1952 Ford

Pickup truck

6 - Cyl.

Manual

F3D2LB15147

Gasoline

You’re looking at my 1952 Ford F3 (1 ton) pickup. It’s a fun driver as-is, or could be restored easily. I bought it on Ebay several years ago. It came from Colorado, so it hasn’t seen road salt like a New England truck. Since it’s been in Maine it hasn’t been driven in snow. Maine does not title vehicles over 15 years old. This truck is sold with a bill of sale only. It is registered in Maine as an antique and driven frequently during the summer months. Due to comfort issues I wouldn’t look forward to driving it cross-country, but I believe it would make it and local travel is no problem. It never fails to receive comments and thumbs up when I drive it. It has the 215 cu. in. ohv (not flathead) 6 cyl engine, new for Ford in 1952. Due to its better breathing ohv configuration, it has nearly the horsepower of the flathead V8 in 52. The engine is believed to be original. This truck has a 4.86 rear axle and the heavy-duty 3-speed floor shift transmission. It is synchronized for upshifts and 3 to 2 downshifts. 2 to 1 downshifts are non-synchronized. That’s not a problem for normal driving; with the 4.86 axle it will start out in second gear easily. This truck will do 75+ mph on a flat road, and can cruise at the 65-mph interstate speed limit when it needs to, though with its low gearing it’s happier below 60 mph. When I got this truck the original odometer read approximately 34,000 miles. The cable was disconnected, the speedometer didn’t work (seized input shaft), and I don’t know the actual mileage. It runs like 34,000 could be original, though actual mileage is likely higher. It starts easily and there is no unusual smoke or noise. It now has a working replacement (original style used) speedometer that shows 98,206 miles at the time of this writing. It will be a bit higher as auctioned since I still drive it. It has been rewired, and converted to 12V negative ground with an alternator. The original generator and voltage regulator are included for purists. A 12V electric 2-speed wiper conversion has been done, and a custom electronic regulation circuit provides 6V for the original gages, which all work. Dual filament sockets (and new lenses) have been installed in the front parking lights, making them turn signals as well (original sockets and lenses included). This eliminates the fender-top signals. New halogen headlights and new, original style taillights have been installed. A dropping resistor was installed so that the heater blower works as it should with the current 12V supply. The original trumpet style horn has been adjusted and works fine on 12V using the original horn button and horn relay. Other than the wiring and electrics, I’ve done the following repairs and maintenance: *Replaced rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders with new parts *Replaced carburetor with a NOS Holley like the original (original included) *Replaced exhaust manifold, original had cracks and a small hole *Full tune-up with a new vacuum advance unit and an electronic trigger replacing the points in the distributor *Changed oil and filter *Adjusted valve clearance Needed mechanical work: Over several months the brake fluid level in the master cylinder gradually drops. Also the brakes sometimes grab at the first application or two after it sits a while. I suspect a seeping front wheel cylinder, since the rears have been replaced, or possibly the master cylinder. The parking brake didn’t hold because the parking brake band needs to be relined. Without lining material the steel band dragged on the drum and made a scraping noise. It has been removed, could easily be re-lined and reinstalled, and is included. Neither of these items are issues with antique plates, which don’t require safety inspection in Maine. Non-original bits: The installed fuel pump is from a later application. I have a rebuilt, correct pump, including the glass sediment bowl. The installed pump works fine so I haven’t changed it. Since the original type fuel pump sediment bowl is not installed, I’ve added an inline fuel filter between the pump and carb. The electrics have been converted to 12V as described above. I have the original 6V electric wiper motor, but it is incomplete. The truck originally had 17" 8 lug split rims and 17" tires. I got it with 16" 8 lug rims and tires. 2 are split rims and 2 are drop-center rims. They work fine but are not correct. The tail light brackets are homemade. They look presentable, and are stronger than the originals, but not "correct". The original turn signal switch fell apart and was replaced with a similar style but non-original switch. The original ignition switch was replaced with a generic key switch because it wouldn’t turn. The original switch is currently misplaced, but will be included if I find it. Body / glass: The windshield is good for a driver with one insignificant chip. All other glass is missing or needs replacement or reinstallation. The rear window is there but cracked. The vent windows are there but yellowed and bubbled. The main door glass is missing on both doors. The doors need window tracks, etc but the lift mechanisms work. All of the window mounting / sealing rubber is old, hard, cracked, and should be replaced when new glass is installed. Extra support has been welded into the bed near the tailgate. It makes the bed very solid, but is not original. The tailgate works, but could use additional straightening or replacement. The front stake pockets are rusted at the bottom. The bedsides have rust bubbling along the wood line due to the wood trapping moisture. It’s flat metal and an easy fix. The wood in the bed is old, rough, and has missing sections. The metal strips are there and intact, but could use sand blasting and paint. This truck has never been repainted. The sun has burned off much of the original paint on horizontal surfaces. Where the paint is gone there’s a surface patina of rust, but the underlying metal is solid as seen in the pix. It had been sideswiped on the driver’s side, which damaged the fender and running board (before picture is included). Both have been mostly straightened but need more work for perfection. The original driver-side running board brackets are bent. They could be straightened but I have included good used replacements, not yet installed. The cab has an old dent above the passenger side of the windshield, filled with Bondo (old, cracked repair). There are minor fender rust areas shown in the photos, but it’s remarkably solid for a 59-year-old truck. Even the floor is intact on the driver’s side and only has a few small holes on the passenger side from water leakage past the window seals. New / NOS / NORS / Repro / Used Parts: While I’ve owned this truck, I’ve accumulated parts as the opportunities presented themselves, either for current or future need. A list and status follows: New Repro Ford Factory Service Manual New Repro Ford Operator’s Manual Seat, good used – needed – installed, may be later year but original style, original included Exhaust Manifold, good used – needed – installed, original included Water Pump, NORS – future contingency – not installed Fuel Pump, NORS – future contingency – not installed Carburetor, NOS – needed – installed, original included Ignition Coil, New 12V – needed – installed, original 6V coil included Glove Box Liner, Repro – needed – installed Parking Lamps, New Update (dual filament) – needed – installed Tail Lights, New (original style except chrome) – needed – installed Clutch Disc, NORS – future contingency – not installed Wiper Motor, New Update (12V 2 speed) – needed – installed Radiator, good used – future contingency – not installed Pedal Pads, New Repro – not installed Door Mirror, New Repro hinge pin mount mirror – not installed I’m sure there’s more to tell, but this is all I’ve thought of so far. Please feel free to ask any questions, and request any additional pictures you'd like to see. Shipping is the buyer’s responsibility. I will cooperate with the shipping carrier in any way I can. Local pickup is ok, and you can drive it home if you want to.