1985 Jaguar XJ

XJ6 VDP Sedan

4.2L Straight 6 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel

Automatic

SAJAY1348FC420180

Gasoline

Hi You’re bidding on a pair of Jaguar XJ6 sedans. Between them, with your effort, you could have a very nice car, and lots of extra parts to sell at a profit. I’d do it myself but I’m long on projects and short on time. These cars come with both a well-used Haynes repair manual (seen on the roof of the black car in several pix), and a new OEM Jaguar Series III Service Manual (I have a pic, but was only allowed 24 so it's not here). Note: Maine does not title cars over 15 years old. These are sold with a bill of sale only. Note: I have more pix of the parts car, but Ebay only allows 24 pix. I have interior and engine bay pix I couldn't include. Please email and I'll send them. The black one is a 1985 XJ6 Vanden Plas. It shows 135,237 miles on it. The speedometer doesn't currently work. When I bought it last year the previous owner said it was working the last time he drove it, leading me to believe it had just failed and the mileage is close. It runs and drives. Last fall it ran well. After winter storage it misses a bit when cold, but it’s getting better the more it’s run. It probably could use fresh gas and a tune-up. Two tires were new last year. The other two have good tread and even wear, but have some weather-cracking and should be replaced. The wheels are Dayton wires. According to an Ebayer who replied to my last listing, they were an option, made for jaguar by the Dayton Tire Company. Most of the VDP models came with this option in 85, 86, and 87 and are worth a least $600 a set of four. The spare is an OEM Jaguar alloy wheel. The brakes work good, even the parking brake. The transmission works fine. The steering rack slips on its mounting bushings, causing play in the steering wheel (a common issue with these cars). It’s an easy fix with a urethane bushing kit (included). The following electrical equipment is non-working. Most of the problems are likely dirty switch contacts or fuses, but have not been diagnosed. Gas gauge Power antenna Left rear window Sunroof Climate control Speedometer The alternator is weak. There may be other minor items (interior lights, etc.) that I haven’t noticed. The speedometer issue is likely the transducer at the transmission. The wires tend to bake from exhaust heat then short/break. A good unbaked used transducer is included. If power is jumped directly to the sunroof motor the motor runs, but the roof doesn’t move. Cause is not known. The sunroof is open a crack, hence the tape visible in the photos sealing the seams. All glass is good. The floorpans, rockers, trunk pan, and front fenders have no rust issues. The rear fenders have holes above the wheelwells. Why there? I have no idea, but this area is solid on the other car, which could donate pre-formed patch panels. The interior is decent, not perfect. It’s not show-quality, but very useable for a driver. The dash and console wood could use refinishing. Better (near-perfect) used door wood is included. The green one ( parts car) is a 1983 showing less than 73,000 miles on the odometer. I know little history. I got it from a couple who inherited it. They said it had electrical issues and wasn’t running when they got it. It sat with grass/weeds growing underneath for several years. The outer body isn’t bad, though the paint is very weathered and mostly gone on the driver’s side doors. The floorpans, fuel lines, and trunk pan have significant rust-through. The linkage from the shifter to the transmission is either unhooked or broken. For a wonder, the brake lines are intact and the brakes work, even the parking brake. The left rear door doesn’t open. The right rear opens from inside but not from outside. Latch/linkage lubrication and manipulation might cure both, but I haven’t tried. When power is applied to the sunroof motor it hums but doesn’t turn. I ran temporary fuel lines from a can of fresh gas to the fuel rack and got the car running. The engine runs smooth and quiet when revved, but idles rough. It got smoother as it ran but I noticed the transmission cooler lines leaking badly and the cooling system appears to be empty, so I shut it down after about a minute. I believe the transmission is ok. The car tried to pull ahead as the engine revved, but was held in place by the parking brake. The power steering works. Its steering rack bushings slip also. The interior of this car is bad. Maybe some carpet pieces would clean up. The seat foam seems ok, but the seats need re-covering. The wood is weathered, but might refinish ok. The windows, sunroof, climate control, and most gauges don’t work. The tachometer works. The speedometer may work, I haven’t moved this car at speed to tell. Later model 4.2L Jaguars can have problems with the tappet guides coming out of the heads. You can research this online. Neither engine appears to have been damaged by this problem. The black car has a light valve tap at idle when cold. It could be the start of the above issue, or it might just need a valve adjustment. A tappet guide hold-down kit is included just in case. You can decide whether or not to install it. Also included are a camshaft locator tool, a cam chain tensioner tool, and a valve cover gasket set, needed for either a valve adjustment or installation of the tappet guide hold-down kit. If you want a car to take home and drive as-is, these aren’t for you. If you have automotive repair skills and want a project these could be for you. The black car is driveable, though not safe on the street with the loose steering rack. It could be a very nice driver with relatively little work. The green car is either a very ambitious restoration project, or a good low-mileage parts car. Please ask any / all questions before bidding. Shipping is the buyer’s responsibility. I will fully cooperate with the shipping carrier to get them loaded. The black car can be driven onto a carrier. The green car might be yard driveable if a temporary fuel supply was attached and the transmission cooler lines were temporarily patched. Local pickup is ok. I will accept full payment by Paypal. Note: This is the 4th time I've listed these. I've eaten listing fees on this 3 times, once because a 0 feedback buyer hit buy-it-now, then cancelled membership without paying. If you have lower than 10 feedback, or any negatives in the past 2 years, contact me before bidding. Otherwise your bid will be cancelled. I hate to be this way, but I can't afford to keep eating listing fees for items that don't sell. These cars are also for sale locally. I reserve the right to end the auction early if they sell locally.