1989 Ford Ranger

Pickup truck

6 - Cyl.

Manual

1FTCR11TXKUA82249

Gasoline

This is a 1989 Ford Ranger pickup, regular cab, 4 wheel drive, long bed, 2.9 engine, 6 cylinder, with 5-speed manual transmission. Current mileage 134,895 which I understand to be the true mileage (per what I was told when I purchased vehicle, and what title states). Running, last driven this week. If planning to bid, please read the auction description thoroughly, as I've included everything that I know about the vehicle and its condition. Transmission--Shifts fine. I've never had any transmission problems with vehicle. Glass-- All glass good, no cracks. Don't think there are even any chips in glass. Doors-- Doors look and work fine. Doors lock , windows roll up & down fine (manual window cranks). Large Camper-Style Mirrors-- Driver's mirror is cracked but all there. Lights--All lights work fine (Headlights, Signal Lights, Park Lights, Dash, Dome, Bed Light). Guages-- All working. Radio-- AM/FM works fine. I've never tried to use the cassette deck, so don't know. A/C-- Was told when I bought the truck that it's missing compressor. Don't know. I'm not a big a/c user so never got around to checking on this. Heater-- Works fine. New Alternator--Replaced less than 10,000 miles ago. New Rear Driveshaft--Built by owner of Triangle Driveshaft, Raleigh NC (I was told "he's high but he's the best in the state"), paid $300. New Rear Shocks--Less than 1,000 miles ago. New Battery--Late 2009. New Battery Cable & Connector. Slight Body Lift-- See photos. Bumper Trailer Hitch-- Has hard-to-find older model Ranger adapter to plug into trailer lights (so you don't have to splice wires). The small plastic clip that locks the sliding rear glass is missing, Was missing when I bought truck-- used replacement glass was cheap & plentiful from junk yards so I planned to buy new clip or replace entire sliding glass if I ran across a super-cheap one, but to my surprise it never leaked, and I never had a problem with anyone trying to break into the truck, so I left it as-is. The sliding window closes, but just doesn't latch.  Dash & door panels are in good shape (one small crack on passenger side of dash, probably visible in photo). Seats and carpet need cleaning; rip in driver's seat (Durham NC junkyard quoted me $10 for serviceable replacement seat, $75 for perfect condition replacement). I only tried the 4 wheel drive once--- testing to see if it worked, the day I bought the truck. 4x4 did work-- it's the push-button system, I just had to push the button a few times, back up/pull forward a few feet to get it to engage. I've read that this is typical of these Rangers. There is a rattle coming from left front hub; I've never had any handling, steering, or wheel problems (and my mechanic has driven this truck without complaints) so I never checked out the hub. I think the truck has Cruise Control, but forgot to check (I never use it). Two of the tires look fine; the other two tires are slick and will need to be replaced. The brakes were great until recently (after I topped off the brake fluid), and they still stop the truck, but they are soft and will need to be checked. It feels like air in the line-- no scraping noises, just low/soft pedal. I feel comfortable driving the truck on back county roads & on my farm, but would not trust the brakes in any city traffic. The body is very solid! I kept the truck's original paint, so anyone buying it could see the actual condition of the body. I'm not aware of any accidents, and there have definitely not been any since I bought the truck. I used it to haul lumber, so there are numerous small dents and scratches around the top of the bed. Two other dents approx hand-sized, one on driver's side behind cab, the other at corner of passenger side rear bumper. One rusty area (not rusted through, doesn't feel soft to me) at that same rear bumper area. Every time I noticed a new scratch on the body, I covered it with Rust Converter, and then sealed that with numerous coats of spray enamel. Not pretty but it kept the scratches and small dents from rusting (see "white paint squares") in photos. Tailgate does open, close, and lock, but needs adjustment. If you choose not to adjust it, you just have to use a screwdriver blade on one side, to push down a latch (takes 2 seconds). Here's where the truck needs TLC: I purchased it in 2005 for commuting & hauling lumber and gear. It had approx 107,000 miles at that time. It ran great, oil was changed every 3000 miles, truck was only used for highway driving at 50-65 mph only-- no off-road, no city miles. The truck then developed a Mystery Ailment--- once warmed up, it began to lose power, and would not go over 45 mph. It didn't stall out or overheat--- just lost power, lost oil pressure, and couldn't sustain a speed high enough for me to use it on the interstate. I took it to my regular mechanic, and of course, as these things go, it didn't "act up" once I got it there. The mechanic got behind the wheel, tore out doing 65 mph a mile down the road & back, and announced "it runs great!". The same thing happened the next time I took it in. He ruled out fuel delivery problems (tested with fuel pressure gauge), oil line issues, clogged catalytic converter. He's a very experienced mechanic but could not identify the problem. I took it to a different shop (supposedly "a Ford specialist" two hours away) for a third diagnostic checkup, and the truck had a severe "episode" while that mechanic was test-driving it. He couldn't diagnose the problem either; the best that shop's 3 techs could do was "something is causing you to lose oil pressure, but we don't know why!". During the worst episodes, the engine loses power & makes a "popping" noise, not as loud as a backfire. The more you press the accelerator, the worse the power loss. The next time I get in the truck to drive it, it's fine....then it often has another episode.  It starts up every time, and has never stalled out.  It could be a major problem or a $10 fix.  Could be a bad sensor (MAF sensor?), oil pump going bad, or maybe debris in the oil pan getting sucked up when the engine warms up? FYI, this is the same engine (2.9) used in the Bronco, if you're thinking of an engine swap. I hate to sell this truck--- I love the height of the body lift, it shifts great, it's solid, gets approx 21-22 mpg, and I loved driving it (was planning to do the matte black look with running lights and cab roof lights. Every time I took it into the shop, guys there said "people are holding on to these old Rangers--- they're getting really popular").  But I'm not a mechanic, I have project cars I need to focus on, and don't have any use for a truck that I can't use on a long commute at highway speeds. I just don't have the mechanical skill to diagnose and fix this problem--- and it cost me money every time I take it to someone else, for them to "guess". So the Ranger has to go!    No Reserve. High bidder buys it. The mandatory fine print: Non-Refundable Deposit of $275 due within 48 hours of auction end. If the deposit isn't paid by the end of 48 hours (PayPal), buyer will be reported as non-paying bidder and feedback will be left. Please be aware that you are bidding to own the truck--- not to make an appointment to see the truck, or to ask your wife or parents if you are allowed to buy it. Nigerian scammers--- I know the scams, so don't waste your time, and no, I will not accept a fake check for more than the purchase price (I'll also pass on that 43 million dollars your uncle, the Foreign Minister of Uganda, left me in his will...so don't email me about it). Please ask questions BEFORE you bid. Have fun bidding and Good Luck.   :) .................................................. July 27:    Thanks for your questions. I was asked about the paint---- the paint does shine up surprisingly well when washed or waxed. I never re-painted the truck, so that if I ever decided to sell, people could see that the truck hadn't been wrecked, and still had its original paint. It does have the dark colored decals around the sides, factory original, so you can see that it hasn't been re-painted to hide anything. As noted in the full description & visible in photos, many of the scratches and small dents (mostly around the bed) were treated with rust preventative & enamel paint, to inhibit rust. The bed has scratches. I received a question about Cruise Control---- Yes, the truck does have Cruise Control. I never used it (am not a fan, and don't even use Cruise Control when driving long distances in luxury cars), so can't say one way or the other whether it works or not. Haven't had time to check it out this week, beyond noting that the truck has that feature. Re the 4x4--- in response to a question, I checked on that tonight (7/27). There are two buttons of the dash-- "4 Wheel Drive" and "Low Range", as I recall. I started the truck up tonight, hit the 4x4 button a few times, pulled forward, backed up, a few feet each time, and after trying this for a few seconds, the "4 Wheel Drive" indicator lit up. I was in a smooth driveway with no hills to climb, so there was no easy way to tell if in fact the 4WD was "pulling".  But this is exactly what happened the day I test-drove the truck before buying it---- I had to do that routine of pull up a few feet, back up a few feet, press the button again, back up, wait for it to engage. Then the light came on. In the first instance (the day I purchased the truck), it "spun gravel" and I could feel the 4x4 dig in.....but there was no gravel or other substance to tell me much info today. I only have the dash indicator light to go by  These are the only two times in 5 years that I've touched the 4x4 button---- just never had a need for it.  I've read that older Rangers with the push button 4x4 set up do take a second, and often a few attempts, to engage. I invite you to do your own research on this, as I have limited info. I've received info that the truck's "issue" might be an Ignition Control Module. I've wondered about this. Or a MAF sensor.  Or a MAP sensor. ????? Thanks for your questions.