buying the car for parts only you MUST still pay to have it transferred out of my name and into yours. Sorry, I will not take the risk of letting anyone take it in my name. Please email with any questions, I will do my best to answer them asap. The car is listed locally, so if it sells for more than the current bid, i will have to cancel the auction. Sorry, cash in hand is king. On Jan-24-15 at 20:17:13 PST, seller added the following information: NO ZERO FEEDBACK BIDDERS I want to sell this car, and don't have time for games.