1965 Chevrolet C-10

deluxe (short wide bed)

Vortec Fuel Injection

4L60E Overdrive automatic

C1445S151388

Clear

ALLOW TIME to load Video & 70 photos Description can be found below the PHOTOS. My “PHONE NUMBER” is “embedded” in the last PHOTO BELOW. I will help you any way I can in determining if this is the right vehicle for you. A little history From mint original to the ultimate “real world” driver. I purchased this truck 15 years ago (this is my personal vehicle). It belonged to my neighbor here in Keller, Texas. She had inherited it from her Dad. Being a Texas truck and a garaged truck it had been maintained in close to mint condition. After driving it in its original state for two years, I decided it was the perfect platform for my dream truck. I was not constrained by a budget when I built this truck. Of the many classic vehicles I have owned this one stands out as my all time favorite. It would not be for sale except for my desire to purchase a larger airplane hanger. Below is probably more detail than most people want. However, there is a great deal of difference in a “super well engineered” vintage truck like this one and the vast majority you see for sale. I trust that quality oriented buyers will appreciate the details. The bottom line is, it all adds up and it takes a lot of MONEY, KNOWLEDGE, TALENT and TIME to build a truck this well engineered. My guess is that you could not have this truck duplicated “step by step” by a pro-shop for less than $80,000 to $100,000. You can buy it for substantially less. Build Objective It might help to know that I have previously built show vehicles that won the Muscle Car Nationals, Super Chevy GOLD class, NCRS Top Flights and numerous NSCA titles. I say all that to say, I know how to build a “national level” winning show car, however, building a national level “show truck” was NOT my objective with this build. The objective was to build (for myself) a high quality super reliable cross-country cruiser that could be driven in comfort and on demand just like you would a modern truck. Of course, with a back ground in show car builds, I wanted it to look good. This objective was achieved at a cost of 3 years of my life and untold money. I started in 2000 and finished in 2002. Since then, this truck has been selectively driven over 30k miles with complete confidence and great satisfaction. While it was not finished to compete as a show truck, it does show very well even 10 years after its completion. It is usually one of the nicer vehicles at any show I go to. Built with modern GM components One GREAT thing about this truck is that you can take it to any shop with a “diagnostic machine” and plug it right in just like you would a 2000 Chevrolet pickup. Additionally, you can get almost any part on it from Chevrolet or your local parts store. Everything on it is GM other than the lowering components and gas tank. Modern motor & transmission In 2001, I purchased and installed a “complete mated driveline” from a wrecked, low miles 2000 Chevrolet pickup truck. This included the motor, transmission, exhaust manifolds, and computer. The motor is the NEW design VORTEC 327 (5.3 liter) FUEL INJECTION. This is Chevrolet’s new generation V8 for its truck line. The motor is lightweight with excellent power. Chevrolet has enjoyed incredible reliability from this motor and excellent customer satisfaction. The transmission is the 4L60E“overdrive” which has enjoyed equal reliability and customer satisfaction. Simply put … this is the latest and best driveline technology to come out of Detroit. The motor/tranny/computer were all skillfully grafted into my truck in such a manner as to PRESERVE as much of the original personality of the truck as possible. I wanted to retain the original factory instrument cluster (I prefer original gauges over non-factory gauges … it’s a personal thing). This was accomplished and all original gauges work. Computer / all new Wiring The computer was reprogramed by a local GURU who sets these things up to account for any changes from the original GM platform to the new platform it is being grafted into. He purchased and installed the “conversion wiring harness” from Street Performance specifically designed for this application and the truck was completely re-wired ….. results, PERFECT. Rear End I had the original rear end completely overhauled and changed the GEAR to a 3:42 to insure a good compromise between “off the line” performance and my desire for “low RPM” highway use. This gear in combination with the OVERDRIVE transmission is perfect. It accelerates hard whenever needed and cruises at 70 at around double idle. Best of all, this truck gets 20 MPG . A significant accomplishment in a truck of this vintage. Front Suspension Upgraded: The “entire front suspension” CRADLE was “swapped out” with the suspension cradle from a late model Chevrolet Suburban. This is a “bolt in” upgrade … NO cutting and NO welding on the original factory frame. This is, the best way to modernize the steering, handling and braking of this vintage truck. the GM advantage This all-in-one bolt on update completely changes the truck from an antiquated 1960’s truck to a modern vehicle and its all GM engineering with GM part numbers. This guarantees ease of maintenance and downstream parts availability. What ever you need is at Chevrolet or your local parts house, unlike the “now you see them, now you don’t” aftermarket items. I wanted to have complete confidence in my truck and its serviceability not matter where I was.…. confidence, 100%. Stance & Handling To get that perfect stance I used 2.5 inch dropped spindles and 3 inch rear lowering springs. Also, the use of low profile tires provided additional drop and rake. The lower “center of gravity” combined with the modern GM front suspension and Nitto extremes (tires) make this thing handle more like a car than a vintage truck. The experience “behind the steering wheel” is where you see the remarkable difference between this truck and all the others. Frame Off / bare metal Paint & Body The entire body was dissembled, removed from the frame and stripped to BARE METAL using chemical stripper. This was very time consuming but I wanted it done right. The body had ZERO damage. Minor door dings were body worked by an old school “pick and file” man with 35 years of real bodywork experience. The goal was to make it straight. There is NO bondo on this truck. The truck was painted in pieces and reassembled. I wanted it finished in single stage enamel, crossed with a specific hardener for durability. I did not want a two-stage paint to deal with as I planned to drive this thing for the next 50 years and there was a real possibility of getting deep scratches that could be easily repaired if I went with single stage paint…. I never got any deep scratches, got a couple minor chips here and there over time, again, easily touched up. The $10,000 paint job still looks great for its age and usage, now approximately 13 years old with just over 30,000 miles. While it is exhibiting some evidence of very light usage, it has always been maintained as close to new as possible. The only real noticeable flaws are on the hood next to the cowl where a small area has inexplicably clouded (for lack of a better description) and a small area where moisture was trapped in the paint gun. In spite of these flaws it has had tremendous success at car shows and all ways seem to impress folks everywhere I go. Dash I wanted to stay as true to the trucks original look as possible. The ORIGINAL gauge cluster was retained in the build and I added the optional 1965 truck TACH. The dash was finished in the original “factory” ANTI-GLARE textured paint that was optionally available in 1965. This really makes a difference in these trucks where glare from a shiny dash can be a safety issue. Bright work This is the full deluxe model so there is a lot of bright work on the truck. It even has the rarely seen Stainless Trim on the front and rear glass. All the chrome and stainless was re-plated, polished and or replaced. Naturally this was expensive, but necessary for a show room new look. Bed restoration The entire bed was restored using premium products. I spoke with Bruce Horkey (owner of Horkey’s Wood & Parts) who recommended ASH as the best wood he had, most durable and, of course, most expensive. He also recommended stainless bedrails as opposed to chrome or painted rails. I went with all his recommendations including the marine grade stain and varnish. His recommendations proved to be good. The bed was restored close to 12 years ago and it is still very nice. I have never carelessly hauled anything, so there is no damage to anything in the bed including the sheet metal. Interior When you are talking “real world” use, the choice of seat is critical in these vintage trucks. I went with a late model GM (Suburban) seat. It is computer designed with an ergonomic shape that makes for comfortable LONG TRIPS, of which I have taken many with my wife. Just as important as comfort is SAFETY. This seat has adjustable “headrest” to protect you in the event of a rear-end collision, as well as built in seat belts. I had the bottom seat frame modified to mount like the original stock seat. The seat has a fold down armrest with built in cup holders. I purchased matching material from GM to cover the removable center door panels and sun visors to give a consistent “factory type look”. I had some lower door panels custom made from aluminum stock and covered them with the same matching material to get a more finished “deluxe look” on the doors. The carpet is the BEST quality carpet money can buy. I hired a guy who professionally “mallet fitted” a single carpet so that there are NO seams … it is like a high quality factory “molded” late model install, except that it is better carpet than you would find in most late model cars. It is carpeted behind the seat and up to the rear glass and in the corners for additional insulation. Again, instead of buying the preverbal pre-made cheap carpet that cost about $135 and provides only partial coverage, I spent over $600 for a vastly superior custom-made product. Sound Deadener & Insulation of CAB Dynamat was installed in the entire cab of the truck to ensure a quiet cabin. The Dynamat runs over the entire floor and all the way up under the dash and all the way up to the back rear glass (SEE PHOTO). Additionally, I purchased under hood “silver aluminum” firewall insulation/sound deadener from GM and had it installed on the entire firewall prior to reassembly of the truck. Insulating and soundproofing to this extreme is expensive and time consuming but well worth it. I mention cost, only because so much was done, and done right, that you will never see. I spent over $1000 on insulation alone…. it makes a big difference in these old trucks. This is the quietest, tightest truck of this vintage I have ever experienced. The truck is so tight that there is a negative pressure created when you close the doors … it is best to crack a window when closing the door to relieve the pressure because the thing is so air tight. All the weatherstrip was of course replaced along with NEW vent window rubber and new window fuzzies. The side “vent windows” by their very design cannot be made to be 100% sound proof, but they are really the tightest and quietest you will find. Glass ALL the glass is NEW with a factory like tint that came in AC equipped vehicles. The window mechanisms were removed and everything rebuilt to perform as new. Doing a total restoration of the glass was of course at substantial extra expense, but I was building my truck for LIFE … my life. Cost was not my focus. Air Conditioning & Heat I had a modern cooling and heating system installed that is custom designed specifically for this truck. It heats and cools EXCEPTIONALLY well and uses the factory dash control unit. I live in very hot Texas but I am never hot in this truck. Gas Tank / 460 mile range When you convert to fuel injection you have to change gas tanks. I had the old gas tank removed from the interior cab of the truck and the filler hole in the body wielded up. No more gas smell in the cabin and now more in cabin storage room for my hang up bag on out of town trips. I purchased the “largest gallon capacity” STAINLESS STEEL gas tank on the market that was specifically designed for this truck to mount in the perfect spot between the frame under the bed with no ground clearance issues. It was expensive at $800 but the “23 gallon capacity” and all heavy gauge stainless steel construction was important to me. At the time the 23 gallon capacity was 25% more capacity than anything on the market (may still be?). This truck has an incredible 460 mile “range” which makes a difference when you are on road trips. Gas feed location …. I had a gas filler door cut out from a Chevy van and grafted into the side of the bed at the rear. I wanted a more “factory” look, as opposed to the typical gas door in the bed of the truck, which is the “easy way” to update the switch from cab to rear gas tank. While I am very pleased with “the look” of my install, you are forced to do a “slow fill” to keep the gas from rushing back. This is due to the very gradual drop from the fill location to the tank. The frame is in the way of a more radical drop. This is a small price to pay and I have gotten accustomed to taking longer to fill the tank. Tires & Wheels The 18 inch wheels are by HOT WHEELS and the tires are NITTO “extreme ZR” series (tires are NEW). See photos for tire sizes. I stayed with the original 6 lug bolt pattern on front and rear for two reasons. First and foremost, I wanted to keep the original rear end. Staying with the original rear end eliminated all the hassles of miss-matched rear wheel to front wheel “outer diameter differences” and completely eliminates all the modifications that would have been required to adapt a later style rear end assembly to this vintage truck. The second motivation was to be able to go back and forth between stock 6-lug wheels (& hubcaps) for that “old school” original look and the resto-mod look that I get with the “Hot Wheels”. Stock Wheels I no longer have the stock wheels, however the truck retains its original 6-lug bolt pattern which will allow for alternating back and forth between the “stock look” and the resto-mod look. I love the original 1966 Hubcaps and actually preferred the stock wheel/hubcap look but ultimately got use to the HOTWHEELS. Anti Theft / Kill Switch I had a kill switch installed that cannot be overridden. It will not start with the key, and it will not start by hotwiring it … it will ACT LIKE it is trying to start, but it will not fire. This masks the fact that there is a kill switch and increases the probability that the thief will give up or the battery will simply run down. Steering Column / Steering Wheel I wanted nothing but GM on this truck. I used a late model Chevy truck TILT steering column that has everything built into the column. LED Tail Lights / high lums Headlights The truck is much safer with the addition of very bright LED tail lights …. when you hit the brakes, you are sure to be seen. Also, the headlights have substantially more power than the original bulbs. The brights really light things up. Tow Receiver Again, another example of going the extra mile to engineer a “very clean set up” that is almost undetectable once the ball mount is removed. The system is same “heavy duty” design as the factory unit on my late model ¾ ton truck. It was custom built for this truck and is welded to the frame. Although overbuilt and ready for any task, I never used it. Radio The radio in the truck is only there to plug the hole. I always travel with my iPod for music. Everything Else In addition to all mentioned above, EVERYTHING else on this truck was replaced with NEW…. radiator, driveshaft, brakes, relays, hoses, brake lines, gas lines, transmission lines, horns, body mount biscuits, nuts, bolts, etc. Nothing was left untouched. It is truly a well engineered and super enjoyable tuck. Location / Contact info / about ME It seems as if most sellers on eBay want to make themselves impossible to identify and hard to communicate with – NOT ME I will help you anyway I can in determining if this is the right car for you. My name is Michael Chance & my phone number is can be found in the last PHOTO above. If you would like to learn more about me my web-site is ------> MyRod I am located within 30 minutes of both Dallas, Texas AIRPORTS. I can assist in shipping worldwide. This vehicle, like all vehicles I sell, is owned by me and is in my possession … NOT a consignment car listed for an unidentified third party. I am very particular and buy only the much harder to find high integrity cars. I have restored, shown, judged, appraised and collected classic cars for over 30 years. I am true car guy and I know the difference between quality and a fluffed up old car. my eBay “Seller” feedback Please take time to review my eBay “seller feedback” selling NOTHING but quality Classic Cars like this one. * Michael has the BEST CARS on eBay. Paid $58,500 for my stunning 67 GT 390! * Had an AWESOME car Buying experience! Bought a $49,500 Camaro & LOVE it! * Michael went above and beyond to assist me. Very good communication. Excellent ! (….$18,950 classic truck purchased by this buyer) * Traveled from AUSTRALIA, met seller. Unbelievable setup, quality people, quality vehicles, quality service (….$35,000 classic truck purchased by this buyer) * Paid $65,000 for my GTO convertible, very pleased, GREAT CAR. Thanks Michael ! * Michael sold me this GEM, for $49,950 . It is everything I ever wanted and more. * My expectations were totally blown out of the water on this $42,000 Camaro, EXCELLENT ! * I was Very pleased with car, Great seller to do biz with, paid $41,000 * $65,000 1956 Corvette , Amazing transaction, easiest ever, Michael did everything * Purchased $37,450 Car from Michael and he was the best to work with A+++++++” * Purchased $49,950 Classic Car from Michael and love it! Topnotch experience * “Superb to deal with! Had absolute confidence in buying a $45,000 classic from Michael” * “Great to deal with. Michael has Great Cars, will deal again, AAAA+” * “Purchased a $38,000 classic car from Michael, very pleased, highly recommend * “Michael just delivered my 64 F100, over $20,000 grand purchase, hassle free” * “One of the best I have ever dealt with on Ebay. I would buy from again” (….. $58,100 Trans Am purchased by this buyer) * “Michael is top notch, $21,000 Classic Car is awesome!” * “fast ship As Described” (…. $33,000 Mustang purchased by this buyer) * “What an amazing Impala SS427! U made this a great transaction!! Honest ebayer!” (…. $69,950 Impala purchased by this buyer) * “Michael is a honest seller. Thank you for my $59,950 Bel Air” * Great Seller, Thanks (…. $42,500 Firebird 400 cvt purchased by buyer, his 2nd purchase from me, first was a $50,000 L78 Camaro) * Car arrived as described. Michael was excellent to work with. (….$25,500 Grand Prix purchased by this buyer) * 2nd car I’ve bought from Michael. Very helpful & correct descriptions. (…. $24,000 Mustang purchased by this buyer, his 2nd purchase from me, 1st was $28,000 Mustang) * Easy to deal with. Quick buy now transaction (….. $24,200 Mustang purchased by this buyer) * As described, easy to deal with, good communication, thanks for the FIREBIRD (…. $36,000 Firebird HO cvt purchased by this buyer) Terms & Conditions of this sell & all legal stuff Although my eBay experiences have been very positive, I am aware that much goes on within the eBay community that is not positive and therefore requires direct language. Do NOT make a bid or offer until you read everything below. Any bid or offer is a legal acknowledgement and agreement on your part to be bound by the Terms and Conditions put forth below and additionally specified within eBay itself. Have FUNDS ready PRIOR to bidding or making an offer. Full payment must be received within five (7) business days of the end of auction/sale unless I agree in writing to alternative terms. WIRE TRANSFER IS PREFERRED for US buyers and required for all buyers “outside” the United States. Cashier’s check, direct deposit or cash in person are acceptable but in ALL cases this vehicle and its title will NOT be released until complete payment is received and all funds have irrevocably cleared BOTH Banks. If paying by Bank Cashiers Check, I must receive a copy of any Bank Cashiers Check in ADVANCE along with your “internal bank contact information” for confirmation of your Bank Check by my Bank. Bank Cashiers checks MUST BE classified by my bank as having irrevocably cleared both Banks prior to my release of vehicle and title. Loan checks must be agreed to by me PRIOR to you making a bid or offer. Money Orders are NOT accepted. I am not a dealer, however I have an agency relationship with a Licensed Texas Dealer and all cars will be sold through this Dealer (ebuymotorz). Texas buyers will have to pay Texas sales tax and liscense/registeration fees. Out of state buyers are responsible for taxes in their own states. This is a very nice vehicle. However, there is no such thing as a "PERFECT" vehicle...especially when dealing with vintage vehicles. This is not a new vehicle; it is decades old. Even a restored or partially restored vehicle can and will have flaws and normal wear and tear congruent to its age and/or mileage. This vehicle may have minor dings, scratches (or, other imperfections) and indications of wear and use because it has been used. This vehicle is sold AS IS - NO WARRANTY This vehicle is being sold as is, where is with no warranty, expressed or implied. It is the responsibility of the buyer and/or buyers agent to have thoroughly inspected the vehicle (prior to the end of the eBay listing), and to have satisfied themselves as to the condition and value and to bid or offer based upon that judgment solely. Arranging for an independent third-party inspection is a great way to validate a seller's claims about a vehicle's condition. There are many companies and individuals who offer such a service. These services are listed on the internet and can be found in most collector car magazine publications. Of course your personal inspection and scrutiny are suggested and most welcomed. Any and all inspections must occur PRIOR to the end of this eBay listing. The seller has made a diligent effort to accurately describe any known material defects associated with this vehicle. Additionally, the seller shall and will make every reasonable effort to disclose at the “buyer's request prior to the end of the eBay listing” any additional specific details important to the Buyer. However, any descriptions or representations from the Seller are for identification purposes only and are not to be construed as a warranty of any type. Everything stated in the description is to the best of the seller’s knowledge. The seller shall not be responsible for the correct description, authenticity, genuineness, or defects herein, and makes no warranty in connection therewith. The Seller does not expressly, or implicitly, guarantee the accuracy of the description including authenticity or genuineness of the vehicle and/or its components and assumes no responsibility for any repairs or defects regardless of any oral or written statements about the vehicle. No allowance or set aside will be made on account of any incorrectness, imperfection, defect or damage. Any dispute that may arise will be settled by arbitration in a Fort Worth, Texas or Dallas Texas location. New eBay users with zero to LOW feedback or negative feedback must make contact with me by PHONE - PRIOR to making a bid, or offer to buy. I can and will cancel bids/offers of any bidder that refuse to respond to my communication. My phone number is CLEARLY shown above towards the end of the vehicle description. I am available to answer any and all questions by phone and/or e-mail.