1974 Other Makes Pantera

Coupe

351 Cleveland

Manual

THPNPU07338

Clear

0 0 1 2020 11519 Akamai Technologies Inc. 95 27 13512 14.0 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE Welcome to my NO RESERVE Auction. For sale is a numbers matching, very low mileage, 1974 Pantera. A no reserve auction means that if I only get 1 bid, the car is selling! If you want to make an offer on the car, please only if there are NO bids on the car. I will honor this auction and the winning bidder. There will be no selling from under a winning bidder. About Me I am a seasoned eBay car seller and buyer (since 1999). My auction descriptions are very detailed, containing many pictures and resources to help inform my potential buyers. I also encourage bidders to take their time and read the entire auction details, blog, etc. I moved from Atlanta to NJ so you will see info about the car referencing both locations. Communication Please feel free to ask questions, request more pictures, etc. This will make sure that we both have a great auction experience. Car Info Make: DeTomaso Model: Pantera Year: 1974 VIN: THPNPU07338 Mileage: 11,433 original miles History This car was bought from the original owner who kept this car in the states but lived in Europe where he owned another Pantera (thus the low miles). Car was driven only in summers when he would visit home and was maintained by his friend who raced corvettes and operated a dyno shop. I have spent the past few years addressing issues that are associated with an older car that spends a majority of its life inactive. Below are the details for your consideration. I was lucky enough to be living in Atlanta when I was working on the car where I could count on the wise council of Mr. Mike Dailey (of www.PanteraPlace.com fame). I was so fortunate that I could drag poor Mike out to my garage to help answer my questions. What a great guy. Anyway, here are the details and pictures: Exterior Body has some minors dents I only suspect one dent that might have some issues but it is not a large one. No rust I can detect. Paint is in surprisingly good shape considering it is original. It shined up really well and will probably look even better after being detailed. There are some minor scratches but nothing major for a car with original paint. All glass is good with no cracks or chips. Rubber seals look good but doors could use some new whiskers in the future but they are working ok. Bumpers are in good nick, typical of their age and original condition. Bottom valance does have about a 2-3 inch round dent under the chin spoiler. Looks like it kissed a curb at one time. Interior The interior is in great shape for its age. There is a very small rip in the driver side seat in the upper bolster (see picture). Other than that; carpet, dashboard, etc are all good. All gauges work however I have noticed some variations in the fuel gauge. Might be just a ground issue but I have a new fuel sending unit that will be included in the sale. Windows work (original motors). Driver side window gear was changed from plastic to brass. Fuel System I went through and replaced the fuel filler hose, filters, replaced the fuel pump and rubber fuel lines. Engine I had the manifold machined to keep the carb level (common modification) and tuned professionally by Lamar Walden in Atlanta GA (google him). Replaced oil this summer. ZF Transmission Works well; precise shifting. Replaced oil this summer. Exhaust System Replaced the stock headers with Hall Big Bore headers jet hot coated black. I also had the stock rear exhaust system stripped and jet coated as well. Steering Had the steering rack rebuilt. I replaced the front wheel bearings this summer. Suspension Car was aligned by Gran Turismo in Atlanta. I removed the US spec spacers in the original koni’s but I suspect that these shocks need a rebuild as the one of the front shocks has a slight knock (especially since the steering rack and wheel bearings have been replaced and cooling tubes do not hit anything). Wheels and Tires I replaced the tires back in 2010 and they have only 100 miles on them. I was lucky to find two Toyo Proxes 295-50-15's for the rears. The wheels are campys. I suspect a very slow leak out of the front passenger side valve stem. Brakes I have spent a lot of time on the braking system. I replaced all four calipers with refurbished parts. Braided steel brake lines. Porterfield pads, etc. See pictures Electrical No issues. Everything works. I did replace the voltage regulator. Chassis No rust issues and all looks straight. Typical scrapes due to ride height, etc that I have addressed with POR 15 if metal was exposed. Frame was inspected by Gran Tourismo in Atlanta Georgia (I live in NJ now) Cooling System I have had no issues with the cooling system. I have had her out in some hot weather without issue. Numbers Matching: This is a numbers matching car. As you research Panteras, you should input their VIN's into this website: http://provamo.com/ For Panteras, the last 4 digits of the VIN are usually used as the main identifier. For my car, use number 7338?. Chuck is the owner of the site and keeper of the registry. I took pictures of the engine block, etc and he confirmed to me that it is a numbers matching car. If you are the winner, you will want to work with Chuck to register your new purchase. It is important to the community and history of the brand. INSPECTIONS Inspections are welcomed and encouraged. I have a four post lift to aid in your efforts. Happy to work with a mechanic, etc. Serious inquiries only please; we are all busy people so respect my time and I will respect yours. More photos and videos available on request; tell me what you are looking for. If I missed something, just ask! International Buyers I am happy to work with international buyers. I live relatively near NYC. Please email me before bidding so that we can discuss logistics. You are responsible for all shipping paperwork. I will provide bill of sale and title. Shipping I am happy to work with shipping companies. Buyer is responsible for setting up and paying for shipping. Please have shipping company pick up car from my house. I live in Ridgewood, NJ 07450. Full address will be provided to winning bidder. Suggested List of To-Do's: This list is a conservative list of what I would do if I was keeping the car, so it is very subjective. I am also including possible upgrade areas you should consider with estimated prices. With that said, this is what I would do if I was going to keep the car: 1.) Either rebuild or upgrade shocks/coil overs: I think the stock shocks could use a rebuild but they work now. Koni offers a rebuild service but not sure of the cost -http://www.koniracing.com/shopservices.html New shocks cost $1040 at Hall Pantera http://hallpantera.com/cgi-bin/p/awtp-product.cgi?d=hallpantera-inc&item=22484 These are lighter and would provide a better ride in my opinion. Probably 2 hours shop time to install. I have had the car aligned but not sure if you would need to do it again with these new shocks; might not be a bad ideal. 2.) Fix small rip in driver seat (~1-2 inch): I was told by an upholstery shop that it is an easy fix, replace the panel in the seat for ~$100. 3.) Recharge the A/C system: This will most likely cost around $150. Alternatively, if you are looking to upgrade the whole system, it would probably be around $1,200 parts and labor. From my observations, the system only needs a recharge. However, you must realize that it seems all pantera A/C systems tend to be a pain for the owner. The upgrade might be worth it; check out Mike Dailey's experience here: http://www.panteraplace.com/page123.htm 4.) Inspect/Flush Cooling System: The Pantera is tricky to flush (many threads on the forum about this) but would probably cost $200 all in. Alternatively, you could pursue total upgrade, which would consist of the following upgraded radiator ($625), Stainless Radiator Tubes ($450), Hose Kit ($225), HiPo Aluminum Water Pump ($350) then add labor cost, etc. I think if you did an upgrade, you would be worry free for years. I have not had an issue with over heating however. It was over 85 degrees a few weekends ago and I had the pantera idling for 30 minutes and it stayed absolutely cool with the automatic fans turning on flawlessly. 5.) Paint/Body: I am pretty sure that a great painless dent removal person could address the body. I found a great guy here in NJ who works on classic Ferarris but he is very booked and couldn’t get it done in time for the auction. The paint is in relatively good shape for an old car and buffs out nicely. With that said, If you are thinking about repainting, I think the car requires minimal body work if you were to consider a respray; keeping in mind that you would not have to paint door jambs, etc if you keep original color. I personally was planning on getting rid of the radio and welding up the antenna hole on the fender if I ever repainted the car. There is only one dent near the right rear wheel well that might be an issue. I have tried to take pictures of it but it doesn't show up in the photo. 6.) Header Bolts: The headers are new as well as the gasket. In about 200 or so miles, the header bolts will need to be retightened which is normal in any case of a swap. 7.) Front Right Rim: I have noticed a very slow leak that I suspect is in the valve stem hole of the rim (disclosed above). I have been adding some air every 30 days so it is not a big deal but I was considering buying a replacement front rim or seeing if it could be repaired. Rims show up on Ebay a lot and are not that expensive. Also considered upgrading to a larger rim; something to consider as finding tires for the stock rims are getting harder and harder to fiind. 8.) Recarpet front and rear trunks: I have the carpet for front; just haven't got to it. This would probably cost $50-$100 to have someone do it. 9.)Bumpers: I think the bumpers are fine but if you got a total paint job, you might want to get these repainted as well...again...being conservative! Some folks like to convert to the earlier bumper style (which I like better) 10.) Engine Block: OK...this is very picky but I would repaint the engine block. This is a doable DIY job or you could pay an engine shop to possibly do it. I have never had it done before so I don't have an estimate for you. More Pictures and Info: First, I would first start with the blog I keep on the car which contains plenty of detailed pictures of all aspects of the car (inside, outside, suspension, engine, etc), insights, documentation of work, problems, frustrations, idiotic mistakes, etc. It is a "warts and all" account of the car while in my care. click on the pictures and you will get a large, high res image. These pictures : http://1974pantera.blogspot.com Below is a direct link to an online photo album. Please note that the album consists of sub-albums (nav is on the right) and within those sub albums, even more sub-sub albums. One note I would make is that you will see an album where I installed a new carb. That carb was too big (750) and I went back to a 650. I believe I document this in the blog as well when I had the fuel system tuned. http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g180/khansmith/Pantera/ Here is a link to a video of the engine running: http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g180/khansmith/Pantera/?action=view¤t=PanteraRunning.mp4 Records I have all previous repair records, Marti report and manuals, etc. (see pictures) Here is a summary of work by previous owner: February 1, 1992: -Rewire electric choke -Reroute brake vacuum line -replace PCV hose -Plugged PCV opening to air cleaner -Recharge A/C -Replace clutch master cylinder assembly -Replace mallory ignition system with Ford Duraspark (1985 H.O. Mustang) ---1 DY-184-C Ignition Module ---1 DG-314 Coil ---1 D7zz12060-A Wiring Assembly ------1 m-12127-A301 Distributor ---1 M-12106-A302 Distributor Cap Kit -Install remote timing mark on flywheel -Repair right rear side market wiring and bulb connector -Set of polyurethane bushing kit -4 koni shock absorbers -1 flo kooler water pump March 30th, 1993: -Rebuild two rear upright assemblies -four rear wheel bearings -Four lower support shaft bushings -Two lower support shaft kits (greasable) Rebuild suspension system -Remove/replace original bushings-install grease zerks ---grease zerks ---replace two u-joints in half shafts ---clean and paint half shafts and a-arms ---replace four shock absorbers -wheel alignment front and rear Rebuild and modified cooling system -replaced radiator -replaced 2 fan motors with 7 blade fans -replace cooling system hoses and clamps -install 12v relay for fan motors -plugged internal bypass in engine block and installed modified 180 degree thermostat -installed two coolant drain petcocks in block -Replaced cam shaft timing chain, gears and water pump -Timing chain with gears (erson dual roller) -Water pump (flo kooler) -Rebuild holley carburetor -Power valve -leaned primary from jet #72 to #68 -Modified intake for full throttle clearance Repair of two market lights sockets and connections (left front and left rear) Repair right rear brake caliper (rebuild) Replace defective hazard switch Replace Starter Install Air Dam April 1st, 1994: Install clutch master cylinder Install brake master cylinder Install rear deck lid opening trim Install holley 650 CFM Carburetor Model 4776 October 25th, 1994: Carburetor-Holley Mod. 4776 Date Unknown: Driver Door Window: Replaced broken window operating gear from fiber to brass gear.