Detail Info for: Chevrolet : Nova Sport Coupe 1966 Chevrolet Nova Sport Coupe 2 door Hardtop

Transaction Info
Sold On:
11/27/2013
Price:
$ 8300.00
Condition:
Mileage:
97000
Location:
Washingtonville, New York, 10992
Seller Type:
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1966 Chevrolet Nova
Submodel Body Type:
2 dr Hardtop
Engine:
283
Transmission:
4 Speed Manual
VIN:
115376Nxxxxxx
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
More pictures later today! It was raining so I took one to get ad going..... 1966 Chevy Nova Sport Coupe 2dr Hardtop (No Post): I installled all the SS equipment: Bucket seats, Console, Front Sway Bar & SS badges. The car has a rebuilt 283 V-8, casting date in 1966, & a 4 speed Manual Trans with a Hurst Shifter. The car runs & drives well. The car needs paint, note it was originally a Marina Blue car, which is a metallic medium blue, a nice & desireable color! The door jams are still Marina blue. The engine was rebuilt a few years back, has 30K on it & has a performance cam. Also has an Edelbrock Aluminum Intake & M/T aluminum valve covers, a Rebuilt 600 Holley 4 barrel carburetor, a Mallory Dual point distributor & Mallory coil. The car has headers & turbo mufflers, no tail pipes. Rebuilt master cylinder & all wheel cyl's were rebuilt, some new brake lines, shoes are good. 10 Bolt open rear. The black interior is okay, dash cover good, 2 small holes where a tach was, I may have a small tach to fit this.The driver seat has a split, the passenger seat is nice, the rear seat bottom has a split. The headliner is good, it's out, but can be put back in, rods still in it. Car needs inside front door panels. The Center Trunk Pan is new, welded in professionally, so when looking inside trunk, the side seams are not visible, they have been ground smooth & finished over to a flat surface, undetectable. The drivers floor pan was repaired, a couple of small pieces were welded in, looks good from underneath. The other 3 pans are original & look good. No holes in doors, floor braces, rockers, rear wheelhouses, inner quarters (behind rear wheel inner panels) are good too (trunk drop-offs) . The Sub-frame tubing/channels have no rust holes, the trunk lid has no visible rust holes. No cracks in the glass, windshield has a slight streak on pass side, could be polished away. No rust holes around windows. I pulled off rear window trim, saw no holes, wire brushed channel & painted it with Rustoleum Stop-rust brown primer. The right rear Quarter bottom panel (furthest area, behind wheel) is welded in & finished! Only a few inches at the bottom was needed, so the seam is not visible when looking insde trunk. The left needs doing, it's just clamped on (but the metal drop-off panel behind it is good). The bottom front's of the Rear Quarters have no rust holes. Note the Rear Quarters are original! When looking inside trunk, the spatter paint is still on them. There is some filler on left outer quarter under gas cap, needs attention, but looks & feels okay inside trunk. No rust holes visible on Trunk Lid. There's a small crease in driver's door, a couple of dings on body but no big dents. The top of cowl has no rust holes, the front side upper corners have some pitting, but no holes. I put on a good used ball bearing idler arm (they don't make them anymore), for easier & tighter steering. I replaced some bushings in the front suspension when I got the car in 1998, didn't get around to aligning, so it needs a wheel alignment. The headlights, tail lights, & brakes lights work, parking brake works, gas gauge, heater & wiper motor all work. This was my friends cousins car, last registered in 1985, & then in barn for 13 years. I bought it in 1998, kept it garaged on & off for the past 15 years, never registered it. The paperwork I have is dated 1985. The 97K miles is correct, it's never been "around the clock". I worked on it over the years, started it up every year, but never got around to doing a complete paint job or registering it. I hate to sell it but I lost my job & need money. Feel free to e-mail or call with any questions! View my Feedback, it's been 100% for the past 9 years straight, so Bid with Confidence! I Do Not End Auctions early, not fair to Bidders. No Buy it Now's, No Trades. NOTE: Bidders with Feedback Count less than 10, and/or less than a 99% Feedback Rating, e-mail me first, otherwise bid may be cancelled. I'M WORRIED ABOUT BIDDERS OFF THIS CONTINENT OR MEXICO/CANADA. IF YOU WANT TO BID PLEASE EMAIL ME FIRST, OTHERWISE BIDS MAY BE CANCELLED. The car is available for inspection by appointment before the end of ad. INSPECTIONS SHOULD BE COMPLETED BEFORE THE END OF THE AUCTION! DONT BID UNTIL YOU HAVE LOAN APPROVAL!!!! Don't bid if you have not cleared it with the wife, do that first. Most wives don't like more old cars around, or any old cars around sometimes, only the cool ones do!. Should you have a family crisis after you have placed your bid, please contact me to cancel it before ad is over.. If you would like a photo of a particular area, contact me with your request, and I will try and get it to you. PAYMENTS FOR VEHICLES: A $ 500.00 Paypal deposit must be paid at the end of auction in 2 days. PLEASE PICK UP CAR WITHIN 7 DAYS, OR PAY IN FULL. CAR CAN STAY HERE AT MY HOME FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS IF PAID FOR, BUT GET INSURED IN CASE SOMETHING HAPPENS. IF THIS IS A PROBLEM, PLEASE E-MAIL BEFORE AD ENDS SO WE CAN DISCUSS. Payment of Balance: I prefer bank to bank (wire) transfer's made in advance to pickup date; or cash at time of pickup. I will accept Certified Bank checks (no personal checks) for the final payment, provided I receive it in advance of approx. 5 days before car is picked up (to give it time to clear). That is, it must clear before the vehicle leaves. I also will not give ownership papers out until a bank certified check clears. Titles/paperwork will be sent priority mail to you once the bank wire transfer has gone through, and my bank tells me the money is in my account for real. If a certified bank check was sent: I will not mail ownership papers out until the bank certified check clears. If you do not send a $500 Paypal deposit in 2 days, or don't come for car, or contact me in 2 days, I will think you are not a serious buyer, not wanting to complete sale. I will have to put negative feedback to your account. I do have to say, because this car is used, it is sold as-is, no warranty. But if you are dissatisfied about something, please contact me BEFORE LEAVING FEEDBACK, and I will try to rectify the situationOn Nov-22-13 at 01:22:07 PST, seller added the following information: UPDATE! I TOOK TWO PICTURES, but had to stop to help neighbor with his plumbing problem. Will take more Friday & post.On Nov-23-13 at 20:12:19 PST, seller added the following information: NEW NOTE: I POSTED PICTURES OF THE BOTTOM BACK INSIDE METAL FOR REAR QUARTERS (CALLED THE TRUNIK DROP-OFFS). THEY ARE ORIGINAL. I FORGOT THE TRUNK PICTURE BUT WILL TAKE SUNDAY AFTERNOON & POST. On Nov-26-13 at 09:29:47 PST, seller added the following information: MORE INFORMATION: I NOTICED THE DRIVER SIDE FLOOR BRACE HAS ABOUT 5 INCHES OF RUST-OUT AT THE INNERMOST EDGE. ALSO I FORGOT TO MENTION THE BOTTOM OUTER CORNERS OF COWL HAVE AN APPROX. 3 INCH HOLE. THIS IS TYPICAL FOR THESE CARS AS THE WATER GOES IN COWL WHEN RAINING AND SITS THERE. THEY ARE HIDDEN BY THE FENDER BOTTOMS WHICH CURVE IN. I WAS GOING TO LEAVE THEM & USE THEM AS DRAIN HOLES FOR THE COWL.