1976 International Harvester Scout

Traveler -

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

F0102FGD27816

Gasoline

MORE PHOTOS: http://www.flickr.com/photos/downrangedoug/ History: The previous owner, Tim S., bought this vehicle in February 2002. He wrote the following: She was in very good shape and very solid with minimal rust areas when I began so I had a good base to work from. The restoration work was begun and completed in Orlando, Florida. I had her shipped to Minnesota in November on a carrier. She has never seen the snow…just in the driveway. The odometer reads 53K, however I have not yet put on the 1500 miles for the initial break-in period on the fresh rebuild. I have put on approx. 500 miles. The body work & paint is outstanding and she runs and sounds as good as she looks. Complete Body Work and Repair by Accurate Body Orlando: All rust areas cut out and metal used (NO Bondo or Filler). Color matched to original color Grenoble Green Clearcoat. Fiberglass Top and Hatch repaired and painted black with texture. The complete Professional Restoration/Modifications were completed in September 2002. Her first show was at the IHC Classic 2003 in West Burlington, Iowa. At the IHC Classic in May of 2003 she took 1st Place for “Street Modified 1976-1980 Travelers” and won “Best Restored Custom.” I purchased this Traveler in Fall 2003. I had spent a year or so looking for a project Jeep CJ when this monster showed itself and I decided to go against the Jeep movement. It is the best mix of a truck and convertible out there. Here are the details... Under The Hood: Original International Engine that has been reworked by A&S Machine Shop Orlando: Ported/Polished/.040 Over, Pistons, Rings, Rod Bearings, Main Bearing, Timing Chain Set, Gaskets, Cam Bearing, Freeze Plug, Oil Pump Kit. New Belts, Hoses, Plugs, Wiring 345 V-8 Gasoline Edelbrock Air Cleaner Intake 4-Barrel Spread Bore Edelbrock 4-BBL 600 CFM (1406) Carburetor Rebuilt Transmission by J&S Orlando: Chrysler TorqueFlite 727 Automatic Transmission Mopar Deep Pan Transmission Oil Reservoir with Steel-Reinforced double-seal gasket (No Leaks) Rebuilt Factory Air Conditioner Compressor/Leaks Repaired/New Fittings, needs charged Heater works Body Worked and Finished with Original Paint Color: Grenoble Green Stan’s Headers RPT (Race Proven Technologies) Fully Rebuildable Engine Mounts Steering Gear Battery with Disconnect Knob Single-Speed Transfer Case Power Steering Suspension/Offroad: Dana 44, Front and Rear, 3:54 Gear Ratio 4” Lift: MAD Triangle Spring Kit Daystar Polyurethane Flanged Spring Bushings with Grease-able bolts Daystar Polyurethane Bump Stops Grease-able Steering Rod and new Tie-Rod Ends with Polyurethane Bushings Rancho Shocks: (2) 5115 (2) 5118 Southwest 4X4 Shackle Kit with Grade 8 Grease-able Bolts and Polyurethane Bushings 1” Body Mount/Lift Bushings Rancho Steering Stabilizer D&C X-Duty Tie Rod and Ends (Grease-able) 16” Pacer and American Racing Chrome Wagon Wheels American Racing Center Caps Goodyear LT 285/75-R16 Wrangler AT/S Tires with Matching Spare Tire/Wheel 2 1/4” Aluminum Wheel Spacers by Wheel Works Lock-O-Matic Manual Locking Front Hubs: Manual: Cleaned and Lubricated Power Brakes: Cleaned and Re-packed Wheel Bearings, New Brake Rotors, and Replaced Drums New Upper & Lower Ball Joints Exterior: Hella Rallye 4000 Eurobeam with City Light Kit (very cool feature that makes the glass lenses lightly illuminated when the fog lights are not in use) and Covers. Custom Fabricated Fog Light Brackets by Marshall Ruby Bestop Bikini Top Flowmaster DUAL Exhaust Bushwhacker Fender Flares Westin Chrome Tube Steps New Windshield After Market Mirrors CoverCraft Technalon Custom-Fit Cover made with BLOCK-IT 400 Series Fabric by Kimberly-Clark. For use when the fiberglass top is removed. Fits perfectly (yes, custom fits over roll-bar and spare tire carrier!) and goes down to the axles/center of tires. The cover did have a dime sized-hole in it when some turd threw a cigarette on it (at least I found out the cover is non-flammable!) and a slight tear about 1 centimeter…One picture with the blue patch is the repair side, the next picture is the outside view, hardly noticeable. This cover stores nicely in one of those sleeping bag stuff sacks (not included). There are few small paint chips missing at the door seams. They were caused by removing the doors one summer. The doors can be taken off by the removal of 5 bolts on each door. I used insulated bullet connections for the speaker wire so you only have to disconnect/reconnect them. Interior: The factory Temperature / Oil Pressure gauge located on the left side of the dash does not work, nor does the fuel. Although pictured, there is NO aftermarket trio of gauges (temp, volts, oil located in front of the gear shift) included in this auction. My wish was to begin replacing the dash gauges with the electronic type mentioned below. I got ahead of myself and sold the 3 mechanical gauges without finishing the transition to the Cyberdyne electronic gauges. Cyberdyne Green LED electronic gauges are included, but not installed: Oil Pressure, Speedometer (with mileage), Voltmeter and Temperature. They have black lenses with Green LED readouts: The sending unit for the electronic oil gauge has already been installed into the manifold and a Speed Sending Unit is included, but not installed, to replace the mechanical sender. So at this point, there is no Temp, Oil or Volt. New Plastic Lenses on the factory dash gauges New Paint on dash (the silver and the black), on floor, and whole bed. Cloth Bucket Seats, Black and Silver from a Mitsubishi Eclipse Fold & Flip Rear Seat with new seat belts, refinished brackets, and hardware. The seat was re-upholstered by Moore’s, a high-quality local shop known for their craftsmanship. I first stripped it down to the frame, sand-blasted it, and painted it. Then I took all of the old foam and old covering to Moore’s along with the new material. They cut new foam and backing for inside the seat. It was covered in the Crye Precision Multi-Cam pattern of camouflage used by today’s military forces. It matches the truck exactly as I was hoping. The seat folds down and flips forward/up to make even more room in the bed New SSII Grille Upper Grille with aftermarket Honeycomb Backing Self-Cancelling Turn Signals APC leather wrapped Steering Wheel with Horn Sony Explod AM/FM/CD with Red Light LED and Detachable Face Sony Explod 4 Speaker System: FRONTS= 6.5” 3-Ways, Balanced Drive Tweeter, Built in 2-Way Passive Crossover, 50 Watts RMS, 200 Peak, Die Cast Aluminum Frame. REARS: 6X9” 3-Ways, rest is the same as FRONTS. Gas Shocks for Lift Gate Window Tinting on all Cap windows Custom Roll Bar New Seat Belts Rhino Liner Custom Cut Rubber Bed Mat Custom Fabricated In-Bed Spare Tire Carrier by Clise Race Cars The one picture shows me lifting the custom cut bed mat. This is to reveal how pulling out the hitch pins allows complete removal of the spare tire and carrier if you would want to throw luggage or other items in the bed. You would only have the four supports that the carrier slides down over sticking up about an inch. This picture also shows that the bed mat is not there to cover up any flaws. The condition of the bed is as good as shown by the fender wells. Almost all Stainless Steel Screws and Washers used throughout. The black knobs on the window cranks do not turn as usual. I pinned them to the crank to tightly and they will not spin unless they become worn or you loosen them up by tweaking the tension. The rubber door seal on the passenger side is removed for now. The lip of the door frame needs adjusted. It is not bent at all, but for some reason, if the rubber seal is in place, it is hard to get the door to shut. The driver’s side door seal is perfect. Personally, I think a thinner seal could be used and that this one is too fat/large. On the roll bar cover, I used black tape to cover up two tiny punctures in the cover (extremely minor, but want full disclosure) and there is a mild surface scrape on the cover that runs between the pieces of tape. I never did get around to spending the money on a replacement glove box. I made one out of cardboard that mimics the shape of a replacement. This is the only cheesy thing I did, although it is functional. Passenger side vent window: the latch is broken, can’t lock it shut, but window stays shut. The Cap: The front edge of the cap could use a quick spray of Satin Black Spray Paint. I never fooled around much with the cap as I was primarily concerned with the “convertible” truck and drove it cap-less all of the time. There were some Velcro patches used to hold the visors up. When it had been restored and painted, the Velcro was not removed. I removed the Velcro leaving those white patches to fix later. On the interior of the cap’s right side, a hole for a gas shock for the lift gate remains. Only the right side has this hole, the left side does not. The new shocks are now hidden under the door. On the left side of the cap, you may see the wiring harness hanging for the interior cap light which detaches for removing the cap. I notice on some of the cap’s pictures, spots occur and they are artifacts from the camera, not spots on the cap. The cap's interior latch cover is included and is black. The screw holes for the cover are oversized and I was going to epoxy them shut and re-drill new, smaller holes instead of using large diameter screws. Miscellaneous Items included: Cab Seal: the long piece of rubber which seals the cap to the cab. It is already in place since you will receive the cap on the truck. Rear Hatch Seal: There are two of these and I also have the long seal which goes across the bottom. I removed them since I only drive the truck with the top off and it looks better without them. You simply slide them onto the side metal lips of the truck’s bed, no big deal. The bottom seal uses 8 screws to fasten it to the bed if you want, but it is unnecessary, looks better without it, and the screw holes have been filled and painted. Bestop Bikini with Rails that screw to the top of the windshield to hold it in place when used. I have used this setup only 2 times due to the temperature and being a sunny day…EASY installation, works and looks incredible. Heater Hose, but need to be installed though should you drive this truck in the winter. The original plastic dashboard gauge lenses that I used as templates to make new plastic dashboard gauge lenses. Part number to Anco Windshield Wipers (in case you should have to order some) Daystar Grease and 2 unused bushings 2 bags of unused electrical connectors, seals, and door hardware. Rear Latch Cover that is missing in the picture of the Cap’s Hatch Door (inside) IH Emblem (Plastic) Container of “Truck Parts”: These are the bolts to fasten the cap to the cab (which will be in place when delivered). I also use this container to hold the Stainless Steel Eye Bolts that that holds the straps of the Bikini Top. These Eye Bolts screw into the bed rail and then the Bikini Straps clip onto the eye bolts. Can of touch-up paint. This can has been around for years but is still liquid. The nice thing is that it has a code number on it for the color used. CD Player Face-Plate Holder for the Sony CD Players detachable face-plate. IH 1976 Scout Series Owner’s Manual in very good-excellent condition. A 3-Ring Binder which contains a copy of the “Line Setting Ticket” or “Build Sheet,” the Appraisal performed by Scout Connection. Comments: This vehicle is a reconditioned and customized International Harvester Scout Traveler. It has had a tremendous amount of work completed and includes performance and accessory additions. It had an engine rebuild, and body work/paint completed. It is originally from Florida, had been garage kept in Minnesota, and now has been more of a garage queen for me than the head-turner she is meant to be. It has NOT been driven in snow, ice, mud, or any other wet or detrimental conditions. An appraisal was complete in January 2003 by The Scout Connection, who specializes in Classic International Harvester Vehicles. The appraisal was hand-written using only the previous owner’s photos and information. The appraisal was based on the current market value for the vehicles location at that time and was also based on “The Standard Catalog of American Light-Duty Trucks” (Krause Publications). They placed the value of this truck at $18,000 to $20,000. This Scout was driven less than 10 miles last summer (2010) b/c I was away on military duty. I keep the truck covered with a lightweight fabric (which is different from the cover you are getting, but I will send you it as well) as it sits in the garage. I welcome questions by those interested in buying or comments pertaining to errors/omissions in this listing. No warranty is expressed or implied. Sold “As-Is.” I have tried my best to disclose all known deficiencies. I am not claiming that this truck is perfect. If you think you will be the high bidder and want an inspection, you may have the vehicle inspected through a private inspector at your time and expense, or do an on-site inspection of your own to see if the vehicle meets your expectations before end of auction/high bid. Once again: Please have pre-approved loans/ financing lined up prior to bidding. Once the total purchase price of vehicle is received, I will overnight the title. Full payment required within 7 days of auction close.