Detail Info for: 1965 Ford Falcon 289 Hardtop Automatic

Transaction Info

Sold On:
06/13/2010
Price:
$ 3250.00
Condition:
Used
Mileage:
43688
Location:
Youngstown, OH, 44511
Seller Type:
-

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1965 Ford Falcon
Submodel Body Type:
Coupe
Engine:
8 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
5H17T233328
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

Normal 0 1965 289 Falcon Hardtop Good base car for a restoration/hotrod/whatever. Never seen salt. I bought the car because it was so solid and complete I couldn’t pass it up, but, alas, I just have too many projects in line and need some shop space. This car was a really nice 46k mile southern car until the guy that I got it from sat it outside for 8 years (down south) which finished off the interior. He put a ton of money into the engine with pistons, cam, Offenhauser manifold and Holley carb, lots of other expensive items but it doesn’t run worth a crap and the tranny leaks so bad I drained it. On the good side there are only two patches of metal required, one on the bottom of the driver’s quarter behind the wheel (that would require part of the available patch panels from Dearborn Classics) and the other patch would be the “lift platform” behind the driver’s front wheel well. Drains clogged in both of those areas, otherwise it would be just some finish work and paint. That’s it, the rest of the car is solid and from what I can see, won’t require any work to be done to the doors, fenders, hood, trunk lid, core support, floors. There are no bubbles on the door bottoms or trunk and hood edges. There is a new gas tank as a bonus. The trim is all there and the bumpers I would just replace. The windshield is junk, as are the parking lamp lenses and other bits and pieces. The grill confirms the low mileage in that it has almost no rock damage, as does the windshield molding and the doors that do not sag a thousanth of an inch. The side moldings need some dings taken out and polished. So, if you want to start with a complete car that has never seen salt, has a $2,000 start on the engine, and won’t go the body shop jail for 2 years while you scrounge junk yards for "that clean driver’s door" here it is. You can call me at (330) 360-0119 if you like. Bob Hockenberry On Jun-11-10 at 10:54:32 PDT, seller added the following information:I have added some photos so you can see the bottom. The rust is very light surface rust with the exceptions listed originally. The cherry bombs are on the house. I forgot to mention the tires are junk. They still have the molded "nibs" but are age cracked. The wheels are ugly, too.On Jun-12-10 at 06:35:53 PDT, seller added the following information: I have had several calls inquiring about how the car runs and if the engine was rebuilt. I can only tell you that the car made itself up on to my car trailer when I picked it up, but would not idle well at all. When I bought the car I made the assumption that the motor would need dismantled, all parts measured (even though it had new pistons and crank - I don't trust many people) and reassembled with new gaskets and seals. I assumed there would be some light machine work such as cylinder honing and head work. I made the same assumption about the transmission, figuring a complete re-seal. So, to be clear, this car is not a driver, but a base for a restoration. I figure the good outweighs the bad, and anyone that has restored a rusty and/or incomplete car will probably agree that the car to start with is first of all, the right year and body, which for me (and many others) is a '65 Hardtop, and the next most important thing is that it is not rusty, and thirdly, everything is there, especially highly sought after items like the stainless trim and grill. Bottom line is that the only person that should bid on this car would be someone that wants to take it completely apart, and while the car is in "paint jail", clean and refinish all the trim pieces, go through the drivetrain and when it comes back with a beautiful new bone stock original paint job in a factory color appropriate for the year (just my preference), order a complete interior in a nice contrasting color, and also a complete rubber kit from your favorite supplier, and put the whole thing together with some nice wheels and tires on it. If that doesn't sound like fun to you, this is not your car. If, however, you want to do some of the work yourself, and end up with a really solid car that will last, this is the kind of car you want to start with. Bob Hockenberry

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