Detail Info for: Chevrolet : Cheyenne Super 1972 Chevy Super Cheyenne 4x4, with modern upgrades but original style

Transaction Info

Sold On:
06/04/2013
Price:
$ 13750.00
Condition:
Mileage:
72200
Location:
Plano, Texas, 75024
Seller Type:
Private Seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1972 Chevrolet Cheyenne
Submodel Body Type:
Pickup Truck
Engine:
355 Cu. Tuned Port Fuel Injection from 1989 Chevy
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
CCE142Z176938
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

I am selling my 1972 Chevrolet K10 Cheyenne Super 4X4 Major Price drop, LOW RESERVE, I just had back surgery and need this sold. Buyer must pay for shipping and arrange for pick up. Truck must be pick up before June 12th or after June 23rd, I will not be available between those dates. I believe I am the 4th owner of this truck. I just had the complete exterior repainted in January 2013 and had the trim package polished to aluminum and removed the wood grain that always peals. This truck had a frame off restoration in approx 2002 and has many upgrades that makes it a great daily truck or complete it for showing. Engine is a 355 Cu. Tuned Port Fuel Injection from 1989 Chevy Iroc / Corvette. 4 main bolts, 1.94/1.60 heads, painless wiring, Arizona S 7 M Prom, Hard line fuel system and in tank fuel pump (replaced in 2012) Factory AC, works, but fan switch needs adjustment for speed control Tilt Wheel 12 Bolt 3.08 Gears Limited Slip N.P. Transfer Case Turbo 350 trans GM Ralley Wheels BF Goodrich All Terrain TA's Late Model rear bumper gives custom sport look. Drawtite receiver hitch ( hitch is covered by rear bumper ) 36 Gallon Suburban fuel tank, rear mounted Custom side fuel door New spary in rino liner Urethane Front Spring bushings Senatrak Shocks 97 Chevy 60/40 spit bench seat, flip down console, power lumbar 94 Chevy Leather wrapped steering wheel 97 Suburban 3rd Brake Light 2 1/4 Flowmaster Exhaust 4 core radiator Rear Slider Tinted Millage shows72,XXX, but I do not know if that is on current engine or on body. It has a few leaks from oil and trany gaskets from sitting unused for 5 years until I purchased it. They had dried out a bit but they do not leak so much that I have replaced them. Otherwise it is in perfect running order and was my daily driver. I am selling it AS IS. I am only selling it as I have a bad back and need something with a smoother ride. The information listed above was supplied to me by the guy who did the 2002 restoration. I also have alot of info on wire harness etc.. which will go to the buyer of the truck. I am a firm believer in over disclosure. So if you are really interested in the truck, please read on and I will try and tell you everything I know about the truck, good and bad. Don't get me wrong when you read the following, she is a great truck and I would not sell her if it was not for my back, I just want to make sure you know as much as possible about the truck. The following is an email I sent to a potential buyer here in Texas and it has a lot of detail to it. I put a lot of info in the add that was supplied to me by the guy who built the truck, but I will put it in my own words and let you know things I have discovered. If I miss anything just email me back and I will try and answer your questions. The truck was a frame off restoration in about 2002 and the truck came with a lot of paperwork, wiring diagrams etc.. which would stay with the truck. I did learn just a few weeks ago from a guy who has 3 of these trucks, that it appears at the time of restoration, they put a 2x2 body on a 4x4 frame. This is what the serial numbers show at least. They guy who brought it to my attention said it was most likely due to the fact that the 4x4 body had an extra large hump for the tranny in the cab and it may have interfered with the new seat. I am only guessing on this, but if you did want a matching number truck, this would not be the case with this truck. No one ever noticed including myself except for this guy who had a body shop and owns these truck but he did tell me it actually makes the cab space more usable. When the truck was redone, all of the items in the list above were done. I was told it won some shows after it was completed. To me the major improvement done to the truck was the relocation of the gas tank from behind the drivers seat to back by the rear bumper. These trucks as you know were the Ford Pintos of trucks and blew up if hit on the side. They put in a suburban tank and you can't even tell where the old tank was. I do have pictures of this work being done and they will go to the buyer. Of course this is when they also put in the TPI engine and the other items listed in the add. As for the choice of the TPI motor, I really don't know their reasoning behind it. I have been happy with it, it takes a minute to warm up, but she purrs once she is warm. The speed seems to top out at about 75 MPH due to the gearing I would assume. She really gets up and goes off the line. I purchased the truck from a friend who had about 20 classic cars. What I was told is he had purchased the truck from a buddy of his who had done the restoration. He is a contractor and always loved the trucks and bought it sight unseen. He was told the truck was yellow and that was the color he wanted. He had assumed it was the golden rod original color, not the bright yellow. Anyway, when he saw the bright yellow he did not like it and parked it and let it sit. This was out in Santa Barbara CA. So he purchased it in about 2005 and it sat in his storage yard until I was visiting him in 2011 and saw the truck just sitting and looking abandoned. Anyway, he did not want it so I bought it from him and shipped it out to Texas from CA. I had to flush everything and put in a new fuel pump to get it going and onto the moving truck. I did some other things like new wiring to the rear lights that were not working, acid washed the radiator, fixed door locks etc... All in all it was a very solid truck and still is. When I got it to Texas and cleaned it up I found that it had some rust starting in some strange places on the body. He had it parked up against a fence and a vine had grown over part of the truck. This caused small rust spots along the edge of the hood. It also had some rust at the rocker panels and above the drives door in the drip edge, but nothing had rusted through at all. Also all of the wood grain vinal on the trip was pealing. Once I got the truck to Texas I realized I could not leave the rust unattended or it would ruin the truck. So I had the exterior of the truck repainted and all the rust removed. I also had them polish off all of fake wood on the aluminum trim and leave it at a high buff so there would be nothing to peal in the future. I had them silicone the trim in place and fill all the holes under the trim so water would not leak back into the side panels and rust again. This is my daily driver so I wanted to make it durable in the weather. The truck bed had a yellow tented bed rino liner but it had faded to a different color yellow. I had this painted out to a flat black just for looks. The black will scratch off if you load stuff into it, but the rino liner is still in perfect shape and you can respray with black truck bed paint from Home Depot if you get a scratch. The painter I used was referred to me by my mechanic. He did a really good job on the paint, but there are a few spots where he did not mask well and he hit the rubber trim in a few spots which makes it look like a cheaper job. There are a few spots where the paint clear coat can be seen to have run a little. He painted it when his shop heater was not working this past December and it was cold to set the paint. They don't show up well in pictures but most noticeable is on the right rear fender and is about 1.5 inches long. It does not affect the integrity of the paint at all. There is also a rub mark on the left rear fender which may have come from a shopping cart or something. You can hardly notice it but I want to point out everything I can. All in all the truck body is solid and ready for Texas weather which is what I wanted for my daily driver. I was redoing it to keep for the long run, only to find out just how bad my back was. I also just sold off my sea doos (no more toys for me except my 66 Mustang) The following is just a list of observations I have on the truck and the items it still needs. Inside the passenger door toward the front of the cab, there is a small amount of rust that was missed by the painter. One Window washer tubes need to be hooked back up, the painter took them off an did not put hoses back on. All the rubber around the windows and doors is good. The window area is starting to dry a little but no cracking. The rubber molding inside the drivers door has a cut where it was glued back together by the painter. It does not effect anything, just something I noticed. The speedometer just started sticking when it reaches 35MPH, it sill works from 0 to 35 MPH. This happened when I got it back from the painter so I have no idea what caused this, but I would think it would be easiest to just put in a new one. It shows aprox 70000 on the odometer but I have no idea if that is the motor or the truck as it is exempt and was on any of the old paperwork. Since it is a 2x2 body, you do save money on insurance since it does not show up as a 4x4 I have never personally engaged the 4 wheel drive, but the guy I bought it from had used it on his ranch for fun a few times and said it was a mule. The front differential has a slow leak at the seal. My mechanic said it was from just sitting for so long and things drying out. He checked and all the fluids were full so I was not concerned. It needs to go to a tranny shop to have the seal changed due to the weight of the differential. The biggest issue it has right now is that the upper and lower gaskets are leaking oil. It was leaking when I got it but after the painter had the truck I think he hot rodded it and they really started to leak, but not enough to stop driving the truck, just to make a mess of your driveway. My mechanic said it is just the gaskets which are about $100 plus labor. One muffler pipe had a hole in it and I had that welded and repaired. The radio is dead. There is power to it, but it is dead. The engine was music to me so I did not bother to replace it. It is just a cassette deck am/fm radio. There is no radio antena either, just the nub to screw one on. The leather steering wheel was wearing so I put a cover on it. The front window has two small chips from rocks, they are out of the line of site so it passes safety inspection no problem. The real tail gate latch can stick a little, but nothing out of the ordinary. The HVAC fan. My mechanic looked at it and I just had not gotten back to it. The fan control switch has 4 vertical positions. Currently it only works if left in position second from the bottom. I looked online and it does not seem hard to find a whole new panel if needed, but it could just be a loose wire in the back. That's really all there is to it. She is a great truck and really solid not a lot of cheap after market parts, in fact I cant think of any. All she needs are some finishing touches. She has been a great daily driver for me and defiantly turns heads and gets lots of compliments. I hope I answered all of your questions, but email me if I missed anything and I will try and answer your questions. This truck is being sold as is with no warrenty. I can tell you she is great, but like any clasic, they take work and elbow grease. so please ask any questions before bidding. Thank you, Robert Larson

Featured Items

1978 Chevrolet Cheyenne K20

1978 Chevrolet Cheyenne K20

$98,998.00

  Watches: 4
1978 Chevrolet Cheyenne K20

1978 Chevrolet Cheyenne K20

$98,998.00

  Watches: 19
1996 Chevrolet Cheyenne C1500

1996 Chevrolet Cheyenne C1500

$3,000.00

  Watches: 17