1964 Plymouth Fury

Sport Fury Convertible

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

3441268678

Gasoline

1964 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible. Rebuilt 361ci bored .030" over. Heavy Duty Hardware throughout, with 4000 miles currently. Originally Purchased at now defunct Arden Plymouth in Sacramento, Ca. (Car was wearing it's original CA black license plates and Dealer frame when I bought it) One Woman Owned until 3/86. The second owner "Male" had this car for about 1 year, while beginning to restore it, was still driving it. I bought it from the third owner (a month later) who did not title it in his name, but passed along the title to me. I've owned this Plymouth for 25 years after driving it back to Florida from LA, CA. in 1987, and garaged it ever since. Restored 1987-'90 Not a Nut and Bolt, or Rotisserie, but throughly gone over. I've listed what's left to do, and most of whats done. Call with Questions or come and take a look. (772) 486-6127 The Body is what makes this Plymouth Special. The Fenders, Doors, and Quarters are Rust Free. The Frame is in Great Condition everywhere. The Car had 90% of it's original paint when I purchased it. One area in front of the Drivers side rear wheel and extending forward to the door opening had some gray Primer, but I can't detect any filler with a magnet. When the body was Restored in 1987-90 The Car was Painted with Amerflint in it's original Sandlewood color Doors / Windows Both shut a Little hard due to the New seals. The Pass Door needs a good Slam. It used to shut easy? I think adjusting the Latch might help, or the Hinges? The Door Jam alignment is off some with the top of the Door. I don't have a close picture but will get one soon. The windows may need some adjustment also. I had the Vents and Tracks out and did not get them tweaked. The window stops need adjustment. Body/Paint Continued Overall Paint condition is Good. Yes this body finish could use a little Botox. It was straighter when she left the body shop, (22yrs. ago) I know the paint has shrunk, and thus some minor sheetmetal imperfections are now noticable. There are some mini waves or or very shallow divits in the upper body line on the drivers side quarter, one is more noticeable than the others. You need to catch the light right. There are a few spots on the Trunk lid along the aft flat, and a few on the top of the trunk lid. Again hard to notice, depends on lighting, and angle you're looking at. When Outside/Outdoors.. imperfections are very hard to see, ...under the lights in a Garage...more noticable. (that would be, under the spotlight) There are a few chips in the paint. One pea size, and right beside it, a BB size on the right front fender, at the wheel well lip edge. One other BB size chip on the pass. door rear edge at body line, near the door handle. These could easily be touched up once You or the Body Man mix the paint for the other area below the Master Brake Cylinder, and Battery Tray area. (explained later) The Drivers Fender paint, at the leading edge, adjacent to the Headlight Trim, under the fender's point, is Thin .... just got painted that way! You may never notice unless you're looking for it! Nice Driver Paint though, everyone likes the Paint! If you want Show Paint, like for Points in Compitition or just Really Nice, it needs to be Stripped to bare metal and repainted. This is a Good Solid Car for that, and worth the Invesment, or just drive it, and enjoy. Front Floorboards Passenger side Good. Drivers side had a pin hole or two, that I caused by digging at a little rust scale. Cleaned and treated with OSPHO, filled holes with Marine Tex, and painted. The Master Cylinder's rear seal leaked, and brake fluid came through the firewall and onto the floor pan under the pedals, so I repainted with black Paint instead of Sandlewood, in case you ever lift the carpet and wondered! Rear Floorboards had some surface and scale rust, and a few pin holes in the channels. Rust Converter (Por-15) or OSPHO (converts rust to Iron Oxide) was used before painting. Than sheetmetal panels were welded over the old floorboards for reinforcement. Overkill, and I wanted to retain the original floorpan shape from the underside of car. (Replacement floor pans were not availible in 1989) Some sanding needs to happen directly under the floor board at the site of repair on the Driver side. Right now it's painted until I come back to it, with the car up in the Air for better access. This probably won't happen now that I'm selling the car. The Parking Brake Cable Guides, (2) one on each side, are welded to the Rear Floorboards and had to be rewelded after the floorpans were repaired. The Brackets/Guides are not welded as nice as Original from the factory. They are strong, and doing their job though. Trunk Is in Pretty nice Condition now, it had a few Rust Pin holes. Not necessary to replace Floor/Pan. Used rust converter (Por-15) and or OSPHO than Dura Glass or equivalent to repair. The Fuel Tank was out during repairs, being sealed. A few years ago I replaced the Tank with a new one, and repairs were not rusted underneath. Again I removed the Tank to replace the Fuel sender last year. Some Paint was starting to lift only on the inside of the trunk. I noticed some of the repair filler was not originally sanded out as smooth in the channels as I would have liked. I started to sand but will not finish. I touched up with gray paint what work I did, but it is not speckled with white so it's not a match. Needs finishing. Firewall below Master Cylinder. It leaked and lifted the Paint. Cleaned correctly, primed and painted with black paint until I could get painted with correct color of Sandlewood. Replaced Master Cylinder. Battery Tray, Inner fender around battery, and Radiator support area. There are some little dark spots, speckles in the paint in this area from the muffler man (who did the exhaust right out of body shop) who decided it was ok to flush off some battery acid (from him over charging my battery) with water he douced on top of my battery, as I tried to stop him, while requesting a rag to blot off the acid. Days Later I saw these spots...upsetting. I reminded Him of what happened, but He was not going to fix this !!! He just blew me off!!! Convertible Top is less than 3 years old. Electron Top made of Heavy Gauge Vinyl. The Boot and Well Liner are Legenday. The Top Frame was sanded and painted before the New Conv. Top went on. The Rear Window has a long Wrinkle near the top. I had the window unzipped and folded open laying in the well liner on a hot day while driving around. The Spring Tension wire on Passenger side needs replacement. The forward anchor Eye crimp let go. Not a big deal. Top Shop or Handy person can replace. Part is about $50.00 for a pair. I have a receipt and know where to get them. Interior Door Panels are Legendary, Seat uhpolstry NOS, Carpet is original style Heel Pad, Loop, Jut Backing and Color. Sun Visors new. NOS Sport Fury Nameplates on upper Door Panels. NOS Vinyl Sandlewood Yardage and Correct Carpet comes with the Car. Enough to make Floormats with Vinyl Trim to match the Center Console Carpet. This would look Great. The Carpet on the Back of bucket seats is a slightly darker shade of tan. Optional carpet color with Sandlewood interior. This came on the NOS Seat Covers, there may be enough extra Carpet Yardage (that comes with the car) to replace...not sure. I painted the Instrument Panel Black Satin with Silver trim. I Did not like the All Silver look. In 1965 Satilites went to black. This Dash plastic is Availible. The Rear plastic Door Panels with armrest need to be Painted (beside rear seat) I had to fiberglass repair one that broke. It came out good. They get a Satin Finish with Body color. Door Sills are Aluminum Reproduction. Very Nice, Two per side. Most of these Cars have Used or Old ones. The Arm Rest Chrome Plastic and Center Console is Painted Silver. Should be Chrome, You can buy chrome ones now. The center console is starting to pit under the paint, and needs to be rechromed. Seat Belts were Optional in 1964. I added these... They are the wrong color but close to the Inlays in seats and Door Panels. I think they should be Sandlewood. They don't look bad. No rear belts. Weather Stripping and Windlace Replaced around Doors, Trunk, Hood, and Roof Rails. Body Trim and Chrome. Nice Condition, but not perfect. All was buffed before Installed a couple years ago. Nice Grille, but has a few rusted rivets that could be drilled out and replaced. Tail lights housings need to be rechromed or replaced. (For Show) Vent Window Frames could be rechromed (For Show) The lower vent window plates and upper pivot point sockets and washers were rechromed a few years ago. The Latches are NOS with nice chrome. NOS Sport Fury Badges on upper Door Panels. Hood Ornament was Rechromed also. Not that great of a Job though. I sent it back, and they said give us another one, and we'll try again!! Right. I put a New 361 Decal on it. Looks Good. Bumpers Both need to be rechromed Engine 361ci Big Block, Professionally Rebuilt, Machine work and Heads by "Heads by Rick" Manely Valves. Stock Heads are same as 383/426 HP Wedge with 202 valves. Engine Bored .030" over, also Balanced. Chrome Molley Push Rods, ARP and Mopar Performance connecting rod bolts and Main Cap Bolts. Hardended Oil Pump Shaft, and High Pressure HD Oil Pump. HD Double Roller Timing Chain. Much More. Bottom End is Strong. Brass Freeze Plugs. There is some paint dicoloration around a few of the freeze plugs? Noticed it when I first started running the engine over 20 years ago, before it was even on the road. Never saw water leak though, even now. But it looks like there was some leaking? Strange! Maybe Weeping. I was going to just touch up the paint but have not done it yet. Lets just say to cover myself, there may be a leak or two. So it will need your attention. Currently Running Mobil 1 Oil after Engine Break-In 4000 Miles on Engine and Trans. The Engine Oil was changed at least 15 times since it was rebuilt 23yrs ago. I used Penzoil 10/30w than 10/40w After I started driving it, a couple years ago I changed it at 500 miles, than less than 2000 than 1000, than 400 more, and switched to Mobile 1 10/30wt Valve Cover Gasket is leaking on Drivers Side Rear. Engine probably around 310 horspower. Stock Camshaft for 383 and 426 wedge for 1964 was used. These hp engines had conservative Cams in 1964. So a Camshaft Swap would really bring this engine to life. Something like a 474/484 or even a 509 lift and Fuel Injection or a Better Intake and Holley Carb. Fuel System Fuel Tank is about 7-8 yrs old, Guessing. Installed 3/8" Fuel Pick-Up and Sender in tank, with Full Body 3/8" fuel line (nice, with factory bends) to Fuel Pump and out to Carb. Carb is an Edelbrock 600cfm (1405) Performer Series. Like an AFB (Carter) Intake Manifold is a Stock Cast Iron off a 1965 HP 383ci I think it's the same as 1964. It has a Carb Adapter because Throttle Plates are Larger than Intakes Holes! I have the Original Model Carter AFB for a 1964 HP 383ci...but it's missing the Shooters. It goes with the Car, along with the Rebuild Kit. Electronic Ignition Currently installed about 4 years ago is a Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition, and Electronic Voltage Regulator with a Duel Field High Output Alternator. This is the Correct way to install Electronic Ignition on early 60's Mopars. On Top of that, the High Amperage was reduced through the Firewall Bulkhead connector to The Amp Meter. This is an electrical upgrade for dependability. I have all the details and paper work. Battery It's 7-8 years Old and ready to be replaced, but will start the Car. It's a Gel that looks like the Original Tar Top (last year) for 1964. You can still get these. I don't trust it now. Transmission Rebuilt 4000 miles ago and 22 or 23 years ago, the same time as the Engine. Heavy Duty rebuild. The Fluid and Filter were changed three times so far. The Driveshaft to Transmission Tailshaft BOOT is bad. Needs replaced. Transmission kickdown is not adjusted right, won't kick down? If I try to run out second gear manually it acts like it slips when it gets up to 60mph? You can manually shift first out to 35-40mph and it shifts hard. When you let the Trans shift on it's own from second to drive, it never slips just shifts solid, but at a lower speed. The car will easily run over 100 mph without slipping in drive! I've driven on a few long Highway trips at 80+mph no problem. The Fluid is not burned! I was planning on upgrading to a Modern 727 Trans anyway. (no cable) Rear End Original Type if not the original one. It has the Tapered axle shafts which requires a Puller for the rear drums. Ratio is 276! Great on the Highway, and on Gas. It does leak at times around the front seal. Needs to be replaced, and sometimes when you put the car in Gear it clunks! Should probably upgrade the rear to 1965 through 1967 B-Body. I have One out of a 1966 Charger 383hp Sure Grip. My sell seperate..not Included with this Car. BrakesThe Rear Wheel Cylinders were replaced 3 years ago and the Shoes and Drums were done years ago and are good with only 4000 mi. now The Front brakes were also done with new Wheel Cylinders, Shoes and Drums Cut The front Brake hoses were replaced 20yrs ago but look new. Radiator was upgraded from a (2) two core to a (4) Four Core about 5 years ago useing the Original Tanks (just fit) A factory Fan Shrould was also added. It Runs Cool. I also replaced the Water Pump and Thermostat at the same time. It has the stock 4 blade Fan (no clutch) I could not fit a clutch fan in there. Glass Tinted, not Original which was Clear. Front Windshield is new as of 23 years ago not chrysler, 4000 miles on Road. Other Door Glass is Older Orignal Chrysler from another car, as are vents glass. Passenger side (door glass) has some small sanding swirl marks at very lower section near to of door. Probably from a sander. Does not stick out to bad. Quarter rear Glass is not Chrysler (no pentstar) but some markings (logo PPG?) are the same, print is different. Same Shade. Front End Completely Rebuilt. Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rubber Stoppers. Shocks.. Coil Overs, Front and Rear. About 6 years old, 4000miles. Steering Box was not replaced, but adjusted. Has Small leak. Rust in Cowl Just noticed a little water spot on the Top of the Cowl / Firewall at a Seam. There was a small blister in the Paint so I drilled it out with a hole saw and found some water had settled in this area. Should naturally drain but did not. I blew out the pocket with some compresed air and a few leaves blew out the Top Vents. Needs attention before it becomes something. The Car has been Garaged for 25 years and only washed a few times. This water was from one of the few recent washes! The leaves were really old! We're talking two or three. See Picture. I've tried to Spell it All out here so there would not be any Surprises. Probably Missed Something? If I did it's small, and does not matter when it come to the Price. The Mileage is unknown...I'm sure it's turned over 100k This is a Fine Car that needs to be Finished UP. I Ran out of Time. I'm shifting over to my Dad's project '69 GTS. I'll miss this Plymouth, I had it Half my Life. So Close to Finished. Call with Questions. Thanks, Jeff (772) 486-6127 I have a Folder Full or Receipts. Lots of Parts I did not mention, Including New Tires. On Apr-10-12 at 16:36:34 PDT, seller added the following information:Factory Tachometer and Harness is included. It needs to be repaired, and the Face/Dial is off white to light yellow.On Apr-16-12 at 15:29:26 PDT, seller added the following information:Dual Exhaust System is Aluminized (mostly won't rust)The Tips are steel, so need wax or light oil. The Mufflers are NOS HEMI..Sounds Real Good. Loud enough but not to Loud. The AM Radio, and Clock do not work. Clock was repaired two years ago, and worked for just over 1 year, just out of Warrenty. Electronic conversions had five year Warr. instead of one. (but they don't TIC, just HUM) Go with the Electronic upgrade!! The Turn Signal Lever does not return to Center from one direction. Need to center manually. Needs New Assy. is about 139.00 to 150.00 Reproduction.