1965 Ford Mustang

4.7L 4727CC 289Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Naturally Aspira

Manual

5R07A214961

Clear

GAS

This is the last time I plan to list this car! High Bid Wins!1965 Ford Mustang - Factory A code, 4 speed, Rangoon Red with Red Standard interior built as a street/bracket race car. I am the 3rd owner of this car and have owned it since 1995. I looked long and hard to find an original California black plate, factory red on red, 4 barrel, 4 speed, drum brake, non power steering, non AC car. Unlike most people, I prefer the coupe body style to the fastback or the convertible. Most of the restoration/modification work was done between 1995 and 2001 and it has been garaged ever since. The car was built December of 1964 and has some of the 1964 ½ features and some 1965 features. It is not quite a show car but is a very respectable driver that gets a lot of attention everywhere I take it. With some minor modifications, it could easily be turned into a daily driver if you wanted to go that route. I built is as a resto mod before there was such a thing. Classic looks with performance enhancements. The car has less than 2500 miles on it since restoration. Here are some of the highlights of the car: Engine – Ford 302 cast iron block, Forged pop up pistons, World Windsor Jr aluminum cylinder heads, ARP studs, aluminum roller rockers, HPC coated Edelbrock Torker II intake manifold, Comp cam, Mallory coil and distributor, Hedman Hustler custom race headers, Pete Jackson gear drive, Moroso valve covers and Milodon 7 quart oil pan. Transmission – Ford Toploader close ratio 4 speed, Hurst Competition Plus Shifter, McLeod clutch, Ford Motorsports steel flywheel and Lakewood scatter shield. Rear Axle – Ford 9” with 4:56 Detroit Locker and Dutchman Axles. Wheels and Tires – Wheel Vintiques custom Mustang Styled Steel Wheels 15x3.5 with Mickey Thompson 26x7.5x15LT on the front and 15x7 with BG Goodrich Comp TA Drag Radials 235-60-15 on the rear. Interior – New red standard interior including seats, door panels, kick panels, headliner, carpet, dashpad, instrument bezel and pony floor mats. Ignition – Mallory Dual Point Distributor, Mallory Promaster coil, Accel spark plugs, Moroso 8mm plug wires, Crane HI-6 ignition box with rev limiter. Fuel – Holley Demon 650 double pumper carburetor, Holley Blue fuel pump, Perma Cool fuel/water separator and Triangle aluminum fuel cell Exhaust – Coated Hedman Hustler custom race headers, 2.5 inch exhaust, H pipe with Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Instrumentation – 5” Autometer Pro Comp Tach, 2 5/8” Autometer Sport Comp Fuel Pressure, Water Temperature and Vacuum gauges, 2” Sport Comp Oil Pressure gauge and 2” Stewart Warner Volts gauge. Everything Else – FOMOCO radio delete plate, Flaming River steering box, Hurst Line Lock, Stainless steel battery box, Die Hard battery, drive shaft loop, custom drive shaft, subframe connectors, Moroso battery shut off/disconnect and Competition Engineering adjustable race shocks. Everything is currently working on the car. If I were to keep it, I would do the following in the next several months: 1. Change out the gear drive for a timing chain. It is noisy and attracts too much attention. It was great when I was younger but now is a little much. 2. Change out all 4 tires. Although they all have limited miles and still have plenty of tread on them, they are past the 8 year window that most tire companies recommend that you replace them in. 3. Minor bubbling in driver’s door. There was a patch panel put in the lower front corner of the driver’s door. The original door was damaged beyond repair so this door was not original to this car. After almost 20 years, there is some very minor bubbling in this area. I included a picture of it but it is minor hard to capture. It does not take away from the car at all but I wanted to mention it. 4. There is a chip in the paint between the cowl and the hood that needs to be touched up. 5. The left rear wheel recently locked up when I got on the brakes real hard, it may need a minor adjustment. 6. The rear axle is seeping a little gear oil between the housing and center section. I do not have any dyno numbers on the car. The car did go down the quarter mile about 10 passes before the aluminum heads, close ratio transmission and 4:56 rear and posted a 12.9 quarter mile at 108 mph. Car is for sale, as is, where is. No warranties are expressed or implied. I have done my best to honestly photograph and describe the condition of this car to the best of my knowledge. The attributes, condition and needs of the car have all been taken into consideration when setting the starting bid price. The car will sell to the high bidder. Have your funding and permission to buy from whomever necessary in place before placing a bid. I am not a bank and can not offer any financing whatsoever. Cash or cashiers check only. If paying with a cashiers check, the car and the title will not be transferred to the new owner until all funds have cleared my bank which could be up to 10 days. I will be happy of assist your transport company if you choose to ship the car. All shipping fees will be paid for by the new owner. A $500 non refundable deposit is required via Paypal within 48 hours and in full within 7 days of the end of the auction. I can store the car for up to 30 days at no additional charge. I do not have any interest in any trades at this time. First and foremost, I don’t not need to sell this car. I have a garage space for it and do not need the money. It does bother me that I do not have the time to enjoy it. I work 60 hours per week and have 2 young children. This car was my baby before I was married or had my boys. I have more time and money in it that I care to think about. I want it to go to a good home where it will be taken care of and enjoyed. Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have and I will do my best to answer them. I am very honest and upfront. I know it is hard to buy a car sight unseen and will do my best to get any additional pictures you may need to be comfortable with what you are buying. Good Luck!