1987 Toyota Corolla

Hatchback

1.6L 4 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel

Manual

1NXAE87G7HZ403738

Gasoline

This listing is being updated after having completely cleaned the interior of the automobile and also having found the time to further identify any problems with the car that I was not aware of at the time of the initial listing. Other than the previously mentioned Idle Air Control Valve issue, and the E-Brake cable, I also found four interior rust spots that go through the unibody in the rear section of the car. Quite small but none the less they are there and you should know just what you are buying from me with no attempt to hide any issue either big or small thank you very much. All photographed very clearly for you to see what is involved in the restoration process of such a rare car. A good body shop man quoted me out at 750.00 for new correct factory color paint and the easy metal repair for the rust spots in the trunk and under the rear seat. The center console red lense light added by the prior owner is causing a voltage drop on the radio and wipers. Everything works, but you do notice the effects of a bad splice. Electrical work. It is not rocket science but does take a patient hand with a volt meter to find the offensive splice. The front brake pads are due. They are not grinding nor is there any rotor warp, you can just tell that the pads are old and due for a change out. The e-brake cable snapped at the e-brake/cabin end and will need to be replaced with new cable assembly. The Idle Control Valve is available right here on Ebay for about $100.00 dollars as most of the parts should be that you would ever need in the future to do regular maintenance. Easy part for the garage mechanic to change out the Idle Control Valve. That part replaced will make the engine run smoothly as all of the tune up parts have just been changed. Wires, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil and timing belt most recently changed by prior owner. The car runs strong. The IACV issue is on again off again so one day the car is zipping around at 36mpg on the pike with snappy throttle response to jumpy throttle response and surging idle conditions when in park or waiting for the traffic light to change. Change the part, fix the problem, simple solution. The body work is repairable seeing that the rust is minimal but unless taken care of will be the death of any metal car. The quote for body work I got was at a decent collision repair center that could have the car back in my hands within a week turn around time. So not being a very big car your body shop should have similar results delivering price and job time frame. These most recent images were taken on November 7th, Monday afternoon. The interior images are a real treat as the only tools used to clean the interior was a shop vac with soft tip brush for the dash/vent, stereo/tape deck controls. Not one drop of Armor All or any other chemical spray or wash was used to get this interior showing this well. With a proper shampoo and car recon, the interior of this classic will show quite nicely. I am adding the new images tonight of the effects of the car cleaning. For an added bonus I will be including a large tote full of same year FX16 Corolla parts that are a mass air flow sensor, an engine computer, an alternator and all kinds of misc directional lenses, hood grille and other handy spare parts for this model and year car. The tires look very good. Not leaking any air and properly balanced going down the road at 70mph. The exhaust is quiet and tight. The brakes are good, change the front pads now. The clutch slave has a small leak which is standard on this style and years made set up. My 1987 Toyota 4x4 cargo van has the same issue as well. All it is is a small rubber seal that happens to be up in the bottom portion of the drivers side dashboard. Not an impossible job, just need to work slowly in tight finger spaces. GoJo or Fast Orange for any residual fluids leaking out will quickly remedy that side effect of the problem. I can say that based on how this car goes down the road in both normal mode and in less than ideal mode with the on again, off again Idle Control Valve, you will be able to drive this back home. The mileage is correct and the engine compression is strong. Wheel bearings are all good with no noise from any of them. Shift linkage is tight. The steering is tight. Car just passed state of Maine shake down/inspection sticker recently and if you can pass that one in this state, and with such a Vintage car and in this economy, this car will get you to where you are going. Good Luck.