1986 Honda Nighthawk

1986 HONDA NIGHTHAWK S CB700SC VIN# JH2RC200CGM202681 ORIGINAL OWNER! VERY, VERY CLEAN, NEAR SHOWROOM CONDITION OWN A RARE, TIMELESS PIECE OF MOTORCYCLE HISTORY THE ULTIMATE AND FINAL EVOLUTION OF THE UJM VERY FAST, COMFORTABLE, FUN SPORT TOURING MOTORCYCLE I purchased this motorcycle new April 8, 1988 from a dealership in the Detroit area where I worked as a mechanic. Our sales staff did a dealer search and found that this motorcycle was the last new available red, white and blue CB700SC in the United States. By 1988 it was well known that the CB700SC was no longer in production so I was very happy to become the lucky owner of a brand new Nighthawk S! This motorcycle has been impeccably maintained. I have been a professional motorcycle, automotive and aircraft mechanic since the early 80s and have been the only person to ever lay a hand on this bike since new. I have never used anything but genuine Honda parts and fluids. Except for break-in, it has always been run with Honda HP4 10W40 synthetic oil. It has always been garaged, never stored outdoors. The only aftermarket parts installed on this bike are a Barnett clutch and K&N Stage 2 Dynojet Kit. The stock clutch started slipping at around 9000 miles (in 1991) so I installed the Barnett and that’s the clutch that’s in the bike now. I installed the Dynojet kit in 1998 and what a difference! I took the time to really dial in the carbs perfectly – I removed and installed the carbs 8 times to get them perfect. Much more to set than just jetting. It’s easy to get the jetting and adjustments to where it will run good – it takes a lot more time to make sure it’s as good as it can be. This bike performs way better than stock, with no loss of reliability, starts and idles like stock. When it was new I installed the Hondaline luggage rack. The bike has been laid down twice (1992 and 1999). The first time I hit a small lake of transmission fluid left by a car ahead of me at a stop light. The second time I came around a turn at low speed and an asphalt truck had coated the whole lane ahead with black slippery tar. Both lay downs were low speed, no injuries but did quite a bit of cosmetic damage. Besides that, 2nd gear was popping out so a frame-up restoration was in order! The restoration took place in 2000 at 20,990 miles. Current mileage is 26,185 so only 5195 miles since the rebuild. I did the restoration at a perfect time - most parts were recently discontinued but still available. The list of parts replaced is too long to list here but I’ll summarize the important details of the restoration (I still have the parts receipts totaling about $3000, ALL Honda parts): Everything painted Red, White and blue was replaced with new from Honda: fuel tank, front fairing and windscreen, front fender, both sidecovers and rear cowl! Steering head bearings, front forks and front brake calipers re-sealed and rebuilt. Rebuilt transmission - second and forth gears, shift forks replaced. Cylinder head reconditioned. Engine disassembled and inspected. Swingarm bearings cleaned, lubed and adjusted. Driveshaft u-joints and slip joints cleaned and re-greased. While I had the cases split to repair the transmission I checked all main and rod bearing clearances, all to new specs – bearings looked like new. I also installed a new oil pump for good measure. ALL engine and transmission seals and gaskets were replaced. Here is what didn’t get rebuilt during the restoration: The final drive gearcase. It is ultra reliable and should never need to be rebuilt. I did not recondition the cylinders. Cylinders and pistons looked great – no scoring, plenty of crosshatch on cylinder walls. To this day the cylinder compressions are great and it burns no oil. Nighthawk S buffs will notice that the cylinder head cooling fins are machined aluminum and not blacked out as they should be on the 1986. The second lay-down damaged a couple of cooling fins on the right side of the cylinder head. I installed a lower mileage cylinder head off of a 1985 CB700SC. The head was disassembled, inspected, all carbon removed, valves lapped, new valve seals installed, hydraulic lifters cleaned and primed. Why did I install a 1985 head? As much as I love the blacked out look of the 1986 model, I think the machined aluminum cooling fins on the ’85 head compliment the aluminum carbs and exhaust clamps. It just looks “right”. A nice custom touch cosmetically. If you really want it to look original you could easily paint the edges of the fins black. At the top I said “near” showroom condition. I believe in being very honest so here are the few and only flaws on an otherwise showroom condition motorcycle: There is visible wear on the rear of both mufflers. Not road rash damage, but where the black chrome was rubbed through over the years from passenger feet or whatever. The finish is smooth and shiny, just the black is worn off in spots (see rear wheel pics). There is some rust pitting on the exhaust headpipes but barely noticeable from a few feet away. The pitting is on the inside and underside of the pipes where you don’t see it. The black chrome exhaust hides it very well unless you’re really looking for it up close. There is a scuff and a couple of small scratches on the top of the fuel tank in the blue paint (see pic). The turn signal switch plastic knob broke off and I replaced it with a rubber cap. Front turn signal switches are on ebay all the time for about $50-$70 but it was never a big deal to me. The front turn signal rubber mounts that go around the fork tubes are cracked but the turn signals are secure and don’t move. There are two small tears on the bottom edge of the seat cover, one on each side, right above the helmet locks. The tears have been there for many years and haven’t grown. The paint is worn off of the rear edge of the clutch cover and some bolt heads from the right foot. Paint is also worn off the handlebar clamp from keys rubbing on it. I’ve touched up the paint in these areas before but it’s just normal wear from boots and keys. Before putting it up for sale I have just done all maintenance including: Flush front brake and clutch fluids with Honda DOT4 brake fluid. Final drive oil changed with Pro Honda 80W90 gear oil. Fresh Honda HP4 oil and new oil filter. Cleaned and re-oiled K&N air filter. Synchronized carburetors. New NGK spark plugs. Lever pivots, brake pedal linkage and throttle cables lubed. I will be installing a new Bridgestone Battlax BT45 rear tire and new rear brake linings before the new owner takes delivery of the bike (parts on order at time of listing). I will also touch up the paint on the rear wheel while it’s removed to install the new tire. This is one of the most maintenance free motorcycles ever made - hydraulic valve lifters eliminated valve adjustments, shaft drive eliminates chain adjustments and mess. This bike will need nothing but minimal routine maintenance for years to come. Why am I selling it? Regretfully, tough economic times for my family force the sale of a motorcycle I thought I would keep forever. I ask this of the buyer – if you ever decide to sell it, please contact me first!! When our financial situation improves, I would be more than happy to buy it back. When you buy this Nighthawk, you will be investing in a very well preserved, rare, desirable, 25 year old Honda that will only continue to rise in value. Last year, during better times, I turned down offers of $4500 and $4250. I have the original bill of sale and warranty paperwork, dealership mileage certificate, original owner’s manual, all receipts from the restoration and a clear Michigan title. Besides being a really, really fun bike to ride, the public response is great! To people who know, they’re always impressed with the condition and share their love of Nighthawks, Hondas and motorcycles in general. To those who don’t know, their eyes pop and jaws drop when you tell them it’s a 1986! A testament to the Nighthawk S timeless styling. It’s also a lot of fun to surprise modern 600cc sportbike riders when you run with and sometimes beat them from roll-on street races! Sure, they’re faster over 100mph but who needs to go faster than that on the street? Running up through 4th gear is soooo fun, turbo-like powerband rush from 8500 to 11,000 rpm (especially with the Dynojet kit)! It’s also a bike that’s really nice to just cruise. A truly great sport-touring bike with the emphasis on sport. Please contact me about shipping and delivery options. I am willing to deliver the motorcycle within a 3 hour radius of Austin, Texas (including Dallas and Houston) for just the cost of fuel. I am willing to take it further but for a resonable fee. I got a quote from my local UPS store of $800 to ship the bike from Austin to Detroit in an enclosed, motorcycle specific trailer, no crating necessary. Any questions are welcomed. I also have more pictures or could take and send specific pictures per request. All paperwork and receipts will be saved for the winner. PICTURES DON’T DO THIS BIKE JUSTICE. IT LOOKS AMAZING! THANK YOU FOR LOOKING AND TAKING THE TIME TO READ ALL OF THIS! GOOD LUCK, AND IF YOU BUY IT – CONGRATULATIONS!