1987 Mercedes-Benz 300-Series

300SDL Sedan

6-cyl. 2998cc/143hp Turbodiesel Fuel Injection

Automatic

WDBCB25D4HA302118

Clear

Diesel

Hello, how are you today? This is a used Mercedes 1987 300sdl 6cyl diesel, runs well, new tires, new windshield - $900.00 6cyl turbo diesel automatic It has 300K and runs great $900.00 or plus trade for a 1997 Honda Accord in running condition and/or needs minor repairs. If you want to run CarFax on it, the VIN is WDBCB25D4HA302118 . It had new tires when I got it. I put about 60 miles on the tires. When I drove it I noticed was that the break pedal vibrated just before you come to a complete stop. Research indicates this could be due to either: the ABS system going bad or air in the ABS system. Also noticed as I drove it, the fasten seat belt light (no alarm) would flash every 10 min or so. I am guessing one of the seat switches is stuck on or the wire to the seat belt is open. Tested the sun roof, it works perfect. Thought it might be leaking, had it covered with a tarp. Recently read in the repair manual that there is a drain system for the sun roof. Have not checked to see if drain system is clear. Comes with about 7 gal of diesel I put in the tank about 4 months ago. Thats like $28.00 ! Work I did to it: I bought the repair manual on two CD's. (You get them with the car) It has proven to be very helpful. I replaced the rear disk break pads. Have new break pads for the front wheels. Did not replace them because the ones on it are thicker than the new ones I bought. Adjusted the emergency breaks so the will keep the car from moving when it is in gear. It had an unadvertised broken windshield. I replaced it with a new one, a $300.00 value. I replaced the rear right door check strap. Replaced all 4 windshield wipers, one month ago. The head lights have wipers. Worked on the automatic antenna. Found the switch on the dashboard must have gotten stuck on. The circuit board in the antenna motor area was burned up. As well as the plastic flex stick that pushes and pulls on the mast is broken. Have replaced the antenna switch. Have not gotten a replacement antenna. Still have the old one removed. A piece of packing tape keeps rain out of the antenna hole. Checked and replaced lights in the rear. All lights in the rear work, including 3rd break light. I put led lights in the rear for the running lights, they look funny. I have a box of spare lights if you want to put them back to incandescent lights. Head lights and high beams work. I removed the heat blanket from the engine hood as it was falling into the belt. I chose this car in hopes of converting it into a veggie car. I bought a Frybrid WVO system to install in it. I only have the switches, gauges, and lights installed. If you want the car with the Frybrid, for you to finish installing, add $1,600.00 to the cost of the car. If not, I will be removing the switches, gauges, and lights which will leave hols in the consoles. I do have another set of consoles that were originally in the car, without holes, though the clear coat on them is very cracked. If you do want the Frybrid, I have also made a heater / centrifuge system to clean the WVO I can sell, if you need it. Replaced courtesy light fixture on driver side door. Parts I bought and have not installed: air filter MANN C 29 200 Air Filter,ebay auction number 331115237394, $20.26 oil filter and 9 qts of oil, $80.00 9 ea fuel filters (the small ones)[BOSCH 74001 Fuel Filter, ebay auction number 321305936215, $4.10] also bought the other fuel filter (?Primary?)[BOSCH 74011 Fuel Filter ebay auction number 291095944983, $16.54] 9 feet of VACUUM HOSE 1/8" BLUE SILICONE HOSE HI-PERFORMANCE. A value of $10.00 . I have replaced 3 pieces of vacuum hose that was deteriorated. Light bulbs for turn signals, running lights, and dashboard lights. Now the problems I am aware of: After I filled the wiper fluid reservoir, when I checked it about 4 days later, it has leaked out about 4/5ths of it, enough was left in it that I could squirt the windows. Dont know if it is a cracked reservoir or leaking lines. Washer fluid low indicator is stuck on. Did it even when it was full. Took a peek inside resistor, looks to be the float is stuck at the bottom. I found the rubber hose on the return line to the fuel tank has a slow leak. I bought a replacement hose, have not put it on yet, a $17.00 value. I found an oil leak under the engine. The symptoms match it to be from the Diesel Injection Pump bottom seal. I bought 3 replacement gaskets, have not put it on yet. (ebay had a -lot of 3- for sale) A $14.00 value. Very good instructions I found for replacing the gasket is as follows: ------------------------------------ W126 Diesel Injection Pump bottom seal replacement I just completed this task on a 1987 300SDL and YES, it can be done without removing the IP (injection pump) from the vehicle. If I must stress ONE point, it is PATIENCE! You DO NOT want to trash the Torx (T-30) heads of the six (6) screws (M6-1.0 pitch) x 12mm length holding the bottom cover in place. My tools of choice were a 1/4" socket driver, an assortment of 1/4" diver extensions, a T-30 Torx driver bit, a flexible 1/4" driver extension and a (Sears Craftsman) 1/4" x 1/4" flexible socket. The T-30 Torx bit inserted into the 1/4" flex socket just barely yielded enough room to get a sufficient purchase (bite) on the Torx head screws to loosen them. As one member suggested in this thread, cutting down (shortening) the Torx driver bit will increase your ability to get a good grip on the screw heads. Since driver bits are usually made of hardened tool steel, it is usually necessary to grind the bit down with a grinder. I found it helpful to remove the clamping bracket which supports the two hard lines to and from the oil cooler. This gives you a bit more room to maneuver in. Make sure the Torx head recesses are clean and free of dirt so the driver bit will seat to the bottom of the recess. I used spray brake cleaner with an extension nozzle, a tooth brush and q-tips to get them squeaky clean! Take your time! Take your time! Take your time! Be sure to have a GOOD grip on the screw head before you attempt to loosen it. BTW, this is not a real messy job if you do it after an oil change and before restarting the vehicle. The amount of remaining oil in the injection pump is not that much. Once you have all 6 (six) screws loosened, it is not difficult to remove them. Clean the bottom of the injection pump thoroughly and the sheet metal cover as well. You are now ready to install the cover with a new seal ring (A 004 997 46 40). Usually, one wets (lubricates) the new seal ring with a bit of fluid (oil). However, doing so in this case will cause the new seal (i.e. big square cross-section o-ring) to slip off the cover or twist before you can snug the cover in place. I opted to fit the new seal dry, though I did consider a few drops of super glue to hold it in place on the cover plate. If you are suspect about the condition of the screws you removed I would NOT waste time to visit the dealer in an attempt to get new ones. Rather, find a local fuel injection pump re-builder, one that handles Bosch injection pumps; he will have them and should only set you back about $8. Other alternatives are to use socket head hex screws (M6 x 1.0 x 12mm - 5mm allen wrench) or even better, flange screws/bolts (same M6 x 1.0 x 12mm - 10mm flexible socket driver). Just be certain the screws of your choice are at least grade 8.8 (minimum). I purchased new Torx head screws but opted to use flange bolts because of the larger bearing area of the flange head. I purchased a Sears Craftsman 1/4" drive x 10mm flexible socket driver for this purpose. There is enough room under and around the injection pump so that you should be able to fit the cover and hold it in place while you install two (2) screws by hand to hold it in place. Then it's under the car to install the remaining screws and snug them down EVENLY. Put a rag under the injection pump (just in case), fire the beast up and check for leaks. Hopefully, you are good to go for another 23 years. ---------------------------------- The rear right door power window does not work. I troubleshot it and found that the white/blue wire going from the front console switch to the door switch has an open. It is run under the carpet, seats, and into the roof beam between the doors. I was going to run a new wire the best I could, probably not under a lot of stuff, just to get the window to work. The front right power window makes a motor running noise but window does not move. Research indicates it it most likely a plastic piece that is suppose to run in a track has broken. AS seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWqjtAYFMTw Radio is missing and radio plugs have been cut off. Enough wire remains to connect an after market radio. The repair manual on CD does a great job identifying the wires. Speedometer does not work. Research indicates it is most likely a plastic gear slipping on a metal shaft. Instructions to fix it can be found here: http://dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm If it turns out to be a broken plastic gear, I pulled one from a junk yard, may not be the right gear. When I replaced the rear break pads, I bled the breaks. Then found out I was suppose to use DOT4 instead of DOT3. I was told DOT3 was corrosive to a DOT4 system so I drained out all the fluid and put in DOT4. Then I found out draining out all the fluid puts air into the ABS system and has to be bleed via a pressure bleeder. So I built a pressure bleeder, it leaked some between the cap and reservoir. I got most of the air out, the breaks were tight. 5 min later the break pedal went to the floor again. Then I found out that the only difference from DOT3 to 4 is its boiling temp. I could have flushed it out with out putting air into the ABS system. Dont know if break pedal is going to floor because of air or bad master cylinder. Research says to replace the cheaper easier o-ring on the master cylinder before replacing the actual master cylinder. The front running lights and turn signals do not work. Have not checked to see if it is just light bulbs. Belive it is as they are hard to get to and would be something easily negelted. The clear coat is flaking off the engine hood. Clear coat has worn off the roof above the windshield. About a 2 inch diameter rust bubble on the fenders behind both back tires. Amount of wear to be expected for a 27 year old car, may be less. The driver seat on the lower back has a 7 inch by 4 inch hole that has worn through from getting in and out. Please contact me with any question