1964 Jeep

CJ-5 -

4 - Cyl.

Manual

8305168657

Clear

Gasoline

I bought this little workhorse about 8 years ago in tired but working condition to plow my 120-foot driveway. Since then I’ve been through everything except the motor (runs great, 20+ psi oil pressure at idle) and front differential. I’ve added power angling, quieted the strange noises, tightened up the steering, beefed the front springs, and stopped the leaks. OK, slowed them down. It now features a 4-way hydraulic plow, full Meyer cab with working windows and liftgate, Power-lok rear, Solex carb, Pertronix ignition, alternator and fuse panel, new clutch with resurfaced flywheel and new linkage, new transmission bearings, second gear, input gear, and synchro rings, new transfer case bearings, intermediate shaft, and interlock pin removed to allow low range 2-wheel drive, new (remanufactured) hydraulic pump, new hydraulic hoses, new wheel bearings & seals, vacuum boosted brakes with rebuilt master cylinder and new wheel cylinders, (drums and shoes looked good), new steering bellcrank bearing, new motor and transfer case mounts, new knuckle seals, new radiator (ouch), thermostat & hoses, pedal slack adjuster, backup lights, swing-out tire carrier, and electric fuel boost pump to reduce cranking after sitting. I also dropped and cleaned the oil pan (not bad for its age). I have over $1,600 in receipts not counting little stuff and parts I bought on eBay and Craig’s List (plow lights, hydraulic cylinders, etc.) If you have to ask, “why?” you’re probably not reading this ad. It gets used about 5 times a year – we don’t get much snow in SE Connecticut. The only time it leaves my driveway is to plow for the little old lady across the street. I used it twice this week and it plowed up a storm. The bad: The plow control valve leaks some fluid, and the plow sinks slowly, just enough to be annoying. I have a shutoff valve I can include for transporting on the road. The frame has rust damage in the rear bumper area, but a steel beam replaces the rear bumper. The body tub was replaced with a ’72 or later version with reassigned VIN, but it has holes in the floors and bottom of the tool box, and in the rear valance. There is enought floor material left so they could be patched rather than replaced. The doors also have some rust around the edges. I have never registered this Jeep but there is no reason why you could not with some additional minor work. To make it roadworthy: I would recommend replacing the rubber brake hoses (3), replacing the tires with a smaller size – the 31 Wranglers are a little tall for the 4-banger and one has a tread separation. Due to water and rust in the fule from sitting over the off-season I’ve been using a 3 gallon plastic pony tank. I will include a tank and good sender, but it should be POR-15 treated before being reinstalled. The newer style heater blows lots of hot air but it needs more weatherstripping around the doors and rear hatch to keep the heat in. You would probably also want to route the exhaust out the rear and replace the shocks. It will also need a new battery as the old one just gave up. The brakes work well, but the pedal sinks after sitting- I think this is due to the power booster being above the master cylinder. Making it right might require adding a check valve or removing the booster altogether. The pedal acomes right back up with a couple strokes, not a problem for plowing.The Jeep is sold as is, where is, and must be picked up in SE Connecticut. Atual mileage is unknown. For the reasons I listed I would not recommend trying to drive it even a short distance. I can help you load it on a trailer or dolly. Buyer must pay $100 deposit within 48 hours of auction completion, and pick the Jeep up within 2 weeks. Please ask questions before bidding. On Jan-15-11 at 14:23:04 PST, seller added the following information: Friday evening I replaced the brake fluid and bled the system. The pedal is now solid. The Jeep is not currently registered but has a clear CT title.