1981 Volkswagen Rabbit

Naturally aspirated Diesel two door hatchback

1.6 Diesel

Manual 4 speed

1VWBG0174BV136277

Clear

Diesel

You will get the car but not the contents you may be able to see in the pix, except that you will get door cards and back seat/storage cover if you want them, all fragments of driver's window that are still in the car, six quarts of synthetic blend diesel engine oil and a new oil filter in the box. If you wish, you will get a few kind words. Transporting this car from where it is to where you want it to be will be your responsibility. I will help a little with phone calls and things like that. (shouting) SEE BELOW !! If your transportation cost to move this car is large, small, or essentially zero, and regardless of who you are, you will get $150 USD, CASH BACK. Deals like this are hard to equal and impossible to beat. If you arrive with your trailer or dolly or flatbed, I will refund you $150 out of what you paid. If your agent arrives, I will refund you $150 out of what you paid. If you live down the street or across town from me and I just don't know it, I will refund you $150 out of what you paid. $150 allowance for your transportation cost paid to you. Cash American money. Very simple. On top of that, I will entertain, but not necessarily accept, your best offer in lieu of requiring you to wait out the auction and compete with other bidders. I will give anyone else who may be bidding a chance to see your offer and make his own offer if he wishes, should you make an offer that I am willing to accept. I will do the same for you if someone else makes a yummy tempting offer. Tell your friends. T-boned January 2014 in driver's door and back quarter; left rear wheel disabled. Around 12,000 miles on first-class engine remanufacture that cost over $3M; has attained 48 mpg on road. I haven't worked on timing the pump to try to get the 50+ mpg I have heard claimed. Would cruise easily at 75-80 mph, but it wouldn't get 48 mpg doing that. Low to middle 40's in mixed driving. Does not mark its territory with oil drops. Has block heater, which I did not use this winter. Starts easily in 20 degree weather on glow plugs. Do you know the differences between repairing, rebuilding, and remanufacturing? Repairing means find what's wrong and fixing it. Example of repairing: restore alternator output by installing new brushes. Rebuilding means disassembling, inspecting, and reassembling with new components as appropriate. Example of rebuilding: Restore function of Mercedes 3.0 Liter, 5 cylinder diesel engine by cutting out a broken connecting rod, installing a good used crankshaft (old one was bent .030 in.; crankshaft shop wouldn't try to straighten it, not realizing that it would be no more junk if broken than bent .030 in.), whisk/resize big ends of all five, install one good used connecting rod, reassemble long block. Remanufacturing means disassembling, inspecting, re-machining as appropriate to restore fits and clearances as in the original item, and reassembling with new components as appropriate. There's a difference. Parts Place in Michigan will sell you a remanufactured 1.6 L Diesel long block without accessories for $2,296 plus shipping. You can probably buy this car with as good an engine as theirs and all-good accessories for less than that, and also get oodles of good parts I replaced. Parts Place will sell you a remanufactured head appropriate for this block for $470 exchange plus shipping. This engine has one of their heads, and I can tell you they are good. Majorly good. Parts Place says most shops screw up VW heads, and I have to agree. The first shop (a production head rebuilder) screwed up my head; they belt sanded the deck, made it rocker-shaped (as in rocking chair), and it blew a gasket. They also did not replace the most worn-out valve guides and seats almost anyone has ever seen. Thieves. Learned my lesson (again). You almost never get something for nothing, nearly nothing, or way less than it's worth in commerce. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. VW Diesel head gaskets are not cheap. The time and hassle to diagnose a just-barely blown head gasket is a first-class pain in the arse (that's British for ass), not to mention the recovery and consequential cost and time. I have had this car for about ten years. Spent a ton of money repairing/replacing loads of parts in last three yr. Details on request. Spent a young fortune making it shift right and always find the right gear. Replaced main shift rod, and those are not easy to get (NLA from Volkswagen). This makes the car go into reverse when you want it to, for any who don't know (I didn't until told by my VW parts man.). Replaced every wearing part in front suspension except for one tie rod (both ends OK) and the strut bearings. All rubber boots either good or (mostly) replaced in last two yr. All CV joints good (drive axle replaced one side with remanufactured item in last 9 months) and securely booted and greased. They will last forever if you keep them securely booted and greased. New struts or cartridges in last two years; one rear strut damaged in wreck. Windshield wiper motor stripped out drive gear; it turns but it doesn't wipe. Junk radio. Heater seems weak, but it does work at least some. Brakes all good. I'm easy on brakes and attain remarkable pad and shoe life. One headlight adjuster perished in wreck (the curse of aged plastic got it) ; headlight looks down at the ground in front of bumper. Nearly new tires (few thousand miles only); tire on disabled wheel is holding air. All glass good except driver's window, which is in one million pieces. You get the pieces; there is absolutely no guarantee you can find all of them and/or reassemble the broken window. Dash is not cracked. No important rust damage. One good rust repair in top left back corner. I even replaced the battery tray eaten by a stone age battery $$$. Car is nearly perfect mechanical donor. Has Optima battery, which cost less than replacing the battery tray eaten up by other batteries before I ever saw the car, and can be mounted upright, on any side, or upside down. New radiator with the overhaul. Old one started leaking when rebuilt engine fired first time. Curses. Heater core holds water. Check: lots of them don't. Recent rebuilt alternator, just about last thing I did for it, except for new Halogen sealed beams. I hate to see it just go to crusher with no parts, particularly the engine, saved. I have tried to find a sound derelict unibody with no luck. If I had a secure weatherproof place to cache the car and all the parts I'm bragging about, I would do it in a New York minute. Ask any question you wish. You may inspect all you desire and see/hear it start/run before closing. If you have been around these cars, you know that odometers fail. Actual mileage believed to be astronomic; I have replaced odometer three times. May have Texas Salvage Title by time sold. Ask any question that comes into your mind. I will answer it if I can. I will refund you $150 against your shipping cost, if it is large, small, or essentially zero, just as I say above. What a deal. I doubt seriously you can do a little work and drive away, but you may try if you wish, subject to my approval of what you propose to do to make it drivable, if you want to do the work in my driveway.. I won't OK you trying to raise the left back corner with a skyhook and drive away on three wheels. If you want to try that, do it on your own time, place, and nickel. If you do drive away, you still get the $150, and I will have learned something from you. If you have fewer than five positive feedback as a buyer, we need to talk about this. If you won't talk to me, I will have to assume you are like or maybe even the same lowlife who won the auction the last time I listed this car, and I will have to cancel your bid. Very simple: kicking tires is OK and expected; ask any question you wish and I will try to answer. Spoof your friends if you have any. Only real bidders wanted. You may contact me through eBay, or my email is rebighampe@yahoo.com My telephone number is 979-820-2964. Call between 8:30 AM and 1:30 PM Central Daylight Time or after 6 Central Daylight time weekdays or anytime on weekends. I can't answer at other times, but you may leave voicemail or you may text me. Bidders asked penetrating questions the last time I listed this car, and I posted them for all to see. I don't know if the Q&A will show up with this listing, and you may have to go to the previous listing to see it, or ask me and I will try to get it for you. I did the best I could (not very good, but still the best I could do) with the pictures. I promise you the car is not sideways. What else is there to say, except this is a hell of a good deal for the right person? One more thing: I reserve the right to end this listing at any time. So get in here and bid !! Bid often and high !! Huzzah, huzzah, huzzah !! Tiger !!