1970 Chevrolet Impala

Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

164470C188816

Gasoline

I have a beautiful 1970 Impala Custom Coupe 4-door in original Mist Green Metallic. The car is in excellent condition and I would feel confident driving it anywhere. It is currently my daily driver (although I have a company car so it doesn’t really get driven “daily”). The odometer shows 17,631 miles which, based on my mechanic’s assessment and past service records, we believe to be 117,631 original miles. The clear title I have states that this is the accurate mileage. I purchased the car three years ago from a seller in Elizabethtown, Kentucky. He indicated that he bought the car in Las Vegas, Nevada where it had been since new. I have service invoices from Las Vegas going as far back as 1999. I love the car but have two vehicles that both get 12-15 miles per gallon in addition to a 15 year-old with a Learner’s Permit so it’s time to get something a little more “practical”. I have bought and sold several cars on eBay and will attempt to describe it as accurately as I can. Body: The body is solid as you would expect from a desert car. The floor pans and trunk floor still show the original gray finish. The frame is solid with much of the original finish still intact and just mild surface rust (more discoloration than rust). Rocker panels and rear quarters are solid inside and out (see photos). The body was refinished and painted to the tune of $1,800+ in November of 2005 (I have receipts). At that time the side trim was removed and holes were filled to give it a smooth look. The paint job is now 5+ years old and is not show quality, but is still very nice as you will see in the photos. There are some very minor scratches and dings on the car but nothing significant—just what you’d expect from a five year old paint job. There is one small rust spot on the rear wing about the size of a quarter, and a couple of very small bubbles on the bottom of the rear quarter panels too small to photograph. This panel may have been repaired at some point as the paint finish on top of the quarter is a slightly different. It looks great as a driver and turns heads everywhere, but I would probably want to hand block and repaint the car to make it a show winner. All glass is good and side windows are tinted. I had a new windshield installed in May of 2010 because the original one was delaminating and had the back glass re-set at the same time. All are leak-free! Trim & Chrome: The front bumper is shiny and of good quality with a couple of small dings here and there. The back bumper is even better. The headlight buckets are starting to show their age but still shine up nicely. Rocker moldings, wheel well moldings, “Impala Custom” name badges on the side, “Chevrolet” on the trunk, and “350” emblems on the front fenders were all replaced with new ones last year. The taillight lenses were also replaced and still look new. Door handles and mirror are original but still shine up well. Door and trunk lock cylinders were replaced last fall as the original ones were getting hard to turn. The front hood lip molding is pretty dinged up and should be replaced—still looking for one of those. I just bought brand new NOS GM brow moldings for $125 that go around the headlights and still have those in the original GM packaging (see photo). Chassis: As mentioned previously the frame is straight and solid. In 2009 I did a complete front-end rebuild including tie rod ends, idler arm, end links, upper and lower ball joints, wheel bearings, shocks, and brakes. I then had the car aligned and new tires installed (currently have about 6,000 miles on the tires which were installed new in July of 2009). I also replaced the rear shocks at that time. The rims are 15” chrome Chevy rally wheels with GM dog dish center caps. Car has dual exhaust all the way back—system is in good shape with no leaks. Engine: The engine is a stock Chevy 350 that starts every time and purrs like a kitten. According to the previous owner, the original engine developed a “knock” so he had a professionally remanufactured Chevy 350 installed in November of 2006 at a cost of $2,400 (I have all receipts for this work). That engine now has about 11,000 miles on it and runs like new. It uses no oil, no coolant, and the tranny fluid looks as sweet and red as it did when I bought the car three years ago. In April of 2008 the Air Conditioning system was completely refurbished at a cost of over $600 (have receipt). The system is still R-12 and will freeze you out even in the 100+ degree Tennessee summers! As you can see from the photos, the engine is very clean although I have never steam cleaned it. I just rinse it once in a while and Armor All the hoses to keep them protected and flexible—what you see is what you get; very original. Additional work that has been done on the engine that I have receipts for includes a new alternator and wiring harness ($710 in 2/2006), rebuilt carburetor and tune-up (2/2008), all belts replaced (5/2009), power steering pump and hoses (7/2010), and a new battery (11/2010). Interior: The interior was completely redone at some point and is in very good condition. The front bench seat shows only minor wear on the outside edge where the driver gets in but no rips or tears. The back seat was perfect until a very cold day this past winter when my kids climbed in and it split on a seam (see photo). The carpet is very good and floor mats are new. All seatbelts are intact including the shoulder belts which are still attached to the headliner. The factory steering wheel was sun damaged when I bought the car so that was replaced with a new aftermarket wheel similar to what the SS cars used. The dash pad was cracked so I added a new polyurethane dash cap which I keep covered with a cloth dash mat most of the time. The headliner is flawless and door panels are nice with only slight wear on the arm rests. Aftermarket speakers have been installed in the doors and a JVC stereo with 6-disc changer works perfectly. Like I said, A/C blows ice cold. All gauges and dash lights work except for the clock (shocker). The fuel gauge works—kind of. What I mean is, when you fill the tank it only shows ¾. As you drive, the gauge drops as designed and shows accurately when empty. I have not been able to determine why it will only go up to ¾ and have even replaced two sending units in the tank. You know when you’re empty, so I guess that’s what’s important! I don’t trust “idiot lights” so I installed temperature, battery, and oil pressure gauges in the dash (again, see photos). I laid them in to look like they belong there because I hate those little under-dash bezels. All work perfectly. Please email if you have any questions or would like more photos. The car is not perfect, but is straight, clean and reliable. I recently drove the car about 200 miles into Kentucky and back and it performed flawlessly. Even with the A/C on in 100+ temps the engine never runs hot. Obviously I cannot warrantee or guarantee a 40+ year old car, but I myself would not hesitate to drive it anywhere. PLEASE do not bid if you don’t plan on following through. I have had more people lose their jobs, get sick, have a relative with cancer, or bid “accidentally” than I can count. Do the right thing and let the real buyers bid! If you have an eBay rating of less than 10, please email me prior to bidding. This is a NO RESERVE auction so bid with confidence and good luck! You will not be disappointed. Feel free to contact me with any questions or if you would like specific photos of anything. Thanks!