Detail Info for: Pontiac : Trans Am 1980 Firebird Trans Am SE Bandit style 400 engine

Transaction Info

Sold On:
05/03/2011
Price:
$ 6800.00
Condition:
Mileage:
Location:
Springdale, Arkansas, 72762
Seller Type:
Private seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1980 Pontiac Trans Am
Submodel Body Type:
Coupe
Engine:
8 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
2W87TAL148382
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

No Reserve auction. If you bid, this car WILL sell. My starting price was my old reserve. If you want a solid Smokey and the Bandit Style car this is it. The Bandit. Thats who you will feel like when sitting behind the wheel of the Legendary Smokey and the Bandit style Trans Am. All you need is a stache, a cowboy hat, a girl in the passenger seat and of course the car.... but thats why this auction is for you. The Trans Am is one of America's most iconic automobiles. In a time when all other car companies had already given up hope on performance, Pontiac was still installing 455's, 400's, and starting in 1980, they were the first American car company to install a Turbo motor in a mass produced automobile. With the huge Firebird on the hood of these cars they are very hard to miss driving down the highway. Add the many feet of gold pin stripes on one of the Trans Ams and they are rolling bill boards that scream "Look at ME"! This Trans Am is the car I never thought Id sell, but here we are. 3 kids and other interests placed it here for your chance to catch the Legendary car that Buford T could not. Here are the details below. I am gonna be as honest as I can in my description so while there are several things on the car that need attention, just keep in mind that I am listing EVERYTHING I can think of. I want you to be happy with what you get and not have any surprises. I do not want to waste your time or mine, so as you read the details, remember that while some of the other auctions may present a nice car with few issues, you may or may not be getting the whole scoop. Also these cars are 30+ years old. Its not perfect so don't expect it. I guess the best way to do this is to list the goods and the bad in a listing style format. Lets get started.... First and foremost, the mileage is not accurate. The speedometer was changed out a few years back and when I bought the car years ago, I suspected that the milage had already rolled over the 99,999 mark although I am not sure about that. I have no idea what the accurate mileage is. The Goods.... 1980 Trans Am Special Edition, originally a turbo 301 car, it is now powered by a 1976 Pontiac 400 Transmission is a 350 TH automatic Engine has never been apart in the last 15 years of my ownership and drives like a nice stock engine. Transmission was professionally rebuilt in about 2002. I know thats been a while back, but the car is driven very rarely and therefore has very few miles since the rebuild. The Quadrajet carburator was rebuilt last year and runs great. The choke probably needs a little bit of adjustment though as it seems to stick slightly as the engine reaches operating temperatures. The interior of the car is very nice but could use minimal attention to be perfect. The seats are excellent with NOS camel tan hobnail and vinyl combination that was sewn up a few years ago. The door panels are custom and one of a kind. The dash is in great shape with no cracks or damage although it does have some slight curling up near the metal part of the dash near the windshield. The gold engine turned dash bezel is a brand new re machined to original piece restored by Randy Combs. It looks great! Tinted windows look great and keep the curious eyes at bay from the public. T-tops have storage bags and are a have to have item on the TA. Trunk is solid with NO rust Floors are solid with NO rust Body of the car is in very straight shape and although it could benefit from a nice paint job, it looks great going down the road and holds it's own at the car cruises. To the best of my knowledge and several auto paint and body men that have inspected the car, the car is a very Rust FREE in every place... the floors, doors, quarters, fenders, rockers, hood, dash, and frame is Rust Free and a perfect candidate to restore if desired. The better body you start with the better experience you will encounter if you decide to restore Brakes are the coveted 4-wheel disc system and the calipers, rotors, pads E-brake cables and soft lines were all replaced within the last few years at the same time. The water pump, radiator, radiator hoses, blower motor and thermostat were all replaced within the last few years at the same time. Exhaust is recent in the last few years and is a true dual exhaust expelling the gasses through two Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. PHS papers prove the car is a Special Edition Build sheet is found and with the car also. Title is clear and in my hands. Ok, so now its time to talk about some things that need attention on the car. First of all is the paint. Although most pictures of the car look great, it really does need a repaint to really shine. The current paint is what Id call a 20/20. It looks great going down the road or from a distance, but upon closer inspection you can see that the 15 year old paint job is showing it's age. 15 years ago I had a guy spray the car with a black laquer paint. With very little prep to the body the paint settled into all the fine little cracks that were in the old finish. The paint will shine up Ok, but tends to fade fairly quick. The pinstripes also have faded some over the years. Next concern is the drivers fender. Years ago, I had installed the snowflake wheels and while driving into the next town, the driver's front wheel began to loosen up and eventually came loose due to aftermarket lug nuts. Although the bottom side of the car is fine, the wheel and tire flew up just enough to hit the fender and it caused a very slight bend. Although most body shops could surely repair it if it ever gets new paint, I do have a very nice replacement used GM fender that I will gladly let go with the car. The front fender flairs and spoiler have seen better times. They are all installed and functional but do have a crack or two. These could also be repaired but are available from aftermarket sources too. The drivers door striker bolt located on the inner door jamb of the quarter panel has been damaged. A metal plate was attached so that the door functions just fine, but it is an eyesore and needs to be welded up for a proper fix. You can see this when the drivers door is open only. The tilt steering column has the classic GM tilt wheel wobble. There area couple of bolts located inside the steering column that tend to loosen up in this style of column. I have put off fixing this mainly out of laziness, but also I am so used to it, it just does not bother me too much. The speedometer quit working a little bit ago. It may just need a new speedometer cable that costs about 20 bucks, but I just use the GPS system to see my speed so again, I have put off fixing it. Oil gauge quit working some time back and although I have replaced the sending unit and tried to trace the wires to check for breaks, I am starting to think it may be a grounding problem on the backside of the gauge cluster, but again, I am not sure. Turn signal lever was broken before I bought the car... The plastic end is broke off making it only half the length it should be. It still functions properly but is an eyesore. A new one can be bought for 120 bucks but frankly it just never bothered me enough to spend 125 bucks on a part that still works. The A/C was removed from the car years ago before I bought it. The heater does work but the vacume to control the airflow is damaged and the airflow is currently stuck between the floor and windshield position. It gets warm in the colder weather, but only does a half a** job keeping the windshield defogged in something like rain or etc. The car has a rear window defogger but the grid on the glass is all messed up and therefore does not work. The brakes although parts were replaced, still have a squishy feel in them. They work, but seem to have air in them that I just can not get out, or maybe it has something to do with the vacume of the power brake system. I really do not know T-tops are the only part of the weatherstrip kit that did not get changed when the rest of the car got new weatherstrip several years ago. They do not leak very bad but will drip in the rain in the front corner. Also the rear of the side glass does not seal up very well on the weather strip and although it dont leak in rain, it will in a car wash. I encourage anyone seriously interested in the car to check it out in person first if you can. I can help with the car at the end of auction to get it where you need it but in communication only... meaning I will not arrange anything for you. If you buy it, make sure you have a way to get it. The furthest I have ever driven the car in one trip is about 4 a hour one way trip. I do have days where I drive it all over town in a full day or night however with no problems. Can you drive it from here in AR to where ever you live? Probably you can, but untill you are comfortable with it you might want to trailer it or whatever. Than again, theres nothing like a long trip to introduce you to a particular car and the way it behaves on the highway. Check out the videos for an in depth show and tell and a ride down the road. I have taken about 5 videos of the car to showcase everything I could think of. These videos were made on 3/18/2011 so they are fresh and accurate of the car in its present condition. The first 2 videos are part one and two of the exterior of the car. It was too long for one video so I had to create it in two pieces. Sorry about the tall and narrow videos. The third video is the interior and the 4rth and 5th videos are of the engine and related areas. I had to do two parts to this one due to a video messup. Sorry about the quantity of videos but if you are a serious bidder than the more the merrier I guess. Shipping or transportation to and from is the responsibility of the buyer. My reserve is very fair and right about what I beleive the car is worth when looking at price guides and etc. More importantly, it is what the car is worth to me. The reserve is also a little less than the buy it now option. The car is for sale locally and therefore I reserve the right to end the auction early if I need to do so. Please ask any and all questions before bidding. Please do not bid if you have no real intentions to buy. Ebay costs money to list and I thank you for your help on the matter of false interest. I have tried to be % honest in the description of the car. If I forgot to mention anything in the pictures or the videos it is not intentional. I welcome visitors to see it anytime if local. Thanks for looking

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