1968 Dodge Power Wagon

WM300 pick-up

Chrysler 318

Manual

2461954383

Clear

Gasoline

1968 WM300 Dodge Power Wagon Frame up, custom restoration, 300h.p.-V8 I bought this Powerwagon on 04-30-02, with the intention of making it my daily driver. Then I changed directions with this project by deciding that I wanted to build this truck to my specifications, a truck that there would not be a road it could not travel. All of this while keeping as many of the things that make a Powerwagon a Powerwagon intact. I began by disassembling everything, and having all parts sandblasted. Everything that could be taken apart was taken apart and cleaned. When it was put back together, all bearings, bushings and seals were replaced. The axles had 5.83 gears, so I bought and installed new 4.89 ring and pinions, so it could move with modern traffic. And for the go anywhere part, had a locker put in the rear differential. The front axle is probably my favorite thing about a Powerwagon. Stronger than a Dana 60, and when in four wheel drive and turning hard, no loping that you get with u-joints. In my opinion it is the best front axle for rough use because the steering tie rod is protected behind the front axle. Living in Colorado, I decided that I wanted a little more horsepower to help move this heavy beast of a truck over high mountain passes. I found a couple of Mopar guys to help me out. They rebuilt a 1972 Chrysler 318 for the truck. It was bored .30 over with high compression pistons, a performance cam and dual plane intake manifold for torque. Along with electronic ignition, 4 barrel holley carb, and Edelbroc air intake. This balanced and blueprinted engine was finished with an 11 quart severe service oil pan, and 2 ½ inch dual exhaust. I kept the stock NP420 transmission and NP 200 transfer case. This allowed for the use of the Powerwagon p.t.o. I was able to keep the winch lever in its original location. I had to modify the driveshaft of the winch to work with a larger engine. Everything works perfectly. The winch has 250 feet of new 7/16 inch cable, with a company mounted tow hook. All other levers were kept in there original location, the transmission shifter, the parking brake, and the 2, four wheel drive levers for the transfer case. The things that I changed were to increase comfort, safety, and drivability. The “custom” part. These include front disc brakes, power steering, larger engine, hanging pedals, and lap/shoulder seat belts. Also in the cab, is a heater and defroster with a 3 speed fan, dome light, driver and passenger side electric windshield wipers, which have switches on the driver’s side to control both. In the glove box is a Pioneer CD player with remote, an automatic antenna that goes up when the radio is turned on, and 4 speakers, 2 – 6x9’s behind the seat and 2- 6 ½ inch rounds in the kick panels under the dash. There are also 2- 12 volt outlets, to keep all your gadgets charged. I also added cowl lights, fog lights, and an electric windshield washer. Along with a tach, hour meter, and master switch. Everything is in working order. When I had the cab off, I had it sand blasted. Then I primed it with etching primer. After that I put spray on bed liner on the fire wall and floor, both on the inside and outside of the cab, to deaden sound. It has all new glass and weather stripping. Also a new headliner and all new wiring throughout the truck. This is the deluxe cab with wing windows, sun visors, and a driver side arm rest. When rebuilding this truck, one of my main concerns was having the metal protected from rust. I removed all parts and brackets for sandblasting. Then I used self-etching primer, then a single stage paint on all frame parts and brackets. I used a base coat / clear coat on the body. Everything is protected. All sides were covered and I let them harden, before assembling everything using grade 8 bolts. Everything is tight. The doors on the cab shut with a click. Any specialty types of bolts or fasteners that were Powerwagon specific were wire-brushed clean and reused. When I decided to use the Michelin XL military tires, I had 2 ½ inch riser blocks made for the front, and 1 ¼ inch blocks on the rear to help level the truck out, and make more clearance for the 11.00 R 16, 38.5 inch tires. I also had new, larger 5/8 inch u-bolts made for a little extra strength. The shocks are NOS, and about the size of semi-tractor shocks. The same guy that made the riser blocks also made the custom stainless steel gas tank. It is wider than the original, and because I wanted it up and out of the way, it is not as deep. It still holds 28 gallons. Plus there are 2 - 5 gallon gas cans mounted, one on each side of the bed with 2 new nozzles. I also had him extend the pitman arm to keep the geometry right. Since these Michelin tires are getting harder to find, I went ahead and got 2 for spares. They are a directional tread anyway so there is one for each side. The tires should last forever, since there are the 2 spares to rotate into the mix. When I was restoring this truck, I wanted it to be better than new. My main concern was with the mechanical aspect of it. All housings and cases were totally cleaned, all bearings, bushings, gears, and seals have been replaced. There is all new fluid throughout, including Amsoil synthetic 75-140 in all gearboxes, with Amsoil sliplock in the rear differential, for the locker. The radiator is new, with the antifreeze testing to -50. From every u-joint to all grease zerks have been replaced. All bearings were packed with Amsoil racing grease. New brakes, brake lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and all parts are new. The fuel line is new, and has been insulated all the way to the carburetor. All hoses, belts, wiring, and lights are new. The only thing that I might have spent more time on was some of the finish. I left the fenders, running boards and tailgate a little rough, but my thought was that I was going to use this truck and besides if I decided to later, you can buy remanufactured ones that would be perfect. I have a few manuals and parts that will go with the truck. All pamphlets and instructions will be included. There are probably things I forgot to mention about, like the engine heater, the reinforced rear cross member with pintle hitch, and shackles front and rear, lock out hubs, and locking door handles. There is a jack, a breaker bar with 1 ½ inch socket for the lug nuts, spindle nut socket, and extra wiper blades. The speedometer has been replaced with a new old stock one, and regeared. It reads 9 miles, but the actual calculated miles on the truck is 70. There is a throttle cable that can be used as a cruise control. The battery was new in July. It has 2 sets of keys that separate, with a master key and door key on one side, and an ignition key and second door key on the other side. I have included a legend for the switches on the dash and one for the fuse block. This vehicle has always been kept in the garage. When the speedometer was slow, I had my wife follow me and I have had it up to 70 mph and it had room for more. The person who helped me with the drive train on this truck is the author of a drive train manual for Powerwagons. It has a clear Colorado title. Please email any questions. Thanks. This truck is being sold As Is. There is no warranty, expressed or implied. The buyer is responsible to thoroughly inspect this vehicle to satisfy him or her regarding the condition of the vehicle. Bids should be based on the bidder’s judgment not just on the description in the ad. After the sale the seller is not responsible for any repairs. Payment: Buyer has 7 days to pay with certified check. The truck will not be available for pickup or shipping until full payment is received and cleared by our local bank.