1941 Cadillac Other

Flathead V8

Manual

Clear

Gasoline

For Sale: 1941 Cadillac Fleetwood Series 60 Special Up for auction is our 1941 Cadillac Series 60 Special. We’re the 2nd owner of the car and would love to see the car go to someone who will care for it and enjoy it as we have. And maybe even finish restoring it as that is what the car really deserves. I wish I could dive in and fully restore the car, but right now I have too many other higher priorities. Please note that the license plates are not included with the car. Please look at the photos carefully. Below is an overall description of each area of the car. If you have any questions at all or would like to see additional photos/angles/close-ups please contact me prior to bidding. I can send pics of anything you'd like to see, just ask (undercarriage, frame, inside engine bay, trunk, hidden areas, etc.). Overall Condition This car is a great “driver” and is a lot of fun to cruise around in. It's also a perfect candidate for a complete restoration. We have done a lot of the major work to the car and our plan was to get the car mechanically done and then begin the bodywork/interior/etc. But we didn’t get that far. We love the car and have enjoyed driving it around town a little bit (gets a ton of attention), but due to space and time restrictions, we are offering the car up for sale so that someone else can enjoy and love it as we have done. Cowl Tag Information & Other Info. from Paperwork Style No: 41-6019S Body No: 2045 Trim No: SO-2556 SBO: 2556 Color: 54-X-5 Gunmetal Gray PS 169 3.77 Ratio X Code 76 SF 41-18 RW D1 Engine No. 6342257 Unit Engine No. 8F 24757 Ignition Key No. 8747 Compt. Key No. 8999 Car originally came from Scott Smith Cadillac Co. in Philadelphia, PA and was shipped on February 3, 1941. Engine – 346ci flathead V8 with 150hp The engine was completely rebuilt less than 500 miles ago! The only reason the motor was pulled and rebuilt was because one of the pistons was making noise. Turns out it had been knurled many years ago so someone had been in the engine before. The crank, block and heads were in good condition with no major issues. Honestly, this engine runs nice and smooth with plenty of power, no funny noises at all and she does not run hot. Below is a complete list of what was done directly from the engine rebuilder’s paperwork. There were no cracks in the block or heads. The total cost for the rebuild alone was $4,780.94Disassemble Engine Degrease Block Magnaflux Block Bore Cylinder Hone Cylinder Prep Block Install CAM bearings Replace expansion plugs Degrease Crankshaft Regrind 5 Main Journals Degrease Rods Touch up rod bore Press Piston 2 or more Align rods to pistons Clean cylinder head Magnaflux head Replace press in guide 8 Cylinder valve job Remove broken bolt/stud Install 2 helicoils Surface flat head Assemble 8 cylinder engine Master Engine Kit Including Below Items Pistons & Rings – 0.030 Rod Bearings – 0.020 Main Bearings – 0.010 CAM Bearings New Camshaft 16 Hydraulic Lifter Plunger Assemblies Gasket Set Timing Set Oil Pump Kit 8 Intake Valves 8 Exhaust Valves 16 Springs 16 Guides Pilot Bearing Surface flywheel Oil Lines Head Bolts Transmission Three speed manual transmission. Smooth, quiet and shifts beautifully through all gears. Clutch is also smooth as glass and grabs perfectly. Clutch disc was relined with new friction material at the same time the engine was rebuilt (500 miles ago). The clutch was in great shape we just figured it made sense to do this since the engine was out of the car. Front Suspension Tracks straight, feels nice and tight and rides great! The front wheel bearings, seals and shocks have all been gone through and cleaned or replaced approximately 500 miles ago. Shocks were rebuilt. Everything else was inspected by our mechanic when the front end was apart. If it was bad it was replaced. Rear Suspension As with the front suspension, the rear tracks straight, feels nice and rides great. The bearings have been inspected, but the rest of the rear suspension has not been done on the car. It will likely need sway bar and spring bushings at the least. Brakes The brakes have all been gone through and work beautifully, with great feel and smooth, strong stopping power. New wheel cylinders installed, checked brake shoes, recent brake lines, etc. The stock master cylinder has also been replaced with a Wilwood dual master cylinder – Art Gardner bracket. This is a well-engineered upgrade that incorporates a Wilwood 1" bore master cylinder with remote mounted reservoirs and has transformed the brakes. This is also a safety upgrade as the front and rear circuits are now isolated. The car now stops very well. It's actually surprising how well the car stops for such a big car with non-power assisted brakes. This upgrade uses a custom bracket that mounts using the original master cylinder mounting holes. No additional holes were drilled so the car can be returned to stock in the future if a fully-stock restoration were performed. The brake lines were slightly modified, but that's no big deal. Honestly, I would keep this upgrade even if I fully restored the car as it is just such an improvement in drivability and confidence in the car. Electrical Car has 6 volt alternator conversion (in place of stock generator). The original oil bath air filter doesn't fit well with the alternator so we removed that and installed a small air filter. We do still have all the original parts including the original generator and the oil bath air filter assembly if the new owner would like to return the charging system to original. The alternator works perfectly though. Headlights, taillights, turn signals, and parking lights all work beautifully. The back-up lights do not work as the backup light switch on the transmission needs to be replaced and reinstalled. The horn is also disconnected as the steering wheel button needs a replacement isolation gasket for the button. All this was on our list of "things to do." Wiring Engine wiring looks like it was replaced at some point in the cars history before we purchased the car. The rest of the wiring in the car looks to be original. Doors & Windows The doors open and shut beautifully, no sagging at all. The driver’s side front door does have rust and a hole in the bottom of the door at the rear. The hole is maybe 2” x 2”. The other three doors only have minor rust on the bottoms and no rot. All the windows roll up and down easily and the vent windows also work just fine. Nothing is bent or damaged on either of them. Even the little vent window locks function nicely. The front cowl vent also works perfectly to let fresh air in. The glass on the car is in great condition. No cracks, broken pieces or major scratches. Hood & Trunk Lid The hood and trunk lid both open and close easily. The lower section of the trunk has been repaired with a patch panel, but as noted in the list of extra parts, the car comes with an extra trunk panel that is in good condition. Trunk Light surface rust in the trunk. No rot or major damage at all. A wire brush and can of POR15 or even Rustoleum would make the trunk look beautiful again. That was our plan. Paint / Body The paint on the car is best described as a “10-footer.” It is far from perfect and could use a repaint to make the car really nice. There are spots that have warn thru, little bubbles in some of the paint and there are places that have been repaired/repainted over the years. Overall the body is in good condition, but it does show its age and has many imperfections. There are dents and dings and previous repairs/patches. Again, a "10-footer." Body work and a fresh paint job were on our list but we never made it that far. Please look at the photos to inspect the paint/body carefully. Some areas of note: The driver’s side rear quarter was repaired with a patch panel where the quarter meets the fender. There is a small patch at the lower rear of the passenger side fender near the front door, but not into the door. There are some small areas of rust and small holes in the sills. And there is a fit issue with the small lower fender extension piece that finishes the fender below the driver’s side door. It’s been repaired at some point and fits ok, but we never got to dig into it further. The body panel gaps I think are good all around. There is also rust and rot in the sheet metal pieces behind the front fenders. One on each side of the car. Structural Wood The large flat sections of the structural wood (under sills/floor on each side of car running from front to back) look like they are in decent condition as they were undercoated years ago (long before we got the car). The undercoating seems to have protected the flat sections of the wood, but I can’t inspect too closely as it is covered with undercoating. Aside from the flat sections, the wood is rotted and damaged or partially missing up near the front fender sill support and on the lower sill sections that stick down from the flat sections (mostly on the rear half of those sections of the wood). The lower sill sections of the wood are connected to the stainless metal sills below all the doors. This is where the rear sections are missing and rotted. Honestly, this is 74 year old wood so I would assume the flat sections are not perfect under the coating either. The car is nice and tight though so the wood must still be ok for a “driver.” Undercarriage / Frame The undercarriage of the car has only mild surface rust on some spots. No major rust or rot. Same for the floors and frame. It looks like the frame and undercarriage were sprayed with undercoating at some point in the cars life. Don't expect clean and pretty, just basically solid with typical road grime and grease. See collage photos of undercarriage. Work Completed (less than 500 miles since all work listed below was completed) Engine Rebuilt New Spark Plug Wires, Coil, Points New Engine Mounts Rebuilt Starter Motor Clutch Disc Relined and Pressure Plate Inspected Radiator Boiled / Cleaned Out New Coolant Hoses New Fan Belt Optima 6-Volt Battery Seat Belts Added Driveshaft Universal Joints Rebuilt New Front Shocks New Front Wheel Bearings New Brake Wheel Cylinders Upgraded Brake Master Cylinder to Wilwood Dual Master Cylinder Driveshaft was completely rebuilt – new seals and bearings as required New Rear Differential Pinion Seal Rear Differential Oil Changed Rear Transmission Seal – when engine was out of car. Front turn signal light housing gaskets Original Parts & Extra Parts that go with car Along with the sale of the car, we have many of the original parts and some extra parts that will go with the car to the new owner. Please see the collage photos of the extra parts included to see what everything is. Original Hub Caps - Smaller Size Extra Trunk Lid - In very good condition. No rot at all, only minor body work is required and this would be ready to go. Extra Side Door - Good for mechanical parts or the glass. The door frame is badly rotted on the bottom. Radio Extra Hood hinges Exhaust Piping Extra Front Radiator Support Assembly Oil Bath Air Cleaner Assembly Original Generator Spare Tire Dome Light Cover with Glass in Very Good Condition Rear Seat Floor Light Covers with Glass in Very Good Condition Two (2) Extra Starter Motors Original water pump Original brake master cylinder Three (3) original wheel cylinders Misc. original water hoses, air intake hose, belts, coils, etc. Extra Antenna – Bent up but may be useable for something. Please note that the license plates are not included with the car. If you have any questions at all or would like to see additional pictures please feel free to contact me prior to bidding. Payment - $500 deposit is due within 48 hours of auction close. Balance due upon pickup of car (or earlier) via cashier’s check or money order. Buyer is responsible for arranging pickup/transportation of vehicle and for all costs for transportation. Thanks and happy bidding!