1990 Ford Thunderbird

Minty $$$ Mods, DO NOT LET THIS ONE GET AWAY! NR! Coupe

3.8L 232Cu. In. V6 GAS OHV Supercharged

Automatic

1fapp64r0lh160719

Clear

GAS

Sorry for the delay!! Busy Busy!! Here's a car I could not WAIT to get my hands on to bring to you!! As you know, these cars weren't on the most reliable Ford list. Ususally beat into the ground by now or just plain falling apart. NOT THIS ONE!! This car was somebody's baby. Recently traded in with $100s if not $1000s in mods and parts replacement, not to mention all around a beautiful car. The exterior is amazing. Even better when you consider it's age and miles. I searched high and low and I can't even find a solid doording on this car!! Easily a 9+ out of 10 exterior. ZERO rust. ZERO signs of any major damages or repairs. The front bumper cover has been repainted nicely so it barely has a rockchip or bugmark. Rear cover is excellent save for a couple small spots of clearcoat flake. THIS IS THE CAR YOU'VE BEEN WAITING FOR!!! Below you can see a neat rubber strip has been added for a lower look. I like it but it's not the best quality. Note the nice driving lights, these are aftermarket ones that also have a 5 color LED accent lighting range installed on a different switch. Notice also the nearly perfect non-discolored headlight lenses and signals. UNSEEN under the front of the car is the BRAND NEW RACK AND PINION along with some other replacement parts. The car drives like brand new (I know because I drove one when my stepdad bought one new in 89 when they came out). Doesn't rattle, shake, pull, wander, vibrate, etc. Brakes will throw you thru the dashboard if needed. Even the "AUTO/FIRM" ride control works properly. Above you can see the factory wheels have been Matte Black powdercoated. Centercaps too. Note the high end Goodyear Eagles that look very recent. All have 80+% treadlife and ride on straight vibration free rims with no damages. Seriously, this car is nearly ready for any carshow. Paint shines everywhere beautifully. Awesome. You can see the black accents look great without being overdone. Nice and professional, not some driveway job or stickers. Below you can see the half dollar sized clear flake. I'm sure it can be touched up if desired. The interior is gorgeous as well but of course has seen better days. I actually expected it to be worse than it is considering the design. As you know the bolsters are like a racing set so the driver and passengers will ALWAYS rub it going in and out. It's worn with a couple small tears mostly in the base of the seat. No major damages tho and still looks great! Yes the auto seatbelts still work properly. As you know, most small engine Fords oil pressure start to go south during idle. This car is strong. ALL the dummy lights illuminate upon startup with NONE staying on during run. I believe the car has a lower thermostat as it heats up but stays on the low side. I can also hear the electric fan working properly. EVERYTHING power on the interior seems to work as it should: power windos, locks, mirrors, auto climate control, gauges, power seats, etc. The only minor complaints I can find, the driver's seat back is fixed in it's position. I think this runs off a cable and will need adjusting. The airconditioning compressor is installed and looks fairly new, but is unplugged so it's not currently working. Seems after the engine mods, it was left alone. Plug it in and recharge possibly? The rearview mirror is not attached but is in the trunk of the car. Unseen is also a small rockchip in the passenger side of the windshield....and.... ....above you can see the Pioneer Premier CD player is installed. I didn't have the faceplate or remote but it was recently mailed to us so I DO HAVE the faceplate and remote to go with the car. I have not tested it for function as of this typing. The car also seems to be pre-wired for the typical amp/subs. Finally below, you can see the SOLE center dash crack. It's damn near in the center of the car, too! ALmost looks like it came this way. Above and below you can see nearly ALL of the factory original parts are included. What's in the new boxes, you say?? Why those are ALL NEW PARTS!! Knock, temp, misc Sensors. Boost solenoids. Ball joint. Old Coil pack. And other stuff I can't remember at the moment. HAS to be nearly $1000 in new and used parts here alone. Note the rearview mirror. Also note the factory rear supercharger intake manifold. Why is this here? My professional knowledge would presume that the manifold on the car is either an upgraded ported version is installed and/or the newer 93 version is installed for more boost/airflow. HERE'S THE WINNING LOTTERY TICKET!! Mods mods mods. I cannot vouch if the engine has been removed ore rebuilt or left alone. But as clean as it is, with new gaskets and paint, etc, I'd have to say it was. I do NOT know if any internal mods are present. All I can tell you is what I can see. Anything more is purely bonus. Seems at a minimum the entire upper intake and supercharger has been removed. The is a BILLET Supercoupe.com 5lb overdrive upper pulley installed. Hard to see is the LOWER BILLET crank pulley/balancer installed as well. As you gaze some more, you will see new gaskets as far as the eye can see. New BILLET 70mm Throttle Body. Chrome cold air intake with high flow mass air meter. New belts. SUPER CLEAN engine compartement, clean enough to eat off of. Underneath, I see even more cleanliness altho a light light oil sweat on the bottle of the oil pan. Minimum the drain plug. Which brings me to this, it may also be from too much boost. Why do I say this?? Because the car feels like a stocker. What is the ONE THING that should be performed on ANY boosted engine to make power??? Answer: open up the exhaust. This car has nearly 100% BONE STOCK crappy factory exhaust with the exception of high flow cats. STOCK manifolds. STOCK resonator. STOCK tiny pipes. STOCK twin restrictive FORD mufflers. This car is so plugged up that all these mods are wasted....UNTIL....you buy the car and get the exhaust opened up!! If the boost cant get out the tailpipe it will start to push out the engine, namely gaskets. Seeing as all this work seems recent, doing the exhaust properly should not only net BIG power gains, but keep the engine sealed properly and also keep it reliable. With a box of boost control solenoids, someone was chasing why the car only makes about 6 psi right now. Basically they built the car backwards. Strong battery fires the engine right up. Engine is smooth and quiet, lacks boost and drives like a stocker. No noises or overheating. Transmission shifts as it should. It seems to have a shift kit in it but the 1st to 2nd gear shift is typically fast, unless done manually. Drives justlikenew2u!! Someone cared for this car and it shows. They just didn't make the right decisions on the build. THEIR LOSS, YOUR GAIN!! The car is complete and then some. You can drive the car anywhere but if you demand performance, you WILL HAVE TO ADDRESS the exhaust and it's lack of flow. The exhaust was made to pacify the elder buyers, NOT the performance of the engine. I don't know if there are any computer mods or anything. I've only had the car for a couple weeks and put on about 100 miles to ensure it's reliability. Inspect my excellent feedbacks. BID, BUY, and DRIVE ANYWHERE with 100% CONFIDENCE!! This car is NO RESERVE!! One set of keys and title in hand. DO NOT MISS YOUR NEW TOY AGAIN!! I apologize in advance if I sound like I'm scolding....but this NEEDS to be said. This vehicle is AS-IS/AS-SHOWN. The vehicle is in Illinois being sold by a dealer. There are many great affordable aftermarket warranty companies out there that will warranty nearly anything. Use them. WE CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE for your individual state's INSPECTION or EMISSIONS compliance. I am simply trying to offer you and possibly your family a quality reliable vehicle. Like most Americans, I still can't afford a new car. I regularly sell $3000-$6000 vehicles. Mostly what I would personally drive or own. I don't know if you are buying in my state or in Virginia or California...so I HAVE to make our cars ready for the road trip. I don't know who will be driving the car. So I MUST make it ready for your teen or your job in the morning. I can only promise I do the BEST that I can with what I have and what I sell. My EXCELLENT FEEDBACKS prove it. I'm not here to rip people off. I'm also here to help so feel free to contact me after purchase for anything. Even if you have any questions about a future purchase. Also, understand that I spend many countless hours (inspecting, repairing, cleaning, taking pics and writing specific personal ads) for everything I sell...not to mention the $125 sell fee that is charged to me at the end. Please don't jack around if you don't plan to go thru with the purchase. Thanks for your understanding. Now you're at the bottom. Hopefully I've covered the main specifics of the vehicle and eased your mind with the thought of buying off the internet. I understand that you are putting yourself or your loved ones in this vehicle. If I haven't covered any of your questions or concerns, please feel free to email or call me at 815.744.7223. My name is Eric. Nearly ALL my car auctions are NO RESERVE. Absolute sales every time. There is no benefit for me to end auctions early. I do NOT "show" my cars while they are listed and only the winner of the auction gains access to vehicle. I simply don't have time for people's schedules, giving directions, waiting around, tire kicking and lowball offers. BID TO BUY, if you don't, another surely will! Venue of sale is Kendall County, Illinois. ALL BUYERS are responsible for $99 DOC fee. ALL ILLINOIS BUYERS responsible for 6.25% sales tax, $101 License Plate fee (or $25 current valid plate transfer fee), $95 Title fee. ALL COOK COUNTY (Chicago area) BUYERS responsible for 8.25% sales tax. There are 8 other states that I (unfortunately) have to collect tax (AZ,CA,FL,HI,IN,MA,MI,SC)....but it's usually at a discount vs. regular in state. Vehicle is sold AS-IS/AS-SHOWN with no warranty expressed or implied. Please follow deposit and payment instructions posted. I have a $500 deposit within 24 hours posted because if you are bidding, you should be in the position to pay. Variations can be made on a case by case basis but Cash in person is preferred payment. After full payment is made, you will receive vehicle (as shown/stated in this ad), title, associated paperwork and key(s). If you need to fly into the state, please use O'hare (ORD) or Midway (MDW) then utilize the super cheap transit system into Chicago to the train stations (Union or LaSalle St). Then ride a commuter METRA train from Chicago into Joliet's Union Station. These trains run about every 1.5 hours thru the day. Total travel cost is about $10 and a couple hours time. HUGELY less than my cost of time, fuel and tolls to come get you. You can find the schedule info online Metrarail.com. If flying isn't your thing, and you have more time than money, try Amtrak.com and get yourself into Joliet, IL Union Station. I will pick you up for free in Joliet!