1997 Subaru Impreza

Wagon

2.2L 2212CC H4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated

Automatic

JF1GF485XVH803711

Clear

GAS

***SEE PICTURES UNDER DESCRIPTION*** Reasonable offers welcome I've decided to part with my beloved Subaru. The engine runs like a champ, but the rust on the rear of the frame has progressed to a point where it won't pass inspection. The main problem lies around the back wheels (of course), notably where the rear axle bolts to the frame. The bolts may break loose while driving, I was told by my mechanic, so it is currently unsafe to drive. This may also be causing some movement / flex / alignment issues while driving, which has been causing one of the rear wheels to ride primarily on the inside of the tread (inside being the side closer to the center of the car), as evidenced by the wear pattern. I've done my best to show the current condition of the body through pictures. On the positive side, I recently took the car on a 5,000 mile road trip without a hitch... it was completely reliable the entire way. It has also been reliable since returning, and has never had an issue with starting. Recent work includes new battery, new plugs, new air filter, new MAF sensor, new BPT transducer, new EGR solenoid, upgraded spark plug wiring, 12v line with in-line fuse run through firewall for amplifier, and new gasket for EGR valve. Also, about 20k miles back, a new timing belt and complete front axle was replaced. The EJ22 engine was Japan assembled, and shows no signs of head-gasket issues... most likely it has lots of life left. When returning from a long trip about 5 months ago, I gauged my gas mileage on the highway when averaging between 60 and 65... 10 gallons of gas got me a little over 300 miles, or roughly 30 miles per gallon. I just diagnosed and fixed a check engine light, which ended up being a bad back pressure transducer (which was replaced)... so there are no check engine lights, and the computer reads 'clear' as shown in the picture of my OBDII scanner. Other problems to note are a dent (not a hole) in the gas tank, a hole or air leak in the filler tube, and torque bind when turning the wheel fully to the left or right from a stopped position (as in, for example, when navigating through a parking lot). The heat-shield rattles when initially turning the car on, which goes away after a minute as the engine warms up. Also, the light on the automatic 'shifter' needs to be tapped to come on (the light that illuminates 'Reverse, Neutral, Drive, etc.). I have used exhaust repair kits on some of the seals and on the muffler / CAT housing -- this was done a year ago and seems to be holding up well up to this point. The tires leak slowly, and some have more tread than others. One tire needs to be replaced immediately, for which I have the replacement already (which is included and pictured). Soon two others should be replaced as well. The interior isn't in terrible shape, but not immaculate either. I usually used the back to store things, transport things, and/or sleep on road trips with the seats down. Well, I've tried to describe all known issues adequately here. Since I was told by my mechanic that this won't pass inspection due to the rear frame rust, I am selling this as a parts car. I will not be liable for any issues that the buyer may encounter that were not described here, and will not accept returns... because any issue that was not listed here is outside of my knowledge, the buyer accepts full responsibility for this and the possibility of any unknown issues surfacing after purchase. Having said that, I am a very honest seller, mechanically inclined, know the car well, and have, again, done my best to represent it accurately. This could be a good mechanics' special... for someone who wants a good engine and spare parts, or perhaps knows how to weld and can repair the rusty areas of the frame. Thanks for looking.