Detail Info for: Porsche : 356 SC 1964 porsche 356 sc italian euro model rare

Transaction Info
Sold On:
12/30/2014
Price:
$ 60000.00
Condition:
Mileage:
72400
Location:
Clearwater, Florida, 33756
Seller Type:
Private Seller
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1964 Porsche 356
Submodel Body Type:
SC Coupe
Engine:
356SC
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
216938
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
This 1964 356SC euro model was purchased on March 10th 1964 in Bologna, Italy. It came to America in 1970. It changed hands a couple times before it was purchased and restored in the mid 90’s by a PCA member in Ohio who is a 356 aficionado from what I can tell. I am the 2nd owner of the car after the restoration, and the 7th known owner overall.Included with the vehicle at the time of sale will be the spare wheel, jack, tool kit and a bra as well as a folder containing pictures, info and receipts from previous owners. I have a stack of notes and maintenance records. There’s almost $20k in receipts over the years, not including the restoration work. I have several pictures that were taken during the 1996 restoration as well as the details of all the work performed which is mentioned below. A detailed ownership history will also be given to the buyer. The "notes" I will keep referring to in the description were put together by the man who restored the car in 1996. He had known about the car since 1992 and bought it in 1995. It was sold in 1996 after and conditional upon the restoration. That buyer sold the car to me in early 2011.I have been a Suncoast PCA member since 2003. There are many 356 experts out there, I am not one of them. I own several cars but I’m not a car expert. Please ask any and all questions in advance. I will respond asap to the best of my knowledge. The car is available for viewing by appointment in Clearwater, FL. An inspection was just performed, the details of which are listed below. If you would like the car inspected again I can suggest a local company who has recently inspected the car or other arrangements within our local area can be made. Viewings and inspections must be done prior to auction close. If you want a picture of something not shown here or in the photobucket link, just ask me. Terms of Sale: Your winning bid is a binding contract. A deposit of $1000 is due within 48 hours of auction end either via wire or via Paypal. Balance needs paid in full via wire transfer or possibly another method within 3 business days of auction close. I will not accept Paypal for the full price of the car unless you are willing to pay all associated Paypal fees, whatever the current rate is based on the buyers location, 3%, 4%,5%, etc. Payment would need to be made in advance via wire transfer. No I won’t fall for any of the usual cashiers check / M.O. scams so don’t ask. The car is sold AS-IS, Where-IS. No warranty is expressed or implied. The title is clear and in hand. I reserve the right to end the auction early as the vehicle may be advertised elsewhere. Shipping: The car must be picked up in Clearwater, Florida USA. I am not in the car shipping business. You will need to make sure your agent / cargo company can come pick the car up and has the proper equipment, tools/straps,etc to secure a car. You should have a company knowledgeable with the car shipping process. You may want to have an independent party (working for the buyer) to take the pre-shipping photographs. In 2005 I used Exotic Car Transport out of Orlando, FL to send another Porsche to Hershey PA and back again. They did a fantastic job for me. I have included below the details of the condition and some details of the cars history, based on the information I have. The car is beautiful overall but I will try and list all the things that a buyer could be critical of and condition mentioned is my opinion only. Consider the condition to be very nice unless specifically noted otherwise. I’m going to be picky, but I may have missed something. I have also had a pre-purchase inspection done. A copy of it and 84 additional pictures can be found at this link:s1070.photobucket.com/user/CLWTUSKEN/library/?sort=3&page=1VIN: 216938Mileage: The car now shows 72,xxx KM. I’ve only added about 3xx miles in the 4 years I’ve owned it. The mileage is not 100% accurate as the odometer was not working for a short time prior to the restoration. The 2nd owner had the car for 22 years, if the odometer rolled over it happened during his ownership.Engine #: 811317 type 616/16 ( left factory with # 811136 per CofA ). If the engine was replaced it was done in Italy for unknown reasons and I’ve been told by people who know about these things that it certainly could have been a warranty swap. Unfortunately that’s a theory at this point and I don’t know if Porsche has ever been contacted to help shed any light on that, if they even could. The engine in the car now is what was in the car when the car came to America in 1970. With the numbers being so close, based on production numbers of 1964 I believe these engines would have been made only about 4 days apart.Engine: The most recent major work was done I believe around 1999. The work order states R&R engine, replacing the crank and 2 pistons. There is no date on the work order however from what the former owner has told me about when that happened it looks like that was in 1999. The shop that did that repair was the "Sports Car Factory" in Ohio. I dont know if they are still around, I have a call into them and left a VM. They do seem to have a very good reputation though from what I've heard and read. I just had a PPI done last week which a copy of can be found at the photobucket link. The great: Everything applicable checks out and works as expected.The not so great: Compression in cylinder # 2 is low. Compression / cylinder leak down #'s were as follows:# 1 ) 150 / 10%# 2 ) 100 / 70%# 3 ) 125 / 10%# 4 ) 160 / 10%I asked them to throw a worst case estimate number on there so buyers would know. That price was $2800. The car can obviously be driven, the compression could get worse or stay the same. Repairing it eventually would be the right thing to do. I am opting to not fix it, as the next buyer may choose to do other things to the car or have a certain shop/mechanic perform the task so there is no sense opening it up more times than it needs to be.Transaxle: # 79007 type 741/2 ( left factory with # 75036 per CofA ). The transaxle case is known to have been replaced in the 70’s in the USA. Case half numbers match (according to info provided).Exterior: Cream / Light Tan. It is not the original color, which was “Slate Gray 6401” according to CofA. Condition: Very nice, better than an average “driver” condition but not concours. There are a few minor bubbles in the paint on the front end, under the hood on one side and under the vent on the other. They are not very noticeable. No rust popping through. There is some minor discoloration showing on the bottom sill under the rear wing windows. It could be minor surface rust or something else, such as a window sealant or something. One side looks more like rust than the other. I’m not sure. It is not visible unless the rear windows are open. There is a small imperfection under the paint in the rain gutter on top of passenger window which isn’t very noticeable. When the car was on a lift recently, I was asked why the pan had an area that was pushed up in the middle. They said it looked like maybe someone tried to jack up the car with a floor jack in the wrong spot. I don’t know the history of this indentation. I took pictures when I bought the car in 2011, the indentation is in my picture and no one ever questioned it or pointed it out to me before. I just spoke with the former owner recently and he said the indentation was there prior to the restoration. He said it would have been too much work to try and pull out. It wasn't hurting anything and since you cant see it, they left it alone.Interior: Medium/Light brown(Fawn), and “Light Brown Leatherette” is correct per CofA. Excellent condition. There is about a 1 inch cut in the head liner at the bottom near the rear window. There is about a ¼ inch cut in the headliner at the bottom of the roof pillar in front of passenger door. These are not very noticeable. There is a strip of adhesive left on the glove compartment door where a Porsche owner plaque was. I removed the plaque with the former owners name on it when he requested it back as he bought another Porsche. You can either remove the adhesive or get a new plaque. There is a small rip approx 4mm under the drivers rear wing window. It isn't ripped though, its not a hole. Regarding the Headliner picture, Those are not stains, they are just reflections & shadows. The headliner is not stained. Mechanical / Driving: The car sits on a battery tender and I start the car every week or so. I usually drive it around for a block or up the store. I take it to several PCA events each year in the Tampa Bay area. It runs and drives good as far as I can tell. Some of the work history is listed below. Electrical: All lights and blinkers work as intended to my knowledge, I recently tested all and all were tested again last week during inspection. Windshield wipers work. Pull the button out, they turn on. I'm not sure if there is supposed to be only 1 speed or if it is variable depending on how far you turn the knob. If there is any difference in speed between the knob all the way to the left and all the way to the right, it isn't much. The Radio. I cannot get the Blaupunkt to work. Push button in, radio turns on, it lights up, also with red light on in middle. The buttons on the front, SW, AM, FM, all seem to work when you push them, meaning it moves the white needle inside to a different pre-determined part of the dial. The knob on the right moves the red needle gradually as expected. The sound coming out of the speakers is sort of a "wub wub wub wub". It's a pretty clear sound though as the speakers were replaced in 1996 along with the radio repair which was done by "Vintage Radio Shop" in PA. I know the FM Tuner section was replaced per the notes I have but not sure what else was repaired. The silver knob behind the left push button will change the sound considerably when turned. It reminds me of a "squelch" sound on a CB radio. Sorry if that's a bad description. I cant get the radio to do anything else. It appears the physical function of the knobs and buttons work, but its not getting a signal. The antenna on the outside appears to be in excellent condition and moves up and down manually perfectly. I'll try and look at it again when I have some free time, maybe the antenna isn't hooked up. Known accident history: There was a dent removed from the right rear bumper and the deco replaceed at some point during the 70’s or 80’s. The notes I have state: " the car had no accidents during this period except for a small incident in the right rear requiring removing a dent from the bumper and replacement of the bumper deco." The period it was referring to was 1970-1992. The notes also state "Little is known about the car from 1964-1970 other than the car was painted Aubergreen (an early 911 color) sometime during that period."Trunk/Boot: I very recently learned that the 2 additional support brackets for the trunk lid are something that is done to reinforce the lid, usually after something has happened. I was told that reinforcement pieces would nowadays be placed/hidden in the channels that run under the trunk lid so this was probably an old repair. This is what I was told by a fellow long time PCA member and 356 owner. When looking at the bottom of the trunk lid when open, you can see a crease on either side in the same area. Nothing is visible on the outside of the car. I recently spoke with the former owner regarding this, and he did confirm the trunk/boot situation was as expected, someone tried to force the hood closed and bent it some. It was not the result of a collision. It was like that when he got it, however he said there is some kind of mechanism in there now that won’t allow that to happen again.Body: The car has the original doors, deck lid, bumpers, and hood. The former owner recently told me the car WAS a bare metal repaint, completely stripped. They did replace the longitudinals when they restored it. He said they werent in terrible condition, maybe marginal, but they stripped the car to bare metal so they did them then. He said the whole body was very straight and in good condition so really not much work was needed on it. The car was Champagne Yellow when it was restored. The gaps are all good and the doors shut very solid. Books / Records:Porsche CofA dated 7/17/95Volkswagen / Porsche Service network brochure dated Sep. 1963 ( Rete di Servizio Assistenza )Italian Registration / receipt form ( Ufficio Del Registro / Gravina in Puglie )Italian Work orders / receipts ( x 5 ) dated July 1964 ( Oil change, spark plugs etc. )356C driver’s manual ( possibly original in very nice condition ) with pouchPorsche Owner’s Club trouble shooting guide ( reprint 1994 from 356 Registry ) Restoration / Some Work History * this information is based on receipts and notes from past owners:December 2014 – Oil, filters, spark plugs, clean carbs, check valve clearance.October 2011 - rebuild steering box, carbs and fuel pump.March 2011 – Horn Ring fix, Clean carbs, accelerator pump nozzles, Oil & Lube, check upJanuary 2010 – Clean JetsOctober 2008 – New Battery, Oil, Clean & Re-line fuel tank, clean fuel filter & carbs, flush brakes, check adjust valves & cover gaskets, spark plugs, install pointless IGN system, clean dist cap & rotor, install electric fuel pump & switchApril 2001 – Rear grilles were disassembled and polishedSometime after 1996 – Engine R&R, disassemble, clean, inspect, crank, pistons & bearings. No date on work order.March through May 1996 – Restoration as follows: 1) Remove old undercoat and recover with Wurth undercoating. 2) Replace shocks with Koni adjustables. 3) Replace sway bar and spring plate bushings. 4) Replace all glass/door seals and profiles. 5) Clean/Paint/Detail engine with proper colors and decals. 6) Remove all extra non-standard wiring and restore to original config. 7) Replace non-standard windshield washer with OEM system. 8) Replace aftermarket ignition switch with OEM switch. 9) Re-chrome hood handle and turn signal units ( front ) 10) Repair odometer and clock 11) Remove bicycle carrier bracket 12) Replace shifter bushings 13) Replace Weber Carbs with the original Solex carbs and manifolds. 14) Repair and replace heater cable system at the engine 15) Remove radio antenna and block hole 16) Relocate rear reflectors to proper under the bumper location 17) Strip car of all hardware, seals, strips, and glass for painting 18) Repair any rust if located 19) Paint the car 20 ) Replace carpet with proper German Square Weave Wool ( Oatmeal ) 21) REASSEMBLE 22) add 5.5 x 15 Chrome Wheels.December 1995 – Koni shocks installedFebruary & May 1995 – Transaxle rebuilt , new generator installedDecember 1994 – R & R StarterJune 1994 – retractable seat belts installedApril 1994 – R & R Fuse BlockMarch 1994 – new link & king pinsFeb & April 1993 – New seat belts and interior is installed, Light Brown color per CofA1992 – Engine rebuild, details unknown Tool kit – all believed to be original, Not a reproduction unless noted:Original pouchMessko air guage ( this is the metal one from a 356B kit, not the plastic one from a 356C kit )3 fuses in burgundy pouch, the pouch appears too nice so it’s probably a repro.2 Klein Screwdrivers, redish / orange handles, made in Germany, flat head & Philips19MM Lug wrench with angled tip plus spare lug nutKlein 21 spark plug wrench w/ Tommy barPliers made by Hapewe West Germany – these do not have the raised cutting edge and may be reproductionsFan belt wrench & Spare Belt5 Open ended wrenches 8/9mm 10/11mm 12/13mm 14/15mm 17/19mm Other items included:Spare Wheel & Tire, Jack, Euro Bi-Color ( RED / ORANGE ) Taillight lenses, Car Cover, Bra, 6V Battery Tender