2001 Honda Insight

Hatchback

1.0L 995CC 61Cu. In. l3 ELECTRIC/GAS SOHC Naturall

Manual

JHMZE13711T000367

Clear

Hybrid-Electric

For sale is my 2001 Honda Insight 5 speed w AC. I’m in the military and when we moved to Louisville KY/ Fort Knox in spring 2013 I started an 80 mile round trip commute each day. Our other cars get 13 and 15 MPG so a commuter car with good mileage was an imperative. My time at Fort Knox is ending so the Insight needs to be sold. I bought this based on pictures only from a Chevy dealer in Wisconsin that took it in on local trade in spring 2013. It had 192xxx miles at the time and currently has 214xxx. Carfax reported 2 minor accidents I believe. Evidence of 1 was visible after I got the car – it drove over a curb or something similar and damaged the oil pan and the underbody aero panels. All repaired – see below. I have extensively upgraded / repaired many problem areas on this car and it is likely one of the nicest around – particularly when you compare it to other insights with 200k+ miles. I've averaged 60+ MPG while driving this for the last 2 years. Low tank mileage was mid 50s when temps were constantly below 20 outside and high was 72MPG for an entire tank. Lifetime MPG for the car is now 53.3 – it was 52.8 when I got it. If you aren’t all that familiar with 1st Generation Honda Insights and their cult following there are several online forums that contain the collective braintrust for these unique little cars. InsightCentral and EcoModder are two excellent sources. I've included a buyers guide after my description from the EcoModder forums which covers common areas to look at when considering an Insight - used this same list when I bought this insight. More Photos on my Google Drive in high resolution - send me a message as I can't get the clickable link to work correctly here. Interior: Seats – both in excellent condition. Many driver side upper bolsters are damaged with significant wear from the driver sliding in and out. I replaced the entire upper seat assembly from a used passenger side (tons of passenger seats are cheap on ebay but drivers seats are always junk due to heavy wear) (they are exactly the same except the passenger upper has a map packet in the back). I removed the seat covers from both the upper and lowers on both the driver and passenger sides. Then washed them on delicate in my front load washer, dried on low, and reassembled. They look fantastic. Driver side seat bottom has some wear / pilling of the fabric but overall in good shape. Carpets – I removed the original carpeting which was dirty and moldy and replaced with a brand new genuine Honda carpet – this is the actual molded carpet not just the floor mats. I added heavy noise insulation at the same time. Center Console – Honda did not offer a center console / arm rest. I installed an ArmRest King console – works great. Steering Wheel – stock plastic wheel replaced with Honda S2000 leather steering wheel – these wheels are exactly the same shape as the stock insight wheel (except leather rather than foamy plastic). This makes a tremendous improvement in feel (leather instead of plastic). Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror – installed a Mito Auto Dimming rearview mirror with outside temp display – custom colored in Amber (most are green or blue) to match the amber displays through the interior. Replaced the interior cabin filter for the first time in the cars life. Both rear hatch gas struts replaced – it holds up steady and lifts with minimal effort. Doors insulated with Dynamat Superlite in place of the leaky stock plastic water barrier. Electrics: All switches work correctly – no problems or malfunctions. I replaced the Trip Button in the instrument cluster which notoriously fails resulting in not being able to reset the maintenance reminder. I put LED bulbs in the interior lights to brighten them up. Kenwood KDC-BT955HD radio with remote Bluetooth Mic. JBL GTO 638 3 Way speakers installed in the front doors and rear shelf which was the optional factory speaker location. Speaker baffles installed to prevent water leaks which are common in this spot which causes wet interior carpet. IMA / Battery System: All systems related to the battery work correctly including the Start Stop System, IMA Assist, etc. The IMA light has never been on while I've owned the car – can't comment on previous owners. Grid Charger included.I've used a grid charger since right after I bought it. I put it on about once a month over a weekend to keep the battery’s cells equally charged. It starts properly on the 12V battery (had to recently due to 0 degree morning). I cannot say how old the main IMA battery is. When I was buying the car from Chevy dealer I called every Honda dealer in Wisconsin with the VIN to try to get service records and determine if and when the battery was replaced. A few dealers admitted to serviced it, but all refused to release any information about what was done or when. I called Honda North America to try to get records and they said each dealer was independent and they couldn’t help. I say all this because the IMA is the major “special” component in an Insight and it’s condition is likely the biggest concern. I’m pretty sure that with 200k+ miles the battery has been replaced (Honda extended the warranty on the IMA battery to 100K miles from new) but I have no record or information to prove this. The system works on my commute each day which has both significant uphill grades taken at 60+ MPH which discharge the battery while providing boost and downhill when the system recharges. Continued use of the grid charger should keep the system in good service. New batteries are readily available which improves the IMA performance over that when new from the factory. Tires / Wheels / Suspension New Bridgestone RE92s on all 4 wheels installed about 3k miles ago. These came from the most recent production run – not leftovers. Wheels are in decent shape – no significant curb rash but have some aluminum surface corrosion. GAZ adjustable rear shocks with KLR3CYL rear springs (Daewoo Maitz copies made in USA – check out InsightCentral for specifics but these are the best solution available to improve handling and ride quality) New passenger side front wheel bearing installed by local Honda dealer. Brakes: Complete brake job done which included all genuine Honda parts. New front rotors and pads, new rear drums (correct aluminum drums), shoes, and hardware. Rear driver side brake line replaced 2 weeks ago – this is the worst one to replace as it requires lowering the fuel tank to route the line correctly. Engine / Transmission: Replaced the oil pan with a genuine Honda one – this is magnesium and serves as the entire lower 1/3 of the engine block. A previous owner drove over something and repaired the cracks with JB Weld which held great with no leaks but wasn't a viable long term repair nor was it disclosed by the dealer. Fumoto oil drain valve installed to prevent that new oil pan from damage. EGR plate replaced with a new genuine Honda one along with the gaskets. Upper CAT and oxygen sensor replaced along with the mounting studs. I knew when I bought it that the check engine light was on and the code indicated a new CAT was required. Honda only sells the complete 2 part CAT at nearly a $1000. Aftermarket upper CAT replacements are available which is what goes bad. I couldn't remove the old oxygen sensor so I got a new Bosch one when I installed the cat. Spark plugs replaced with the correct indexed Honda plugs. Ground Straps replaced with genuine Honda ones. They weren't broken but replaced as part of preventative maintenance. New belt and idler pulley installed. Transmission is smooth shifting when upshifting 1 – 5 and in reverse. Typical with most high mileage insights the syncros are getting worn on 1st and 2nd gear. This is only when downshifting from 3rd into second or into first when still moving. I've gotten pretty good at “reading” the tranny and usually don't have to double clutch, but doing so pretty much eliminates any grinding of gears. Otherwise it works as it should. Clutch is smooth with even take up, no concerns from my perspective – not sure if it’s been replaced but they usually last a long time due to the small engine output, particularly when most of the driving is on the highway. Heating / AC: System works correctly – auto stop feature works when in ECON mode. New AC compressor installed – the clutch bearing started to whine so I ended up replacing the entire thing before it seized. There were no leaks in the system. Refrigerant recharged – ice cold air. Rear Defroster works but some of the lines are slow to fully heat up. There is some sort of very light tint on the rear window and I didn't want to remove it because it would probably break the defroster lines on the glass completely. It hasn't been a problem for the last 2 winters but it’s not perfect so I want to be upfront. The 5 round buttons on Heater Control assembly sometimes light up and sometimes don’t. Note sure of the problem but it’s never been a serious enough concern to warrant taking the dash apart particularly since I very rarely drive it at night and only realized it about 2 months ago. The LCD display itself lights up properly – just not the 5 buttons below it. The buttons work properly control wise – just no illumination at night. Exterior: Driver and passenger door window exterior molding replaced. This is the molding at the bottom of the windows. The black applique fades and peels off – these were new Honda parts. I had the windshield replaced soon after I purchased it due to chips and small cracks so excellent now. New Honda seals on the driver side door and the rear hatch. Hood emblem and rear hatch glass stickers replaced. Rear Window washer nozzle works – but the stream is rather weak. Windshield spray works correctly. All underbody aero panels are present. I replaced all the front panels and fasteners with new Honda parts. One of the full length panels was partially torn off in what I suspect was the same accident that damaged the oil pan. I got a replacement at the local auto recycler so all panels are now present. The front end and lower part of hood have many rock chips commiserate with 200k+ miles. Since the hood is aluminum and the fascia is plastic there is no rust concerns. But it’s not perfect, check the photos. I buffed both headlights and sealed them due to yellowing. Probably should be done again in the future. Here is a buyer’s guide / buyer’s tips that I used when I bought this Insight 2 years ago from the EcoModder forums. You'll note that everything on this list I've either repaired / replaced / or works fine. Summary: IMA hybrid battery pack condition Catalytic converter Driveability issues in lean burn from clogged EGR Corroded drivetrain-to-chassis ground straps Weak 12 volt battery problems Manual transmission problems CVT judder Missing original equipment (tires/aero panels) Other corrosion points (fuel/brake lines) Cracked engine mount Rear shock absorbers Misc ------ 1) Obviously: IMA hybrid battery pack condition Expect it to die at about the ~10 year mark, if it hasn't been replaced yet. It will last that long if used every day. It will die a lot sooner if the car sits unused for an extended period. If it is dead or ailing, there are several options that shouldn't scare the ecomodding type away (if the price is right, of course): You can refurbish one yourself; have it rebuilt; buy & install a used one; or buy new. Consider buying a grid charger to extend high voltage battery life, see 99mpg.com Or you can just drive the car with a dead pack (with IMA disabled), as I have been doing. You can still get phenomenal fuel economy, with some operational oddities. ------ 2) Catalytic converter If the cat code is lit, it could be an $1,200 (US) problem (new), or ~800 used depending on availability of used parts. Can be rebuilt for ~$300-400. Heat shields rust and rattle on both cats... use stainless hose clamps. ------ 3) Driveability issues in lean burn from clogged EGR A jerky low-load engine hesitation seems somewhat common on older, high km/miles cars. The EGR valve & manifold can clog, and results in engine bucking when transitioning into lean burn, or when throttle position is changed while already in lean burn. Many owners have resolved this simply by disassembling & cleaning the EGR system (manifold and/or valve). If you've never driven a lean burn Honda engine before, you may find the lean burn transitions a little unsettling until you get used to it. ------ 4) Corroded drivetrain-to-chassis ground straps/cables This can prevent the car's "back up" 12 volt engine starter from working, and other IMA issues & random dashboard lights to pop up. Most of the time, the ICE is started via the hybrid motor/generator. But the 12v starter is occasionally summoned by the car's computer, depending on ambient temperature, or if the hybrid functions are manually disabled (via the IMA - Integrated Motor Assist - ON/OFF switch). The cables/straps corrode internally. There are 3 to replace: two cables under the air filter, plus the battery ground cable. ------ 5) Weak 12 volt battery Make sure the 12v battery is in good shape; the car really does not exercise it very well. An ailing 12v battery will cause issues similar to the ground strap problems. A dying 12v will not necessarily be obvious, since the engine is normally started using the IMA motor & high voltage battery. ------ 6) Manual transmission problems Synchros: Second gear synchro is a weak point. You'll know if these are worn if the car won't shift smoothly, and/or "grinds" when shifting (especially when shifting quickly, and/or when the transmission is cold). Input shaft bearing: symptom is a low growling sound in first or reverse gears under power. Noise goes away in higher gears or if you turn up the radio. ------ 7) CVT (continuously variable transmission) judder CVT tranny has "judder" issues caused by dirty fluid, if you are lucky. CVT fluid is pricy and requires a lot for a flush. CVT clutch pack is a less likely the issue, but more easily fixed. ------ 8) Missing original equipment (tires/aero panels) LRR tires: Does it have Bridgestone Potenza RE92's, in size 165/65/r14, with good tread? Insight owners swear by the fuel economy benefits of these Insight-specific low rolling resistance tires. You will want them on your car. Aerodynamic underbody panels: Is the full suit of panels there? Maybe not - some may have been torn off, or not replaced after being removed for service. But a coroplast DIY set is at least as good -- if not better -- than original equipment. ------ 9) Other corrosion points (fuel/brake lines) The unibody and some suspension components may be made from corrosion-resistant aluminum, but there is steel used in various places that will rust and cause problems. The fuel line on the passenger side firewall has a rust problem at the anchor point. (The smell of gas when running the fan is a tip off.) Brake lines also need to be watched in rusty climes, and fluid should be changed ~ 3yrs. ------ 10) Cracked engine mount Bottom center motor mount will be cracked with age. Replacement is ~$75. ------ 11) Rear shock absorbers Rear shocks are big$$$, can be replaced with Monroes and and little engineering. ------ 12) Misc Driver's "auto down" power window switch is fragile, handle with care. Oil pan (magnesium) drain threads are FRAGILE. Instal Fumoto F106N quick drain. Use torque wrench. OEM Seat covers are crap. Go aftermarket, Wetokoles, COSTCO, etc. Lube window channels every fall with Shin Etsu or equal. Leaks in the A to B pillar trim over both doors will cause mold & musty smell - wet seatbelt/floor. Engine coolant fill is another thing that must be done correctly, or no cabin heat. Placing a Bid: Your bid constitutes a legally binding contract to purchase this vehicle. Please do not bid if you're not seriously interested or financially able to purchase this vehicle. Ensure you understand EBAY's user agreement. I reserve the right to: 1. Obtain and verify the registered information of all users who bid on this auction.2. Cancel any and all bids at our discretion, or end the auction early if necessary eBay Bid Retraction Rules: Please read eBay's "Retracting a Bid"1. If you place a bid before the last 12-hour period of the auction:You may retract that bid before that last 12-hour period but only for exceptional circumstances. You will not be allowed to retract that bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction.2. If you place a bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction:You will be allowed to retract the bid for exceptional circumstances but only if you do so within one hour after placing the bid Buyers Inspection: I have done my best to disclose all information known about this vehicle for auction. As I mentioned above I welcome a buyers inspection. If you plan to have a buyers inspection, please make sure you inspect the vehicle prior to the auction ending. Inspection fees if any are Buyers responsibility. Representations and Warranties made by seller: This vehicle is being sold "as is". No Manufacturer's warranty applies. Extended warranty may be available that is up to you to determine. No representations or warranties are made by seller, nor are any representations or warranties relied upon by bidders in making bids. Taxes and Registration fees: Any taxes or fees associated with the registration and licensing are the buyers sole responsibility. Title Information: Vehicle's title is clear, in my name and ready for transfer upon full payment and clearing of any funds. Shipping & Delivery:1. All shipping charges are buyer's responsibility. I am willing to help with shipping arrangements but will not be responsible in any way for claims arising from shipping damage!2. Local pickup in Louisville KY is fine.3. The bike must be either picked up or shipped prior to 27 April. We're moving to Washington DC for the summer then overseas so it can’t stay with us for very long. Finalizing your Purchase:1. I will contact the successful high bidder by e-mail after the auction closes.2. Successful high bidder MUST communicate with me via email and/or telephone within 24 hours of the auction ending to make arrangements to complete their transaction. If I cannot confirm your intention to buy or the sale is not completed within 3 days, we reserve the right to relist this vehicle or sell to any other qualified buyer. In order to secure bid on vehicle, Successful bidder (BUYER) must within 24 hours of bid closing send to Seller a Deposit in the amount of $500 via Paypal. Within 72 hours of bid closing, Buyer must send balance of funds by bank wire transfer, cash in person, bank certified funds to Seller.