1991 Volkswagen Golf

2 Door

2.0L 16V DOHC 4 Cylinder

Manual

3VWHE21G1MM031270

Clear

Gasoline

Relisted to Comply with eBay's Selling RegulationseBay yanked my listing due to details of my payment terms that violated their selling regulations. I have changed my payment terms to accommodate and relisted the auction-please review the updated payment terms. Since eBay only allows a maximum of 24 pictures, and I have gotten a few requests for some more detailed pics, please check out the following gallery of 84 photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/stew0620/1991GolfGTI Up for sale is my 1991 VW GTI with the 2.0L 16v engine. I have owned this car since the summer of 1999. I bought it with 89,204 miles. It now has 160,702 miles. This has been a revolving project car since purchase. I have never driven this car in the snow or salt under my ownership. It has been garaged every winter in a heated garage under a car cover. I believe this is one of the nicest original Mk2's you'll find in the northeast. I have put hundreds and hundreds of hours and I have no idea how much money into this car over the years. I don't even want to tally it up, even if I could. If a part was questionable on the car it was replaced. Many parts were replaced simply to make everything look like new. Everything from engine gaskets, hoses and inlets/outlets, brakes, calipers, driveshafts, wheel bearings front and rear, radiator, water pump, fuel filter...the list goes on and on. In fact I really wish I did keep a list now trying to think back what I have done over the years. I am the 3rd owner of the car as far as I can tell. The original owner rear ended another vehicle when the car was brand new and it was fixed by the dealer who sold the car. I have the paperwork from this repair. The 2nd owner struck a deer in the right front fender which I had repaired after purchasing the car. The rest of the paint on the car is original and in pretty good shape considering the age. It really cleans up well with some elbow grease and polish/wax. The lower front bumper is scuffed by the fog light and the lower rear bumper is peeling behind the wheel. Other than the typical nicks, scratches and pitting you would expect to find on a high mileage vehicle, the paint is what I would consider excellent condition for being 21 years old. See the pictures; I tried to show some of the worst areas. I have absolutely no desire to sell this car except for the fact that I simply don’t have the time to use it anymore. It has been off the road and inside my garage under a car cover for the past 2 y ears. Periodically I start it, move it in and out and/or drive it up and down the driveway. Exterior: -Stock quad headlight grille -Upper grille spoiler by Kaimei -Cross hair headlights -European headlight adjusting motors which enables you to aim the headlights up or down via a dash mounted switch. These are factory European parts I installed. Custom wiring harness with all soldered wiring connections-not crimped! -Euro plate held on with rare earth magnets embedded in the front bumper cover. -European spec taillights with rear fog light. -Smoked front turn signals. -Stock BBS RM wheels. These are a set of the best RM's that I've seen in the northeast. One lip has a slight bend in it from a pot hole but it is slight and does not affect the balancing or seating of the bead in any way. Some of the lips have peeling of the clearcoat but nothing like the typical peeling on RM's that you see. Otherwise they are straight and balance out well. -Porsche door handles installed with brand new mounting pads. Lock cylinders converted over to stock so the original ignition key fits. -Lay-flat rear wiper modification. -LED lighting in rear license plate illumination lights. The bad: the rear panel under the hatch is dented and the emblem is missing. The paint on the rear bumper is peeling in one area and the front bumper paint is scuffed as mentioned earlier. There are nicks and scratches as well as pitted areas of paint that you would expect from a high mileage car but it really does clean up well. I had refinished the lips on the wheels back when I first got the car. They are now peeling again and need to be refinished. Once again, see the pics. In my opinion, the wheels are still in much better shape than any other RM’s you’ll find in the northeast these days. Interior: -Stock Recaro interior. The interior is close to perfect shape. The bolsters on the front seats are in almost perfect condition. They are not clapped out at all like most Recaro seats these days. The driver’s side seat bottom has a slight cigarette burn hole in it (this was present when I bought the car-I do not smoke, nor has the car been smoked in by anyone since I have owned it). I took great care in entering and exiting the car so as to not destroy the front bolsters. -Custom center console with relocated cigarette lighter enabling a set of Audi VDO tri-gauges to be installed in place of the ash tray. Oil temperature (°C), oil pressure (bar), voltage. Gauges are backlit with red bulbs and dim with the dimmer switch. Custom wiring harness with all connections soldered not crimped. -Italovanti steering wheel with 16v script on the center. -Stock rubber floor mats. -Stock carpeted floor mats with GTI 16v inscription embroidered in. These were only installed at shows and were never on the floor while driving the car. -Aftermarket CD player (pioneer) with remote control. -Pioneer speakers all around. -337 red stitched golf ball shift knob/boot. -Duostyling Air/Fuel ratio gauge. -LED lighting in dome light. -OEM "pillbox" ignition key with lighted head and case. I also have a second pillbox key that is missing the case. The bad: the headliner is falling down in the rear and needs to be re-glued. The dash has some cracks but nowhere as bad as you typically see in an Mk2 these days. The plastic trim piece under the rear hatch area is broken. Suspension: -Weitec XS coil over suspension with approximately 5,000 miles. Fully adjustable including ride height and damping. New poly upper strut mounts installed and front upper strut bearings at time of installation. -Highly sought after Eibach flat aluminum front stress bar. -Neuspeed triangulated rear stress bar but missing the triangulated portion. One could be easily fabricated and installed. Engine: -Stock 2.0 L 16v -TT tuning EPROM -Jet hot coated stock exhaust manifold -TT tuning dual stainless down pipe with catlytic converter delete. -TT tuning all stainless exhaust with borla muffler. -ABA serpentine belt conversion including alternator and a/c compressor. -Mk3 weighted shift rod with new bushings. -Brand new optima battery with factory battery cover. -Custom lighting wire harness to "relay" the front headlights (all 4 of them) with 8AWG wire feeding the relays and 12AWG feeding the bulbs. Each circuit is fused separately with a custom fuse block mounted in the engine compartment. -No radiator fan. I had modified a B4 passat fan and shroud which I ran for quite a while but it quit so I just took it out. The plug for the fan has been converted to this style. -Skid plate under engine and transmission. -K&N air filter -BBM solid front motor mount I have replaced just about everything on this engine over the years short of tearing it out of the car. I have had the head off and did valve seals and head gasket, engine pan, water hoses and inlets/outlets, water pump, timing belt, tensioner, you name it. If it needed it or the item looked questionable it was replaced. I have always run synthetic oil and Mann/Mahle oil filters. Oil has been Mobil One/Elf/Total meeting current VW specs for the new cars. I always change my oil at 5000 miles and always in the spring after sitting all winter. I have always used VW spec coolant. Currently it has G12 plus plus in it. The bad: I never hooked up the a/c compressor after I did the ABA serpentine belt conversion. The old suction and discharge lines need to be converted over to the single block mount connection to match the newer ABA compressor. I also never put the a/c condenser back in after a radiator change as it was shot anyway. You would have to install a condenser and swap over Mk3 lines or modify the existing suction and discharge lines at the compressor to make the a/c function. Valve train has typical high mileage tappet ticking but goes away a short time after running. Transmission/drivetrain: -Stock 5 speed transmission. 2nd gear syncro is kind of tired and will grind on a really fast shift. No clicking in reverse and otherwise is smooth and quiet. Currently has synthetic gear oil (Amsoil) in it. The bad: driver side inner CV joint boot is ripped and needs replacing. I will include a brand new replacement joint kit with the car. Brakes: -Stock front and rear rotors. Front pads are high performance Hawk pads and rear pads are stock replacements. The bad: rear e-brake inoperable. Well it really is operable but it sticks thanks to VW's wonderfully designed rear calipers. I was always going to convert to the Mk3 aluminum war calipers but never got around to it. I replaced the e-brake cables so I know they are not the issue. Terms of Sale I have gone through great effort to document and describe this car in the exact condition it is in. If you have a question about anything I have written, photographed or perhaps not written or photographed, please ASK ME. I will verbally and/or photograph the item in question and update the auction. Please remember this is a 21 year old vehicle and is not perfect in any way. In my opinion, this is one of the cleanest original Mk 2’s around. By original, I mean not restored or otherwise heavily modified/altered from factory condition. The car is being sold in AS IS WHERE IS condition with no warranty of any kind expressed or implied. SHIPPING: BUYER is responsible for arrangement, coordination and payment of all shipping charges. Dependent upon the shipping/transportation method, I will probably have to raise the car up in order to facilitate loading on a trailer of any kind. I can be available to help load, depending on the day/time of arrival. PAYMENT: Deposit of $500 due by Paypal to me within 48 hours of close of auction. Remainder of payment due prior to, or at time of you or your shipper picking the vehicle up. Payment type will be either cash, cashiers/bank tellers check. You will be receiving a clear, transferrable NYS title which is in my name upon payment in full for the vehicle. The title will be signed by me as the seller indicating the vehicle has been sold. You will be responsible for any paperwork required by your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles in order to transfer/register the car to your name. You are responsible for payment of any fees associated with registering the vehicle in your own state. RETURNS: No returns will be honored. END EARLY: I reserve the right to end the auction early without any warning or notice given.On Sep-11-12 at 16:12:16 PDT, seller added the following information: UPDATE 9/11/12: I have gotten a few questions regarding the lack of a radiator fan. I went digging around my parts stash and came up with an original style fan shroud and fan. I tested the fan motor and it runs on both high and low speed. I also found an original style electrical plug with a wire pigtail which can be soldered to the harness in the car. These items will be included. Check out my gallery page; I added pics of the fan/shroud assembly. I have also gotten some questions regarding the work required to make the A/C operational again. As mentioned, you will need to purchase a Mk2 condenser and install. I would recommend installing a new receiver/drier in addition since the system has been opened for so long. I found in my parts stash the suction and discharge lines that I scavenged from the Mk3 donor car which need to be adapted to the GTI in order to connect the suction/discharge lines to the Mk3 compressor. You will probably have to have custom lines fabricated at an automotive A/C shop to do this. The original Mk2 lines are steel/rubber while the Mk3 lines are aluminum/rubber. I believe you could have the two sets of lines cut apart and spliced together by an A/C shop without a problem. The system will then need to be evacuated and charged with new R-134a refrigerant. I would recommend a leak test prior to evacuating/charging to insure there are no leaks prior to having the system charged with refrigerant. I would also recommend a shot of POE oil be added to the system, or the better way to do it would be to remove the compressor and replace the oil manually. The original evaporator and expansion device is still intact, ready to go. I added a few pics to the gallery of the Mk3 lines. These will also be included with the car.On Sep-12-12 at 09:57:17 PDT, seller added the following information: UPDATE 9/12/12: I have learned through some private messages that apparently some states require emissions testing on a car this old. Since the car has no catalytic converter or a provision for one with the TT dual downpipe, I will include the original downpipe with the sale. I do not have the original catalytic converter; it was gutted prior to me purchasing the car anyways so it woudn't do any good. The TT/Borla exhaust will bolt right up to the OE downpipe with a new catalytic converter.