1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass

Supreme Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

3J57M2M109490

Gasoline

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE Well, here it is! One very nice, low mileage example of a 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme in Radiant Green. A good friend of mine found this car for me in 2002 as a "barn find" in Greeley, CO. Come to find out it had been stored there by the original owner and then by his grandson for at least 14 years of it's life. It's been garaged since I've owned it as well. I'm the third owner, but only the second family, as it was purchased new in Greeley, CO by the first owner and "passed" down to his grandson. He took it to Idaho for a couple of years from what I can tell and it was in a fender bender before it was put back in storage in Greeley for the second time. They replaced the hood, fender, and drivers headlight assembly, and painted the front half of the car. When I got the car, I cleaned it up and upgraded most of the drivetrain to eventually make it what a 442 in a Supreme body style would have ran like, but much better. If you can imagine this car with the hood, wing, and W-30 Stripe package in white, this would be one mean and head-turning cool car! Anyway, that's the dream I had for it, but due to a lack of funds for "toys" and my priorities changing. Now for the goodies! Engine - Built by Goodings Performance in Fort Collins, CO Olds 455 - bored .030 from a late 60's Olds, it was a "red" colored block when I got it, for you Olds guys. Block no. 396021 F" block. I had the block "Zero" decked and installed Speed-Pro Forged Pistons to achieve 9.6:1 Compression! Rebuild kit from Summit Racing p/n TRW-L2323F30. Crank was turned .010 under and polished. I also installed Mondello's VT-581 valley tray. Cam is Comp Cams Hi-Energy Series p/n 42-224-4 designed for high-performance street, very strong mid-range, and rough idle. I used "C" casting heads and had them rebuilt with new valves, and hardened seats. Comp Cams roller-tipped rockers, guide plates, springs and studs. Timing Chain was Summits True Roller Chain kit. Intake - Edelbrock's Torker 455. Harmonic Damper from Professional Products. New water pump, oil pump also installed. Basically everything in the block has been installed new. This assemble has approximately 4k on it and has performed flawlessly since it was dyno-tuned several years back. Ignition & Distributor - Pertronix Flame-Thrower HEI type with high voltage coil pack, MSD 6AL Ignition Controller w/ Rev-limiter, rebuilt starter, and alternator. Fuel System - Carburetor - Barry Grant Speed Demon 750 w/ Mechanical Secondaries. p/n 1402010. K&N filter with the X-Stream Air Flow Top. Fuel Pump - Holley Red pump. Cooling System - New water pump, fan, and a reman stock type big block radiator. Also added electric "pusher" fan. Air Conditioning - The heater works great, although I don't usually drive it in cold weather. The A/C worked great when I swapped in the 455. All it needs is the rear bracket to the compressor modified a bit to accomodate the 455, as it came off of the 350. Easily done, and I will include the bracket and it should work once you get it hooked up. Also, none of the lines were disturbed during engine swap. Exhaust - Mondello Ceramic Coated Headers with 3" Collectors attach to 2 1/2" Dual exhaust w/ H-pipe flowing into Flowmaster's Super 40 Delta Flow Mufflers - Sweet sounding! Transmission - The stock 350 Turbo transmission was rebuilt years back. It wasn't that many miles ago though. It also has a B&M shift kit p/n 30262 Stage II. Shifts firm and hard on acceleration. It will chirp the tires on occasion! Tranny has been flawless although it is starting to leak out of the front pump seal gasket I believe. Leaves a few drops when parked. I installed a TCI Street-Fighter 10" stall convertor, which stalls out at about 3000 rpm. I elected to stick with the 350 because of it's lower first gear ratio. Differential - Stock GM 12-Bolt Posi from a 442 with 3:42 gears. Great gear, more than enough power off the line with the stall, but it also does great on the Interstate easily doing 75-80 with plenty of rpm's to spare. I changed the fluid on installation. I also installed a pair of boxed control arms and anti-sway bar from a 442. New rear shocks and stiffer springs to raise the back end to it's current rake, as the originals were sagging. Wheels and Tires - Centerline 15" Polished 15 X 8 on all four corners. Running Remington 235 60-15 on front and 295 60-15 on the rear. Rims are in excellent shape and the tires are have decent tread left. I also have access to a set of stock Olds Rallyes with tires if the winning buyer would prefer to swap out the existing wheels/tires. Front End - Stock with the exception of bushings being replaced. Basically that's the low-down on the drivetrain and with thousands invested in the engine this car runs strong! I forgot to mention that after I had the engine built, I had the car dyno-tuned. I have the specs. from that test and will go with the car. Again, this car runs awesome and has impressed several Olds guys with how strong and hard it runs for being a street machine. Just a couple of things that might need attention on the drive train is sealing up the tranny, but again only a minor leak, and replacing front shocks which I believe are the original Delco shocks. The engine has about 4000 miles on it since being rebuilt. However, the winning bidder needs to know that the car is tuned to and does run great at our 5K plus altitude, but will need to be re-jetted upon arrival if your location is much lower than ours. Body - The body on this car is in great shape due to being stored in a barn. It is in need of a re-paint and I've had several professionals tell me that this car would be an "easy one". As I mentioned before, the front including the hood and fenders has been repainted and they still look really good. From the doors back is the original paint and showing its age. I'm sure it all blended fine back when it was done, but now there's definitely a difference between the two. Depending on the lighting. I would classify it as a "20 footer", or good "Driver" paint. It does have very minor rust behind the rear wheels, but an easy fix and not that bad (see pics). It's also starting behind the front wheels under the stainless molding. Those barely show above molding. There are also the usual door dings from a car this old, and also the dent right on the back corner by the tail cap (see pic). The trunk lid has 3 or 4 small dings in it, and the bottom lip is just starting to show surface rust underneath when you open the trunk. Nothing major and shouldn't keep you from using this trunk lid. The drivers door is the worst for marks, as usual and has a spot where I think someone tried to blend in a touch up, but not that noticeable. All of these should be an easy fix for the right person. The front bumper is nice and shiny, but the back one has a surface spot where the chrome has flaked off. Should make a good core to re-chrome though. Mirrors are in excellent shape. Glass is in good shape, including a brand new windshield! I did replace the weather striping and chrome between the front door and back quarter glass when I got the car. Vinyl Top - Original Top that I "vinyl dyed" with three coats of Sail Cloth White. The top still looks great! Interior - This is one of the best parts of this car. The dash is in excellent shape. I added the rally sport steering wheel. I've replaced the chrome trim and installed a clock where there was none to finish out the three holes. I did decide to cut the dash, as there is such a limited selection for shaft units anymore. Right now, there's a Sony CD player with 6X9/s in the rear and Pro-Form kick panels with 5 1/4 Eclipse speakers. The sound system sounds great and looks factory installed because the brushed aluminum finish on the deck almost matches the heater control. I carefully cut and fit the woodgrain around it so as not to show the holes. The factory black and white bucket seat interior is all original except they recovered the drivers seat at one point and it's showing wear. The rest of the seats are original vinyl and the passenger bucket has small cracks. The back seat looks great with just a few small cracks, not bad for original vinyl! The door panels, side panels, and headliner are in excellent shape! The only obvious things that need attention are the front seats will need recovered to finish it out. The console chrome is showing wear, but it's all there and the lid opens and latches. The rear deck paper board needs replaced. I did replace the carpet and sound pad with factory type carpet from OPG. Undercarriage - The amazing thing about this car is the frame and underside. There are no rust flakes that I've found on the frame, floorboards, or trunk. Being a Colorado car helps this, plus it was stored for some 15 years. Should be ready to paint! Well, sorry for the long description, but I wanted list everything I've put in it and describe it as best I can. I've put alot of time and money into this Olds and I hope that it will go to someone who can take it the rest of the way. Keep in mind this car needs finished and it does have it's cosmetic flaws, but as I mentioned more than once, it runs great and has tons of power! I have all the receipts from building this car and all the original owners paperwork along with all the manuals and Protecto-Plate. I also have many more pics and would be happy to forward them to you. Serious inquires only for pics. Please ask any questions prior to bidding. I can be reached during the day (mountain time) 8 a.m. - 8 p.m. @ 970-290-2343 ask for Dave. Please, only serious bidders and no scammers! I reserve the right to cancel your bid if you have "0" or recent negative feedback. So if this applies to you, please email me before bidding. Car is sold as is, where is! There are not warranties expressed or implied on this car. You are buying a used car and although I tried to explain in detail, I may have missed something, so ask questions before bidding! Winning Bidder to pay all shipping costs and arrange delivery. I can help with meeting the carrier if it's a local (Northern CO ) carrier. Payment is as follows: Winning Bidder to pay a non-refundable $1000.00 deposit within 24 hours of auction ending. Paypal OK for the deposit ONLY. BALANCE DUE within 7 days of auction ending and to be paid by cash, cashiers check, or wire transfer. NO PAYPAL for the final balance! Car won't be released until funds have cleared my bank. I have a clear Colorado Title. You must be 18 to bid. Serious Bidders Only Please! You are entering into a legal binding contract when you place a bid, so bid accordingly. Note This car has been advertised for sale/trade locally and I do reserve the right to end the auction early if a buyer comes forward!