Detail Info for: Jeep : CJ CJ7 CJ 7, CJ7, CJ-7, Jeep Wrangler, off road

Transaction Info

Sold On:
03/27/2011
Price:
$ 8100.00
Condition:
Mileage:
20000
Location:
Lenexa, KS, 66215
Seller Type:
Private seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1985 Jeep CJ
Submodel Body Type:
CJ7 SUV
Engine:
6 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
1JCCF87E5FT009018
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

20,000 miles since frame off restoration, and only 5,000 miles on new engine. Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 The photos speak for themselves as far as condition is concerned. Please remember this Jeep is 25 years old. It is not perfect, but clearly one of the cleanest specimens of this era remaining. I have a hard top, soft top, and steel doors that go with this jeep. The doors only are rusty, as they are original. I have captured the blemishes in the photographs. THIS JEEP DOES NOT HAVE RUST. If you are just looking for a great running, good looking, go-anywhere jeep, you can stop reading. If you want to know every detail, I have done my best below. Gas Mileage: Highway- 18MPG City- 16MPG Engine: Promar Remanufactured 258 (4.2) long block with less than 5,000 miles. http://www.promarengine.com/ Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) system http://www.performancedistributors.com/ Autolite plugs with Accell low resistance wires 300CFM Weber carburetor http://www.redlineweber.com/ Aluminum valve cover New oil pan with new engine New Water Pump with new engine Higher output alternator than factory Notes: The best part about this engine is the aftermarket parts are from manufacturers that have been in business for decades. Everything else is straight from the auto parts store. You have to drive this thing to appreciate it. Steep angles are no issue for this carburetor designed to handle the G’s dished out by European race cars. It starts and idles on any hill, every time (something only an off-roader can appreciate). The torque on this thing is amazing (Classic inline 6 grunt with mods), and it will cruse down the highway at 70 MPH with ease. Broken-in per manufactures instructions, always synthetic oil. Exhaust: Aluminized steel, all welded front to back, with exception of collector after header. Header, with fiberglass wrap. Exhaust dumps out behind drivers tire, and is very quiet. A bung is welded in after the collector to install an exhaust gas analyzer. This helps with carburetor tuning. Steering: New power steering pump and (hard to find) high pressure hoses AGR Power steering gear box, http://www.agrperformance.com/ Heavy duty gear box mounting bracket (replaces factory stamped steel) from 4WD hardware Cross frame support member, to tie the gear box to both frame rails. DOM tie rod and drag link with heim joints at knuckles. Factory steering wheel and column.(Awesome) Flaming river steering shaft http://www.flamingriver.com/ Ball joints are about 30K old. Notes: These jeeps have a reputation for weak, vulnerable, sloppy steering. This jeep does NOT fall into any of those categories, but still looks factory. Transmission: T-5 5 speed 4.03:1 first gear, 0.86:1 5th gear, 3.76:1 reverse About 20K since new. Clutch: Mechanical linkage with heim joints throughout The clutch was new with the transmission Transfer case: Tried and true….Dana 300. Clocked flat to increase clearance under skid plate and break-over angle Twin stick shifter, fitted with factory shifters to maintain the original look U-bolt Yokes front and back (the factory strap yokes are supposedly weaker, though I never broke any) Low range is 2.62:1 Options: 2WD High Rear, for street driving 4WD High, for mud or snowy roads 2WD Low Rear, for slow easy trail rides 2WD Low Front, for front digs on tight trails 4WD Low, for difficult trails and rock crawling Front axle: Dana 30 3.73:1 gear ratio Superior gears, Timken bearings and races http://www.superioraxle.com/ Aussie Locker http://www.aussielocker.com/ Mile Marker lock out hubs http://www.milemarker.com/products/hubs.html Spicer U-Joints Timken wheel bearings and races U-bolt Yoke Rear axle: AMC 20 3.73:1 gear ratio Superior Gears. Timken bearings and races Superior 1 piece axle shafts http://www.superioraxle.com/ U-bolt Yoke Detroit Locker (Bulletproof) http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/DetroitLocker/index.htm Brakes: Vacuum diaphragm power brakes from YJ. Rubicon Express coated braided steel brake lines (front and rear) http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=RE-1552 I have wrapped the front hoses in split hose for added protection. Rotors and pads up front, drums and shoes in the rear, only a couple thousand miles on everything. Drum small parts kit was installed with last brake job Wheels: 15x8 American Racing wheels. Tires: BFGoodrich 31 X10.50 Mud terrain tires. This is my 3rd set of these tires. I swear by them. They will go 40-50K depending on how long you want to run them. Approximately 90% tread left. Exterior: Front bumper is reinforced, capped, square tubing. It looks almost factory, but is slightly narrower. Rear tow points are welded into crossmember and frame. Rock sliders are bolted to frame and will hold up the weight of the jeep. The body is rust free, and the underside has truck bed liner. The paint is not perfect, lots of little scratches, and the hood has some ripples. The rear corner by the gas tank filler has a pretty good dent that I covered in touch up paint, the front grill has a dent above the headlight, and the windshield frame has started to corrode. Not perfect, but check out the photos for more detail, this jeep looks good. Interior: Looks new. Nothing is hacked, nothing is rigged. Truckbed liner throughout. Seats/vinyl: The seats are near perfect. The back side of the visors have sun damage, but the side you see most of the time is perfect. The dash pad is perfect. All the seatbelts work. Back seat is fold and tumble, and it works. Both front seats slide, and pivot forward. Heater: I went through the heater a few years back and replaced all of the gaskets and sealed everything up. The very powerful blower motor is from a Chevy blazer, and will actually defrost the windshield easily. With the top on, the jeep will stay nice and warm. All the knobs work. Dash: Every light on the dashboard works. Every gauge does its job accurately. This dash is stainless steel and custom fabricated from a guy in California. Notice there is no radio cutout, but the pioneer waterproof speakers are sitting behind the exact speaker cutouts from the factory. Glove box interior is plastic. Console: The Pioneer 45x4 CD player was moved to the console. This prevents skipping, and keeps the new technology off the dashboard. The factory console in nicely modified to accept a radio, and has a very clean look. I also put together an anti-theft system that locks the radio away when the console is locked. Rear speakers: Pioneer 6x9 in speaker wedges. These are great because they are out of the way. Stereo sounds good for a jeep. You can hear it going down the highway. Suspension: 2” Lift (very flexible, see photos) Heavy duty shackles. All mounts and bushings are polyurethane, except the engine mounts (I always like the extra cushion of the rubber motor mounts, these are brand new however). Rancho RS5000 shocks on each corner. JKS U-Bolt skids under each leaf spring. JKS sway bar disconnects. http://www.jksmfg.com/

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