1972 Plymouth Satellite

Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

777777777

Gasoline

Many, many more pics for all of those that requested them. Please come look at the car if you can. I feel confident that someone will get a lot more car than they thought they were getting for the money. The motor is a brand new 360 with a brand new supercharger. The motor and supercharger were $7500 total. Plus carb, high flow electric fan, huge aluminum radiator, march brackets, chrome alt and starter. The car has very nice cadillac cts black leather seats (b/c they have 3 point seat belts built into them), new gauges, basically a whole new interior (headliner, dome light, seats, dash pad, road runner emblem, etc..) . Rear seats are recovered. New go wing. Car has a rust in quarters and doors, but has a cheapo paint job and looks surprsingly good. The car has a racing switch panel installed into custom console with ignition, starter, fan, reverse lights, heater hooked into it. All lights, turn signals, brake lights work perfectly. New everything on back end (brake light covers, bulbs, etc). Drum brakes work perfectly (as drum brakes go). The car has all new roadrunner decals and go wing, but note that previous owner put a bunch of performance badges on front fenderwells. Trunk looks good upon first inspection, but closer inspection will reveal a small rust through hole. Most of the trunk appear rock solid, though. Floor pans are good and appear to be original. Speedometer not hooked up. All aftermarket gauges shown are functioning perfectly. Please note that my mechanic cut a hole in the dash for no reason behind the console. The computer says the motor should do around 585 hp with 565 ft lbs of torque. Specs from professional motor builder are below. The car will definetly need a new transmsission to deal with motor. My trans guy found rust in the framerail. It is going to need some fabrication to be safe with that much power. Really, please do not drive your family in this car until you address this. If you made this car hook up and launch, I am afraid that it would pull the front wheels off the ground and the frame would break and hurt somebody. This will require pulling the motor out again. I am selling this b/c I simply do not have any time to devote to this and other projects nor do I have room anymore. I had a choke put on the carb so it would start in the winter easily. The carb is a Holley 850 (vacuum secondaries not hooked up). With no mufflers, the car sounds like a coming apocalypse and will rattle dishes in a kitchen over 100 feet away. New retro cherry bombs currently on car, though. Here are all of the specs from the engine builder: 1972 chrysler 360 long block hot tanked, tumble cleaned, magnafluxed then fully re-machined 0.40 over, surface decked 0.10, main cap line bore honed, new cam bearings installed, upper head studs installed, 3.58 stroke oem cast crankshaft hot tanked, magafluxed, polished as needed (std rods& std mains) new king rod bearings and sealed power main bearings installed as needed. Connecting rods are oem 360 rods cleaned,magnafluxed then rebuilt/resized as needed. Pistons are new federal mogul/sealed power 0.40 over flat top hypereutectic coated skirt 8.5 to 1 compression pistons installed with new speed pro 5/16/5/16/3/16 chrome moly rings. Engines crank,rods,pistons,rings,bearings,balancer,flexplate were the fully computer spun balanced as needed within 1/2 of a gram. oiling system consists of a new meling m72 oil pump, pick up tube and new chrome 5 qt oil pan. Cam selected is a comp cams dual energy series cam with the following specs: 275/284 duration 462/482 lift on a 110 lobe center installed at 106* Lifters are federal mogul ht-2011 performance lifters. Timing chain is a comp cams hi performance street chain installed at 0 deg.(straight up) Heads are big port 360 hi po castings rebuilt as follows: heads were hot tanked, magnafluxed,tumble cleaned,resurfaced 0.12 (thou) new valve guides installed,new valve springs, new stainless 2.02/1.60 valves installed, heads were then assembled and pressure checked as needed. Valvetrain consists of the following: oem recon non-adjustable rockers/shafts/holdowns/bolts/pushrods were hot tanked,inspected, installed as needed. Valve covers are oem painted. Timing cover is a oem recon that was sand blasted, inspected, primed,painted with a new crankshaft seal installed. Water pump is a new hi vol 8 vane pump that was installed and paint matched. Balancer is a new external balanced 360/5.9 unit that was installed and painted to match as needed. Fuel pump is a new carter hi performance 80 gph street pump installed. oem dip stick and tube was removed,cleaned,repainted and installed as needed. Flex plate installed is a new B&M external balanced unit with new bolts. Blower system: New B&M 144 cid mini supercharger installed on motor as per customers request, blower intake manifold and necessary belt tensioner,bolts,belt etc... Ignition system: New mallory comp 9000 unilite breakerless distributor, new msd ignition wires, new ngk performance spark plugs installed. Fuel system: New carter hi po 80 gph performance street fuel pump, reman holley 850 cfm vacuum secondary street/race carb set up for blower aplication/specs. Performance specs and approx settings etc.. Ignition timing was pre-set by builder at approx 15 deg idle timing and 30 deg total timing (total was set/determined when engines rpm was at 3000 rpm) Engines idle rpm will need to be around 750 to 850 rpm or higher pending on your converter stall speed/slip. Carb jetts are 76 in front and 84 in rear, 6.5 inch power valve, size 33 fuel shooter. Recommendations: as large as possible aluminum twin row radiator and 2300 cfm electric fans for air flow. (should the engine run consistently below 160 to 170 deg in traffic an open road then stay with 93 octane without race gas mix, should it run warmer then the mentioned temps then use 1 to 2 gallons of race gas as needed. Make sure you use a factory/mopar pcv valve with the proper fitting rubber grommet on one valve cover and a open element performance mushroom style breather cap on the other valve cover. As far as fuel pressure is concerned, buy a permanent mounted fuel pressure guage (the best kind to get is a autometer liquid filled fuel guage that mounts outside the vehicle and mounts on the cowl slots) after installing the guage, monitor the fuel pressure at idle, if it is 6 psi fine, if it is higher than that up to 7 .5 psi that ok as well, the trick is to make sure the fuel pressure when you are really running it hard over 4000 to 5000 rpm does not drop more then a half a point from the idle pressure amount. Hope this helps you out, Brian. (P.S: remember... shift point is at 5000 to 5200 rpm max.... make sure you have a good working tach.)