1986 Chevrolet Camaro

IROC-Z Hatchback

5.0L 8 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel

Manual

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Gasoline

First thing's first, sorry for the lengthy diatribe, but lots to tell and don't want to leave anything out. That said... Up for sale is my 1986 IROC-Z. I'm the 2nd and 5th owner of the car, buying the car the first time from the original owner in 1992 and selling it in 1996 to get money for college. I bought the car back from the 4th owner in 2007. When I originally had the car from '92 to '96, I done away with the stock 305 4-barrel and installed a built 350 with double hump .202 heads, cammed, and Edlebrock carb and intake. I had also installed a .373 rear end which is still in it. The guy I sold it to blew the motor and he sold it to the last guy that I bought it back from. This guy stripped the motor and everything else out from under the hood, rebuilt that motor and put it in something else. So, when I bought it in 2007, it was less an engine, and most everything else under the hood, including radiator, all A/C parts, etc.was stripped and gone, but it only had around 5,000 more miles on it than it did when I originally sold it in 1996. I sold it in '96 with just under 93,000 miles on it and it had 96,800 +/- when I bought it back. I've put around 600 miles on it after getting it back together. I stopped driving it in 2009 because the alternator went bad and after putting a new alternator on it, the gauges were bouncing, and it still wasn't charging right. Come to find out (about a month ago), the ground from the engine to the body had came loose. Put the ground back on it a couple weeks ago, and everything is working fine. After getting it back, I had a 350 professionaly built and installed in the car. It's an '88 model block, I believe, with H.O. heads (bought everything from the guy that built it). It was bored to a 355 and has a new Edlebrock carb and intake on it. All interior components in the engine are new and all block work and head work was professionally done with all new lifters, valves, seats, springs, pistons, bearings, timing chain, gears, etc. installed. EVERYTHING inside the engine is new and professionally put together - this is no backyard rebuild. I didn't pay to put the engine on a dyno, but the guy that built it told me he's built hundreds of them and based on everything he done to it, it's probably pushing in the neighborhood of 375 horsepower. With the ALL NEW 3" Flowmaster exhaust, headers, and catalytic converter, it has really deep rumbling sound, and with the lope from the cam, it sounds really wicked. I had planned on restoring the car and getting it back as close to original as possible. Only reason I'm selling now is need funds to cover another project. Honestly, I'd rather not sell, but have to. Anyhow, when I started the project, I purchased all new parts to put it back together. Here's a list of everything I purchased NEW: EDL-1411 Edlebrock 750 CFM Electric Choke Carb Summit Racing Headers All new 3" exhaust from headers back including catalytic converter and Flowmaster muffler with polished dual exhaust outlets CCA-12-246-3 274H-19 Crane Cam EDL-7101 Edlebrock Perform Intake Manifold ACF-R45T AC Delco Spark Plugs Hays Billet Steel Flywheel 153T MSD-8362 MSD Street Fire HEI Distributor TAY-76230 Taylor Plug Wires Radiator Alternator Starter A/C Compressor & Lines A/C Accumulator/Receiver/Dryer A/C Orifice Tube A/C Condenser Fuel Pump New Battery and Battery Cables New Gas Line New Belt Serpentine Brackets (car originally had V-Belts, I switched it over to serpentine) GM Slave/Master/Reservoir for clutch 4 NEW Falker Ziex Tires, around 500 miles just like everything else listed above. Everything above carried a total cost, including paying $2,200 for the engine and the rebuild, of over $5,400 - I have it all documented. I have well over $7,000 total invested in the car. Additional items I have that go with the car that are either extra or need installed: A/C accumulator/receiver/dryer and A/C hoses Extra A/C pump (for use with V-Belt, I think) Extra new water pump for use with V-Belt Original stereo with AM/FM cassette and equalizer (premium stereo for that year. It currently has a GM stereo with a CD player out of a newer GM car. CD player does NOT work. Aftermarket steering wheel. Aftermarket air breather. Honestly, the factory air breather doesn't let this engine breathe like it needs, so I bought the aftermarket one in the pics. Extra console lid. New liner for under hood and clips, although I think a mouse got into the liner and chewed on a couple places. I bought it new, just never installed it. Alright, that's all the good, now for the bad. You can see from my Ebay rating, I'm not going to rob anybody and am trying to be as honest about this car as possible, so here's a list of things the car needs before becoming the cruise friendly runner you're looking for: First and foremost, it needs dual electric fans installed. Don't get me wrong, the single one it has works fine, but if you know anything about these cars, you know it's just not enough, especially for a built engine. Out on the highway, cruising at 40 and up, it cools fine, but try riding through town at 25 mph, and it's gonna get hot. You'll be looking for the closest street out of town to get it cooled back down. Not a necessity, but would make cooling life much better. The car has been painted once and that was when I owned it in 92 - 96. I'm thinking it was around 94 I had it painted for no other reason than the black had faded and I wanted it to shine. There was no body damage at that time and there still isn't more than a couple dings as you can see in the pics. It could use new paint and fix those couple dings. All in all, body is in pretty good shape and the car has NEVER been wrecked (see history report). It needs a low beam (I think) head light. $10 from AutoZone. It needs backup lights fixed. Could be the switch, could be the bulbs, could be a wire, I don't know, but they don't work. Emergency brake cable broke and needs replaced. $20 for rear disk brakes at AutoZone. I never did install all the A/C components but do have everything other than probably some o-rings. You may decide to do away altogether with the A/C. Your choice, but you have the parts if you decide to make it work. Need the heater core replaced. Right now, I have the heater core hoses under the hood tied together so it doesn't leak all over the insde of the car. I do NOT have a heater core for it, but one costs around $30 at AutoZone. Thermostat housing leaking. I have a new gasket, but haven't replaced it. I'm pretty sure that's where it's leaking, but it's not a bad leak, just a dribble and gets a small amount of antifreeze laying on the intake. Take 15 mins and replace the gasket and problem solved. Windshield wiper switch needs replaced. One of the last two guys put a wiper switch in it out of one with delay wipers. This car never had delay wipers so the connecters under the steering column don't match up. Get the proper signal switch and it should go together and make the wipers work. Horn doesn't blow. I'm pretty sure when the other guy put the aftermarket steering wheel on it (see picture), he lost some horn parts in the steering column. I don't have those parts, you'll need to find them and install. Needs new shocks to hold up back glass. Not a necessity, just a nicety. Rear window was tinted and tint needs peeled off. Has rear window defroster. I've never peeled for fear of screwing up defroster lines, but there has to be a way to get the stuff off without screwing it up. Headliner falling down, needs replaced. Carpet faded. Driver seat has a tear in it along seam (see pic). Small crack in corner of dash pad (see pic). Driver door interior cover cracked at top (see pic). Do NOT have keys to doors or rear hatch. Will need to install new lock cylinders if you want to lock it. Get those few things fixed, nothing major nor majorly expensive, and you should have a nice runner. I was going to keep it, totally redo the interior and have it painted, but like I said, it's gotta go, need $$$$$. Good luck bidding. Any questions, email me through ebay or via quenton1@frontiernet.net On May-16-11 at 10:46:18 PDT, seller added the following information: Additional info from questions received: Rust - there is none that I'm aware of. I had the car on a lift in 2008 and don't recall any rust at all. Also, once receiving the question, I looked it over and under as good as I could without putting it on a lift and can't find any. The car was undercoated by the dealership when new and it's apparently worked. Leaks - NONE. I park the car on freshly poured concrete and haven't noticed the first drop of oil or anything. So, other than the antifreeze leak as noted in the description, which is very small, no oil leakage anywhere noted. Reliable to drive home? Yes. Other than the light issues - one headlight, and possibly a signal light or two - I believe the car is very reliable. I had one ask if they'd be safe to drive it 800+ miles away. Yes is the answer. However, this is a 1986 car, 25 years old, I cannot guarantee anything. I would definitely trust it, however. I'll try reply to any other questions received so that they're posted for all to see.